Author Topic: new addition..1973 CB 350 G (Read 11456 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #50 on:** October 18, 2011, 09:27:36 PM »

I could never find a separate parts description for those O.E. clamps,but there really are a lot of them on rotting old CB350's across the USA. I guess I'm not sure why they made that that O.E. clamp to have that "hook around the head pipe" feature,but maybe an added safety in case the rear frame mounted bracket where to fail from years of vibration.I like the older Hondas; they are my favorite bikes,made better than they needed to be.

toytuff · « **Reply #51 on:** October 19, 2011, 05:40:35 AM »

I asked my supplier if he had ever seen any. His comment was "I have but on a 1976 CB750F and there are not to be found."

The muffler would also need this ring correct? If that is the case these mufflers do not have that.

tt

grcamna2 · « **Reply #52 on:** October 19, 2011, 05:56:23 AM »

tt,
what ring are you referring to ?

toytuff · « **Reply #53 on:** October 19, 2011, 07:04:05 AM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on October 19, 2011, 05:56:23 AM

tt,
what ring are you referring to ?

If you look at the clamp it has two (2) bosses. The clamp goes around the collar on the head pipe. Look at the picture of Larry's exhaust.

I assume the OEM muffler also has this collar to accept the clamp.

My only option at this time is to remove the collar on the head pipe.

tt

toytuff · « **Reply #54 on:** October 19, 2011, 09:06:07 AM »

Here is the end of the muffler,

And the clamp,

And here is the collar on the head pipe,

When you slide the muffler onto the head pipe it stops at the collar. (duh) The rear muffler bracket bolts to the muffler but does not slide up to mount the top portion of the muffler mount and rear foot peg. It's off about a 1/4 inch.

Let's just say that even if it did mount at the rear of the muffler the distance that the "front" of the muffler slides onto the head pipe is not deep enough for a strong mounting surface due to the collar.

It is my opinion that the collar on the "head pipe" needs to be removed thus making a stronger front mounting and lining up the rear mounts.

I am always open to suggestions. Hope this makes more sense.

tt

toytuff · « **Reply #55 on:** October 19, 2011, 09:40:29 AM »

Also wanted to add that the exhaust gaskets are almost non existent.

This would make up for some clearance but not enough I would think.

tt

toytuff · « **Reply #56 on:** October 19, 2011, 12:34:51 PM »

OK, while I think on the exhaust dilemma I thought I would get started on the front end.

Good Lord! These have been on since it rolled out of Japan. What a lot of work sliding these things out!

Who knows how long these things were out of fluid.

Soaking the reflectors as I have a much better fork ear set to install.

This morning job wore me out.

A lot of parts cleaning ahead and I shutter to think of removing the fork seals.

tt

grcamna2 · « **Reply #57 on:** October 19, 2011, 02:24:44 PM »

tt,
I see what the front of the mufflers look like alot better w/ these good pics you have posted.That ring on the stock headpipe...I agree w/ you,for the whole thing to slip fit together correctly it would be best to remove that welded on ring from the headpipes.The clamps look very high quality & remind me of the O.E. clamps on the vintage BMW "R" bikes;that will seal her up !
When you install the new fork seals,I recommend that you temporarily wrap the tops of your forks w/ nice packaging tape so that you won't damage the seals on that rust.
I have worked on a few CB350's & they all have that rust on the tops of the forks;the rain collects up inside that area & gets trapped in there...the bike must have had some outside time after all,don't feel bad, they ALL have that & I never saw one with out it.
I want to add that your CB350G here looks too nice to have spent any time outside;I imagine that rust on the tops of the fork tubes there must have been from the PO washing it down a lot...the water always gets trapped behind the fork ears. The area where the fork seals will move up & down on i.e. the "fork travel area" looks to be in excellent condition...NICE BIKE !

toytuff · « **Reply #58 on:** October 19, 2011, 02:33:54 PM »

Since the fork has a lot of rust more than likely I will use a soft wire wheel to remove it. The rubber fork boots will cover the area.

Yeah, the collar has to go.

tt

grcamna2 · « **Reply #59 on:** October 19, 2011, 04:21:40 PM »

tt,
If you were to wipe the area real well where the fork seals ride(about 5-6"from the fork seal upwards when the fork is fully extended) I wonder what the cond. of THAT area looks like ? as long as that area is w/o rust or pitted, sharp edges, etc. your seals will be fine.The area that is very badly rusted is the part that goes up inside the headlight ears.I have a pair of fork tubes that I can sell you if you need them;and the rust is VERY minimal on them in the top area where yours are extremely rust pitted.

toytuff · « **Reply #60 on:** October 19, 2011, 04:45:15 PM »

I'll see what I can do first Bill.

Say, a nice complete set of pipes and mufflers with clamps just sold for $80.00 with BIN. I put in a token bid only because I have new mufflers.

