Author Topic: 6mm allen bolt on bottom of fork! (Read 11654 times)

brooze72 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 30, 2011, 01:37:00 PM »

Scunny, not touching that line, lol.

Scott, oil weight will make a difference too. I'm running Belray 15, seems pretty good for my size (200lb+)

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 30, 2011, 02:12:31 PM »

Quote from: Nortstudio on September 30, 2011, 01:24:04 PM

I guess i was lucky with this one. Got it tightened no sweat.

Now, if only I could get a definitive answer on the amount of fork oil for year new Progressive springs, I'd be a happy camper. I've heard everything from 130cc to 190cc. I'm just about in the middle, maybe that will work

This is for your 550K? Use the amount recommended in your service manual. But before you install the springs, compress the fork tube fully into the sliders, and measure the oil level. There's no "mandatory" oil level with these springs. But they are made of larger diameter wire than the originals, so they'll elevate the oil level a bit. Progressive just says to be sure the oil level is at least 5" below the top of the fork tubes (springs out and tubes fully compressed). If it's closer to the top than that, you risk hydraulic lock. I agree that 15-weight seems to work well in these forks.

Stu

ekpent · « **Reply #27 on:** September 30, 2011, 02:17:15 PM »

Quote from: scunny on September 30, 2011, 01:34:01 PM

I'm concerned about BobbyR's facination with broom handles.

Bobby ?? I like them too,that's why people behave when there in my workshop.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #28 on:** September 30, 2011, 02:35:39 PM »

Thanks chickenman. I put stock in (165cc) and the level was closer to 7-8" below, based on the measurement procedure you described. So I should be safe from hydrolock, and I guess I can always add a little if they feel soft.

Based on the filth/muck that came out of the forks, I'm already in a great place. So any fine tuning will be gravy.

Appreciate all the help guys!

Hinomaru · « **Reply #29 on:** September 30, 2011, 02:59:01 PM »

Chickenman is correct, locking sealant is applied to the socket head damper bolt. Anti-sieze should not be used. For those who don’t believe it and / or need a reference, see the Honda-published shop manual supplement for clarification:

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #30 on:** September 30, 2011, 03:02:40 PM »

Quote from: Hinomaru on September 30, 2011, 02:59:01 PM

Chickenman is correct, locking sealant is applied to the socket head damper bolt. Anti-sieze should not be used. For those who dont believe it and / or need a reference, see the Honda-published shop manual supplement for clarification:

That explains the total #$%* they are to remove. Sorry, deviating from the manual on that one. Call me a rebel.

ekpent · « **Reply #31 on:** September 30, 2011, 03:07:11 PM »

Grab the Sawzall and get back in the shop King---------

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #32 on:** September 30, 2011, 04:25:22 PM »

Its all paint and engine work right now. Next is a 550 cafe build and a cute little 360T. Got 4 more 750's in line and a lead on a Magna cheap. I love motorcycles.

ekpent · « **Reply #33 on:** September 30, 2011, 07:28:48 PM »

Quote from: KingCustomCycles.com on September 30, 2011, 04:25:22 PM

Its all paint and engine work right now. Next is a 550 cafe build and a cute little 360T. Got 4 more 750's in line and a lead on a Magna cheap. I love motorcycles.

Lotta info in your head King-Glad to see you back here hitting it hard'

Nortstudio · « **Reply #34 on:** September 30, 2011, 07:38:14 PM »

Let me know how that 360 goes. I will get back to my CL360 as soon as I'm done gearing up for this trip to Alabama.

MCRider · « **Reply #35 on:** October 01, 2011, 05:21:37 AM »

Thanks for the backup Hino! That explains it. Locking sealant. And a 2 handed T handle would be just right for something in the 14ft lb area.

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #36 on:** October 01, 2011, 05:37:52 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on October 01, 2011, 05:21:37 AM

And a 2 handed T handle would be just right for something in the 14ft lb area.

Right. Tighten till it strips, then back off a half turn.

Here's a good excuse to buy that torque wrench you've always wanted.

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 01, 2011, 05:40:14 AM »

Quote from: Nortstudio on September 30, 2011, 07:38:14 PM

I will get back to my CL360 as soon as I'm done gearing up for this trip to Alabama.

Going to Barber? I'd say see you there, if we knew what each other looked like. Have a safe trip. I'm riding out of here tomorrow at dawn.

Stu

Nortstudio · « **Reply #38 on:** October 01, 2011, 05:44:55 AM »

I will only be getting down there for Saturday, but I will try to post something up on the forum to see if we can't get a meeting place going down there.

Ride safe!

MCRider · « **Reply #39 on:** October 01, 2011, 06:04:21 AM »

Quote from: chickenman_26 on October 01, 2011, 05:37:52 AM

Quote from: MCRider on October 01, 2011, 05:21:37 AM
And a 2 handed T handle would be just right for something in the 14ft lb area.
Right. Tighten till it strips, then back off a half turn. Here's a good excuse to buy that torque wrench you've always wanted.

Works for me!

