Author Topic: im totally crushed :( by cb550 build is now kinda dead in the water (Read 12052 times)

mystic_1 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 04, 2011, 05:41:34 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 03, 2011, 11:26:27 PM

it forms the return stop for the kick spindle aswell,youll want plenty good jb weld.

Hmm that changes things a bit imo. Still think JB will do OK there, but with the forces of the kickstarter hitting that part on return, I'd be leaning more towards welding if possible.

mystic_1

Gordon · « **Reply #26 on:** September 04, 2011, 06:22:34 AM »

Of course I could be wrong, but I really don't think spring pressure had anything to do with that breaking off. Looks to me like it may have been assembled incorrectly the last time it was taken apart and there was some interference, either by the spring or something else, and that tab was broken off when the cover was bolted back on.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 04, 2011, 06:30:35 AM »

The pawl on the kick starter shaft hits that tab from behind when you release the kick starter. You can see the pawl stick up right next to the damaged area in the third pic of the opening post.

mystic_1

bollingball · « **Reply #28 on:** September 04, 2011, 06:35:53 AM »

Looking back at the pic could you drill a hole in the case where it broke off and slip the end of the spring in the hole and leave the broken part off?

Danno · « **Reply #29 on:** September 04, 2011, 10:42:51 AM »

find a good tig welder and take the bike to him I would do it for you and not even charge you but we are 1800 miles apart bud so
find a good tig welder in your area it does not need the cases split unless there is something else wrong JB weld would do it for a while but the heat and vibration will eventually do it in if you have it tig welded it is permanent and done

this is caused by letting the kick starter fly back uncontrolled like if a foot just slips off the starter when using it usually a persons leg stops it from hitting the case hard enough to break it

Shaken · « **Reply #30 on:** September 04, 2011, 08:23:24 PM »

TIG WELD IT

bryanj · « **Reply #31 on:** September 04, 2011, 11:34:22 PM »

Sorry to dissagree with all youse folks but that engine needs to come totaly apart to check the gearbox bearings as the only reason i can see for the kickstart to force round backwards with enough force to break the casting is if it was powered by the gearbox and somewhere on here are pictures of failed roller bearings that caused kickstart wind up.

Whilst it is in bits take it to a decent alloy welder and have the piece welded back on
OR
If the box bearing is gone it may well be another bottom end anyway

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #32 on:** September 05, 2011, 10:15:33 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 04, 2011, 12:05:54 AM

did you break it yourself xsmooth?the kicker would be able to go forward as much as to touch the clutch housing,you never saw that?if the jb lets go you run the risk of a jam up if that bit gets free,leave it or have it welded properly.

apparently i did break it...... it wasnt broken when i took of the cover before then when i took it off again after kicking the #$%* out of it to start the bike, compression tests, etc etc

the thing is i know the jb weld will hold the piece for the spring to sit on. but what i noticed its also a stopper for the kick start. i have already smashed my shine twice and slipped off the kicker completely. so im pretty sure i messed it up

as you can see the kicker swings around stopping on the ledge

since i already JB welded it can i still bring it to get it welded? and if they do weld it how will they do it? tac a couple points on the side and sand it down?

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #33 on:** September 05, 2011, 10:17:20 AM »

Quote from: bryanj on September 04, 2011, 11:34:22 PM

Sorry to dissagree with all youse folks but that engine needs to come totaly apart to check the gearbox bearings as the only reason i can see for the kickstart to force round backwards with enough force to break the casting is if it was powered by the gearbox and somewhere on here are pictures of failed roller bearings that caused kickstart wind up.

Whilst it is in bits take it to a decent alloy welder and have the piece welded back on
OR
If the box bearing is gone it may well be another bottom end anyway

its on the return that the piece would've gotten damaged.

i check on my parts motor and both motors the kicker when it returns hits that bottom ledge

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #34 on:** September 05, 2011, 10:41:22 AM »

Dont you have multiple motors? And dont you live next to a motorcycle graveyard? Why not use a different motor. By the look of it you havent done anything to this motor, or have you? You could always just use a new (to you) lower case. Swap the bearings for the crank and swap everything over. If you arent going to get this welded properly you are asking for trouble. I dont like the idea of riding around wondering if a piece of metal is going to come loose and go jamming up shift linkages or getting caught up in the clutch. You have the motor out now, and probably wont be riding this season. My opinion is fix it right the first time.

dave500 · « **Reply #35 on:** September 05, 2011, 12:57:42 PM »

"as you can see the kicker swings around stopping on the ledge"

read the first line in reply #21.

bryanj · « **Reply #36 on:** September 05, 2011, 10:26:43 PM »

Yes the kicker hits on the return BUT if the gearbox bearings go IT IS FORCED round.

As to the idea of just a half case YOU CAN'T THEY ARE MATCHED PAIRS

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #37 on:** September 05, 2011, 11:44:39 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 05, 2011, 12:57:42 PM

"as you can see the kicker swings around stopping on the ledge"

read the first line in reply #21.

sorry i didnt quote you but yes you are right and because you said that i did check my other motor and it does rest on that piece

i just re reiterate what you said with a picture to the other people looking at the thread

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #38 on:** September 05, 2011, 11:47:57 PM »

i ended up JB welding it.

im going to be gental kicking my bike and make sure my foot is held firm and not miss a kick.

also the piece is quite a big sized and it was actually held on with the cover. it was only when i removed the cover to polish that it fell off and the spring flinged off

so when i change the oil ill make sure the pull the kicker cover off and check.

and since im aware of it ill make sure to keep an eye out on it

dave500 · « **Reply #39 on:** September 06, 2011, 12:52:52 AM »

you dont need to drain the oil to check ,its the clutch cover.

