Topic: 750k fender brace

[johnyvilla]

I'm looking to shore up the front end on my CB750k. If the fender is also a brace, then why are the bolt holes slightly larger than the bolts that hold it? It would seem like you would want to keep everything tight up front.

Has anyone 'collared' the fork bolts on this front end in order to stiffen things up?

[Gordon]

Can't say I know exactly what you're talking about.  I never noticed the hole sizes before, but in the times I've removed and refitted the fender on my K1 I can't remember there being any play as to where it sits.  Once it's on, it's on there solidly. 

[MCRider]

Using the flimsy fender bracket as a brace is a bit of a design compromise. Some clearance is needed in the holes to be sure when you tighten it down you're not putting the fork in a bind from a mis-aligned bracket.

I think the earlier ones were tighter tolerance and the bigger holes came later.

OCICBW

[MCRider]

Can't say I know exactly what you're talking about.  I never noticed the hole sizes before, but in the times I've removed and refitted the fender on my K1 I can't remember there being any play as to where it sits.  Once it's on, it's on there solidly.

That would reinforce my notion that the earlier ones fit tighter and the larger holes came later. Others have remarked about this, I remember reading.

[GammaFlat]

The later fenders have larger holes and rubber grommet-like/spacer/washer things.  The earlier ones are more "directly connected".  So, yes, the earlier fenders provide more rigidity. 

[johnyvilla]

My bike did not include rubber grommets, so that might help things out a little. The holes are oval otherwise I would just throw some washers on there.

[MCRider]

My bike did not include rubber grommets, so that might help things out a little. The holes are oval otherwise I would just throw some washers on there.

Oooh I forgot about the rubber grommets, that makes it even more wishy washy.

The early fork legs were not tall enough to put a proper fork brace on and have it clear the fender. I know the later ones have taller fork legs and you may look into buying a commercially available fork brace that will do a proper job.

What year/K series is yours?

[MCRider]

This guy can make you one.
http://tkat.com/forkbrace.html

[johnyvilla]

Those are the cats ass. I think at this point,  new set of tires and a stableizer will be monny spent more wisely though.

The bikes a K5.

[Really?]

I think the K5 lowers are too short for a fork brace.  The K5 does have the rubber grommets there.

If he can make one for the shorter lowers, let us know.

[MCRider]

I think the K5 lowers are too short for a fork brace.  The K5 does have the rubber grommets there.

If he can make one for the shorter lowers, let us know.

He does. Note how the clamps are separate pieces. The lugs for the bolting places for the cross piece can be made higher, so the crosspiece sits higher. His order form allows you to make your measurements and of course you can call him.

He calls it the "Special" and can make the lugs any height you need to raise the crosspiece to clear the fender/tire.

I'm not associated in any way. Someone else here introduced him to me/forum. I had a local machine shop make one for me before we knew of him. His are better, more nicely thought out.

[MCRider]

Those are the cats ass. I think at this point,  new set of tires and a stableizer will be monny spent more wisely though.

The bikes a K5.

If by stabilizer you mean a steering dampener, I would suggest the SD is the last thing to use after ewverything else is squared away. Otherwise it will simply mask other problems. Steering head bearings and fork brace would be first.

But that's just me. Carry on.   

[Really?]

I think the K5 lowers are too short for a fork brace.  The K5 does have the rubber grommets there.

If he can make one for the shorter lowers, let us know.

He does. Note how the clamps are separate pieces. The lugs for the bolting places for the cross piece can be made higher, so the crosspiece sits higher. His order form allows you to make your measurements and of course you can call him.

He calls it the "Special" and can make the lugs any height you need to raise the crosspiece to clear the fender/tire.

I'm not associated in any way. Someone else here introduced him to me/forum. I had a local machine shop make one for me before we knew of him. His are better, more nicely thought out.

I was figuring he meant the XS Standard and XS Special model.  But I see where you are going with the Special reference.   

[johnyvilla]

If by stabilizer you mean a steering dampener, I would suggest the SD is the last thing to use after ewverything else is squared away. Otherwise it will simply mask other problems. Steering head bearings and fork brace would be first.

Sorry, I did mean steering damper. I have decent aftermarket springs, shocks and tapered steering bearings on this bike, so it tracks well through the corners. I experienced a slight tank-slapper coming out of a turn to hot, (in the rain and on the track), so the damper is for more piece of mind.

[MCRider]

You'll like the dampener then. I've had a Dunstall 7 position one on mine for the time it was on the road, and when it will be on the road again. Helps in crosswinds and wind blasts from trucks etc, too.