PS: But really, if you'll notice, the guy in the manual isn't using a torque wrench. Hmmmm. Don't get me wrong, I own a torque wrench and know how to use it. But you see what i mean? The manual simply says use the same tool to install that you used to remove. I've got a fair amount of experience (as I'm guessing you do to) and would bet i could easily put a bolt in at 14ft lbs with a T handle, +/- 1 ft lb or 2, which is well within range.

So what part of the manual do we follow and what part do we not? Such is the nature of manuals. Robert Pirsig who wrote Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance said in a small part of the book, that technical manuals are often written by people who are way down the food chain from those who should be writing/editing the manual. He was a Philosophy major who edited technical manuals, so he has some experience.

I would agree that "best practices" would have had that manual editor take the T handle out and replace it with a torque wrench, and the torque spec.

Hinomaru · « **Reply #40 on:** October 01, 2011, 08:38:27 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on October 01, 2011, 05:21:37 AM

Thanks for the backup Hino! That explains it. Locking sealant. And a 2 handed T handle would be just right for something in the 14ft lb area.

You're welcome MC.

In summary ... It's probably a safe bet that anytime locking sealant is specified, it's a going to be critical fastener. Then a (calibrated) torque wrench should be used to properly finish the job. We used to call that "good engineering practice" in the maritime world.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #41 on:** October 01, 2011, 09:08:37 AM »

Just wanted to say thanks again folks. Today I have been riding a bit more than I got a chance to te past few days, since the fork rebuild. Really a big difference. Especially here on te streets of Brooklyn, where they have yet to figure out pavement

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #42 on:** October 01, 2011, 10:41:30 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on October 01, 2011, 06:04:21 AM

PS: But really, if you'll notice, the guy in the manual isn't using a torque wrench. Hmmmm.

If you follow the genesis of service manuals, especially Honda's, you'll notice a huge difference occur around the 1980 models, and it just gets better from then on. Much more in the way of technical specs and details of specific procedures. To look at a 1970 manual and decide that some task doesn't require precision because the manual shows some gorilla tightening something with a pipe wrench can lead to a wrong conclusion. Like looking in an old medical journal and concluding the best way to cure a cold is to bleed the patient with leeches. Best to use the best and latest methods available. Just saying...

Stu

MCRider · « **Reply #43 on:** October 01, 2011, 01:28:33 PM »

Quote from: chickenman_26 on October 01, 2011, 10:41:30 AM

Quote from: MCRider on October 01, 2011, 06:04:21 AM
PS: But really, if you'll notice, the guy in the manual isn't using a torque wrench. Hmmmm.
If you follow the genesis of service manuals, especially Honda's, you'll notice a huge difference occur around the 1980 models, and it just gets better from then on. Much more in the way of technical specs and details of specific procedures. To look at a 1970 manual and decide that some task doesn't require precision because the manual shows some gorilla tightening something with a pipe wrench can lead to a wrong conclusion. Like looking in an old medical journal and concluding the best way to cure a cold is to bleed the patient with leeches. Best to use the best and latest methods available. Just saying...

Stu

That's interesting to know, I don't have that perspective. My life in motorcycle shops ended around 1976. Pirsig wrote Zen, etc in 1970 (published 1974).

I appreciate your comments. And as mentioned I do own and use a torque wrench. Usually.

I've got a Honda shop manual for my 1988 Hawk GT. I'll bet it has the flavor you describe. I haven't looked in it in many years.

cameron · « **Reply #44 on:** October 01, 2011, 03:09:05 PM »

(88 Hawk GT /drool)

72500john · « **Reply #45 on:** October 01, 2011, 05:53:55 PM »

heres a neat trick for getting stuck/buggered bolts,screws and such out. use a little vavle grinding compound on your bit, wrench or socket. yes it works. has for me for 25 years.

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #46 on:** October 02, 2011, 04:39:48 AM »

Quote from: 72500john on October 01, 2011, 05:53:55 PM

heres a neat trick for getting stuck/buggered bolts,screws and such out. use a little vavle grinding compound on your bit, wrench or socket. yes it works. has for me for 25 years.

+1 and I would add that the downward force on the phillips head is much more important then the twisting force. Not so much with allen of hex heads.

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 02, 2011, 05:32:07 AM »

Given the nature of the fork bottom bolts on these old bikes to become stuck, I often use a heat gun on them before even trying to loosen them. Saves a lot of time, frustration, and fastener damage.

Stu

xruss · « **Reply #48 on:** October 02, 2011, 06:09:42 AM »

Any guidance on where to get a replacement fork bottom bolt for the 550?

BobbyR · « **Reply #49 on:** October 02, 2011, 11:34:56 AM »

Quote from: ekpent on September 30, 2011, 02:17:15 PM

Quote from: scunny on September 30, 2011, 01:34:01 PM
I'm concerned about BobbyR's facination with broom handles.

Bobby ?? I like them too,that's why people behave when there in my workshop.

I always believe in using any tool available for the task at hand.

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Author Topic: 6mm allen bolt on bottom of fork! (Read 11654 times)

Hinomaru

KingCustomCycles.com

KingCustomCycles.com

Hinomaru

72500john

KingCustomCycles.com