Topic: Stripped threads on #2 float bowl - '77 750F carbs :(

[Tugboat]

Ugh....

After fighting carb problems all summer I finally bit the bullet and took them completely apart. Soaked in cleaner. Scrubbed & blew out all passages & jets with compressed air. Reassembled rack. The last bowl I put back on was for the #2 carb.. the one with the accelerator pump. Normally when they're stripped I'd just get a longer screw and an extra spring washer & nut - as I have with three other bowls. Works a charm. But this one - there's no area above the threaded hole to put a nut on the screw.

It seems to hold okay but it definitely keeps spinning when it should be seated. Am I screwed? Can you have that tapped? Or is the only option to replace that carb body and hope the accelerator pump isn't messed up on the replacement?

I'd finally ordered an airbox and new filter and new boots and was literally on the brink of having this thing back on the road....... and now this. I'm loathe to put these on as-is only to find that #2 leaks.

[BobbyR]

If the carb is off you could put a dab of JB Weld in the hole after you have cleaned it well. Use the slow drying original version, silicone lube spray the screw and thread the screw into the hole and let it sit. The Silicone will keep the screw from sticking to the JB Weld and the JB will form a new thread in the hole. It sounds like it is not completely stripped so the JB should take up the space. This is not a high torque fastener so it should be fine. 

[Spanner 1]

I think I have 3 different type screws in the K8 carbs, Tug !! Originals, longer ones with a nut on top ( ugh ! ) and a small sheet metal screw in a bad 'blind' hole ( double ugh ! )... no leaks tho'  ...so far.

[Danno]

I have had success retapping these to a slightly larger machine screw often the closest english standard since it is only slightly larger but you have to take the rack out to do it try the jb weld trick first

[bollingball]

First option tap to a #4 you need a bottom tap. Next best best JB weld

[dtmmil]

I ended up drilling mine out and tapping to 5mm threads and running full length SS allen head screws.

[TrueSpin]

My #s 1 and 2 float bowls are held in by only 2 fasteners each. The side with 2 fasteners only has one, and it's a long, skinny stainless bolt with a nut and lock washer. the side with 1 fastener is a stainless allenhead.

[jtb]

I've tapped them out to 5mm also, Tug.  I think I've also got an extra #2 body if you need.
John

[SurfinBird]

I used JB weld like BobbyR said on my #4. I don't crank it down, but it's holding.

[Tugboat]

So how much JB? About a ball bearing's worth sound right? And the silicone keeps the screw from sticking?

[BobbyR]

Yes, you really want to just use a toothpick or something to put it on the threads on the carb body. Just a coating like paint. The Silicone goes on the screw to keep the JB from sticking to it's threads. Let the JBt harden overnight, remove your screw. sand off any excess where the float bowl meets the carb. Done.