They were pretty clean but pictures do deceive.

tt

heffay · « **Reply #61 on:** October 19, 2011, 04:49:00 PM »

That thing was as top heavy as Dolly Parton... lovely bike, even without the knockers

toytuff · « **Reply #62 on:** October 19, 2011, 06:00:15 PM »

Quote from: heffay on October 19, 2011, 04:49:00 PM

That thing was as top heavy as Dolly Parton... lovely bike, even without the knockers

tt

Raul CB750K1 · « **Reply #63 on:** October 24, 2011, 07:49:26 AM »

Been there, done that....

Bought my CB350K4 with repaired mufflers, managed to buy a better-repaired set off ebay.

I did also manage to buy the muffler packing and indeed used it (goes sandwiched between the header and the muffler). Seems to be some asbestos-like material.

Finally bought the DSS replica mufflers. They look the part, but they were also too long for my bike. They wouldn't slip deep enough to align the mounting bracket with the footrest bolt.

I coudn't see any option but to cut the muffler and to extend the slot, both with the angle grinder. I knew it would leave the bare metal vulnerable to weather but I could use some zinc chromate on that. If I didn't extend the slot, the muffler would not clamp to the header irrespective of the clamp tightness.

That fixed the mounting stumbling block, but only in half. The asbestos packing would not fit between the replica muffler and the header. Not even by carefully cutting away half of the thickness.

I finally put a couple turns of adhesive aluminum foil, and once the mufflers were in place, wrapped the whole clamp area with more aluminum foil, and then clamped them together.

Come to think of it, I'm having issues with inconsistent idle and it could be because of a leaky muffler joint... but I would say the aluminum foil covered the area pretty tight.

toytuff · « **Reply #64 on:** October 24, 2011, 10:04:12 AM »

Understand your dilemma. I bought some reproduction mufflers from David Silver Spares. Very nice I might add.

I had to cut and grind the donut on the end of the head pipe. Took a while. Now the muffler slides up and lines with the rear hanging brackets.

I have yet to start the bike as the other side needs done. I might add that everything bolted up snug. Will see what happens when I start the bike but I'm pretty sure it will be a good seal. That muffler can't and won't go anywhere.

tt

toytuff · « **Reply #65 on:** October 25, 2011, 10:25:24 AM »

Got a little more done this morning. Exhaust is now installed, put on new foot peg rubber, new grip until I got to the throttle side. Throttle sleeve half way broken and will need replaced.

Installed a new seal in the gas cap. If you never attempted this little feat you have to pry out the four (4) mounting tabs inside the cap. Fun stuff.

Still waiting on several special order parts but closer to a finished bike. Master cylinder rebuild still at shop and waiting on front pads, a few gaskets etc.

Latest pictures.

tt

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #66 on:** November 03, 2011, 10:25:33 AM »

If that bike runs as good as it looks, you should have one sweet ride there.

Stu

grcamna2 · « **Reply #67 on:** November 03, 2011, 03:17:56 PM »

to toytuff,
I really need a pair of intake rubber manifolds...are you sure you don't have any more good pliable ones around ?

toytuff · « **Reply #68 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:02:18 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on November 03, 2011, 03:17:56 PM

to toytuff,
I really need a pair of intake rubber manifolds...are you sure you don't have any more good pliable ones around ?

Like I said Bill, I'm getting into my carbs now and the further I go the worse they get.

I'll be using them I'm sure. New are $40.00 each.

INSULATOR, CARB
16211-286-040

tt

grcamna2 · « **Reply #69 on:** November 04, 2011, 05:52:49 AM »

I am disabled & on a fixed income...I don't have $80..yet.
Does any one else have a good, pliable, used pair ?

toytuff · « **Reply #70 on:** November 16, 2011, 06:24:32 AM »

Thought I would post some of the latest pictures.

Still have the master cylinder to do, waiting on a center stand spring and some nice side covers with clean emblems. ( thanks to forum member

)

tt

Stev-o · « **Reply #71 on:** November 16, 2011, 06:27:26 AM »

Looks real good, tt.

How's it running?

toytuff · « **Reply #72 on:** November 16, 2011, 06:35:52 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on November 16, 2011, 06:27:26 AM

Looks real good, tt.

How's it running?

Idles and rev's real nice. Have yet to test ride it without a front brake.

It's for sale on CL but the more I look at it the more I just want to keep it. It is very clean for a 38 year old motorcycle.

I need one and/or two tank emblems. Don't match now. Bugs me.

tt

toytuff · « **Reply #73 on:** November 16, 2011, 12:55:48 PM »

Went for a little "round the neighborhood" ride. Runs just great!

No popping, backfire, etc. The idle seems off as once it sets the next time it might die. I'm thinking the cables are pretty shot being 38 years old.

Needs a good highway ride with some sea foam.

tt

Stev-o · « **Reply #74 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:55:02 AM »

You're setting the idle once warmed up, right? I tend to set my idle a little higher than the manual states to prevent it from dying.

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Author Topic: new addition..1973 CB 350 G (Read 11456 times)