Kong · « **Reply #40 on:** September 06, 2011, 09:46:23 AM »

Take it to a machine shop and have it welded. It should cost you far less than $100 and you will know its done right.

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #41 on:** September 06, 2011, 01:43:29 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 06, 2011, 12:52:52 AM

you dont need to drain the oil to check ,its the clutch cover.

no no this whole thing is taking place on the kick start side. the clutch (circle thing with the disks) on in this side. there is definitely oil in here.

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #42 on:** September 06, 2011, 01:45:31 PM »

Quote from: Kong on September 06, 2011, 09:46:23 AM

Take it to a machine shop and have it welded. It should cost you far less than $100 and you will know its done right.

i thought you cant weld this crumbly white metal?

but i will run it with the jb weld and see how it is. if it dosnt work ill take it to a machine shop or drive it to my uncles and tic weld it myself

(3hr drive)

dave500 · « **Reply #43 on:** September 06, 2011, 01:54:16 PM »

there will be a little residual oil in the clutch cover area,if you have the bike on the side stand you can remover the clutch cover and not lose oil everywhere,unless its overfull,,the actual level is slightly above the pan seal and the oil will run to the left side,have you dropped the pan and looked at the primary chain?if its sloppy itll need to come apart anyway or find another bottom end.

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #44 on:** September 06, 2011, 03:36:09 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 06, 2011, 01:54:16 PM

there will be a little residual oil in the clutch cover area,if you have the bike on the side stand you can remover the clutch cover and not lose oil everywhere,unless its overfull,,the actual level is slightly above the pan seal and the oil will run to the left side,have you dropped the pan and looked at the primary chain?if its sloppy itll need to come apart anyway or find another bottom end.

ive been actually avoiding dropping the pan because i dont want to buy the gasket

BTW that vht universal aluminum looks amazing!! ill post pics of my newly sprayed engine. surprisingly enough i only had to use 3/4 can. this paint is amazing

dave500 · « **Reply #45 on:** September 06, 2011, 04:03:18 PM »

youve got the engine out of the frame,now is the time to look at the primary chain not when you have a #$%*ty noise on the first ride,ive reused those rubber gaskets over and over.
make sure its not able to touch the case like this has,you wouldnt even hear this damage,its the main oil feed and also the gallery feed across the lower case,,the chain can saw through this soft alloy and a few have,,be smart and have a look or just pretend the po just fitted a brand new primary chain.

this one looks to have just only started and is safe.

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #46 on:** September 06, 2011, 04:50:16 PM »

so the primary chain gets loose and sloppy?

ill pull the pan next weekend when i go back to my other house with the bike and check it out.

does the primary chain have a tensioner or do i have to just replace the whole thing?

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #47 on:** September 06, 2011, 06:14:54 PM »

Mine looked almost as bad as dave500's case.

Here the primary before video
CB550 Split Case Primary Chain Wear

here's the after (new chain)
VID 20110904 164323

BIG difference. Very annoying to have to do during riding season, on an other wise very well running machine. This was the ONLY reason for my rebuild. I could hear the chain hitting the noise but it would be easy to neglect. It took me a little while to realize that something serious might be going on. Then it took me a little longer to gain the motivation the pull the exhaust and oil pan to check the primary tension. Since you have your motor out just pop the oil pan and push on it with a screwdriver, you should be able to tell if its too loose or not.

Also, fyi the oil pan gasket is just a big ass oring. it should be fine to re-use

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #48 on:** September 06, 2011, 10:07:32 PM »

Quote from: WarwickE36 on September 06, 2011, 06:14:54 PM

Mine looked almost as bad as dave500's case.

Here the primary before video
CB550 Split Case Primary Chain Wear

here's the after (new chain)
VID 20110904 164323

BIG difference. Very annoying to have to do during riding season, on an other wise very well running machine. This was the ONLY reason for my rebuild. I could hear the chain hitting the noise but it would be easy to neglect. It took me a little while to realize that something serious might be going on. Then it took me a little longer to gain the motivation the pull the exhaust and oil pan to check the primary tension. Since you have your motor out just pop the oil pan and push on it with a screwdriver, you should be able to tell if its too loose or not.

Also, fyi the oil pan gasket is just a big ass oring. it should be fine to re-use

dude awsome vids

so there is a chain tensioner thing to tighten the tension right?

Greggo · « **Reply #49 on:** September 06, 2011, 10:11:52 PM »

Quote from: xsmooth69x on September 06, 2011, 10:07:32 PM

Quote from: WarwickE36 on September 06, 2011, 06:14:54 PM
Mine looked almost as bad as dave500's case.

Here the primary before video
CB550 Split Case Primary Chain Wear

here's the after (new chain)
VID 20110904 164323

BIG difference. Very annoying to have to do during riding season, on an other wise very well running machine. This was the ONLY reason for my rebuild. I could hear the chain hitting the noise but it would be easy to neglect. It took me a little while to realize that something serious might be going on. Then it took me a little longer to gain the motivation the pull the exhaust and oil pan to check the primary tension. Since you have your motor out just pop the oil pan and push on it with a screwdriver, you should be able to tell if its too loose or not.

Also, fyi the oil pan gasket is just a big ass oring. it should be fine to re-use

dude awsome vids

so there is a chain tensioner thing to tighten the tension right?

Not for the primary chain, only the cam chain.

News:

Author Topic: im totally crushed :( by cb550 build is now kinda dead in the water (Read 12052 times)

bollingball