Author Topic: Case splitting question (Read 2390 times)

illrational · « **on:** September 18, 2011, 01:05:39 PM »

Does anyone have list of special tools that they needed to remove all that was needed to split case? The reason im asking is because i assume those special tools wont be oem and i could use the heads up on where to get them from

camelman · « **Reply #1 on:** September 18, 2011, 01:11:08 PM »

No special tools are needed. Just a decent socket set and a monkey wrench. You'll need a torque wrench when you reassemble. This should all be standard garage equipment.

illrational · « **Reply #2 on:** September 18, 2011, 01:20:49 PM »

dont i need weight hammer or rotor puller ?

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #3 on:** September 18, 2011, 01:41:36 PM »

Rotor puller might be handy to lighten the parts but not necessary for a case splitting. A soft gasket scraper, a roll of paper towels, some baggies for parts, marker for labeling, all standard kitchen and garage stuff. These SOHC's aren't like a new Chevy pick-up, or even a Harley, they are affordable and easy.

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2011, 01:42:27 PM »

I just split my cases on my 550. You dont NEED a slide hammer or puller for anything specifically, the primary will come out without one. You can also get the stator rotor off without one, a rubber dead blow works well.

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #5 on:** September 18, 2011, 01:55:41 PM »

Warwick, you got lucky on that rotor coming without a puller, my guess is it was not properly torqued at some point. Most are a witch with a B.

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 18, 2011, 02:54:30 PM »

Its all in the wrist. If I remember correctly I did mine with the Crankshaft out. A couple of swift blows on either side and it went clanking down on the workbench. There was a lot of drinking during my rebuild so who knows what really happened.

illrational · « **Reply #7 on:** September 18, 2011, 03:50:33 PM »

Thanks fellas....i have the top end off and im not sure if i shouldnt take a look at the bottom end before i put everything back together

illrational · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2011, 04:07:56 PM »

BTW could leave bike on center stand and rove boty tires and fork?

nokrome · « **Reply #9 on:** September 19, 2011, 07:47:10 AM »

dont forget a good impact driver for those stuck/stripped case screws,
the special clutch nut socket comes in handy too but i guess you could get away with a screwdriver and a hammer

illrational · « **Reply #10 on:** September 22, 2011, 08:10:16 PM »

i cant budge that generator rotor

MidnightLamp · « **Reply #11 on:** September 22, 2011, 08:28:08 PM »

Quote from: illrational on September 22, 2011, 08:10:16 PM

i cant budge that generator rotor

Get the puller. It's worth the cost usually, rotors can sometimes be a real pain to get off.

Don't: Pry, pull, or hammer the rotor off as you might damage/warp it.

illrational · « **Reply #12 on:** September 23, 2011, 05:37:30 AM »

Which means I now have to wait .....damn I wanted to blast this week n powdercoat next week

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #13 on:** September 23, 2011, 05:46:58 AM »

heating, or hammering, a magnet will destroy it very quickly. I proved this to my aviation students one day with a Gaus meter and a hammer.

70CB750 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 23, 2011, 05:52:46 AM »

Don't forget beer.

illrational · « **Reply #15 on:** September 23, 2011, 06:06:50 AM »

Is there an alternate readily available tool I can use from one of the automotive stores

dave500 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 23, 2011, 06:22:42 AM »

ill post a picture of the tool you need for the 500/550 rotor puller tool in the morning,the rotor itself isnt a magnet,,its a dead thing untill the field is energised,,dont hammer it though,you dont want to unbalance it.

bryanj · « **Reply #17 on:** September 23, 2011, 06:28:38 AM »

It would help if you said what bike as 750 and 500 differ

illrational · « **Reply #18 on:** September 23, 2011, 07:23:22 AM »

Sorry I thought I specified bike....its 77 cb550k ....I found a spot for getting the tools relatively cheap most were around 10$...the valve tool and bearing tools were expensive

dave500 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 23, 2011, 06:55:54 PM »

heres the puller for the rotor,,its just a 15mm fine thread bolt,it winds into the purpose made thread in the rotor,do it tight then knock it with a hammer,maybe tighten it again and one more knock and the rotor falls of the taper.

akinz · « **Reply #20 on:** September 23, 2011, 07:11:54 PM »

Dave used the same tool I did.

My Clymer manual stated in the steps of splitting the cases, you had to remove the rotor. WRONG If you are having trouble, stopped your progress because of this don't worry, you can carry on removing the bolts which hold the cases together. Just make sure you remove the one that's under the oil pan

dave500 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 23, 2011, 07:21:09 PM »

you will need to remove the rotor though to replace the main seal.

illrational · « **Reply #22 on:** September 23, 2011, 07:24:54 PM »

lmao.....one hell of a tool there dave!!!!

akinz · « **Reply #23 on:** September 23, 2011, 07:28:31 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 23, 2011, 07:21:09 PM

you will need to remove the rotor though to replace the main seal.

Yes

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Author Topic: Case splitting question (Read 2390 times)

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