DIRECTIONS
The preparation products, though non-toxic, should be handled
with latex gloves and eye protection.
1.
PREPARATION: Empty tank of all fuel and rinse out with
clean water; remove fuel petcock, fl oat, fi lters, fi ttings, etc. Seal
up those openings in the tank with duct tape or cork to keep the
solutions in the tank when you clean, prep and seal the tank.
2.Outside painted surface of your tank should be protected
from preparation and sealing products with soft rags or other
suitable protection.
3.Pour in
POR-Strip and agitate the tank to cover all the
surfaces, keep stripper in the tank for a minimum of 15 mins, but
no longer than 1 hour. Use warm water to clean and fl ush the
tank of stripper and any loose sealant.
4.
MARINE CLEAN: This product cleans varnish and rust
out of the tank. It leaves the metal surface alkaline and must be
treated with METAL READY to create an acidic surface for the
sealant to stick to. GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION SHOULD
BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.
Mix your quart of MARINE CLEAN with 1 quart of VERY WARM
(not scalding hot) water. Extremely hot water could melt the
adhesive on the duct tape. Note The higher temperature of the
water helps to activate the chemical process of the cleaner.
Pour the mixture into the tank, shake vigorously, and “roll” the
tank around to ensure the cleaner gets to all inside surfaces
for a minimum of 20 minutes. Now empty the solution from the
tank and rinse it out with water.
5.
METAL READY: This product makes the metal surface acidic
and removes rust, which is necessary for the sealer to
effectively bond to the surface.
Pour the entire bottle of Metal Ready into the tank. NOTE: Tank
should be empty of rinsing water but does not have to be dry
before using Metal Ready.
Roll the tank around to ensure it coats all surfaces for a
minimum of 20 minutes. Place the tank in different positions
every half hour until the entire inside of the tank has been
treated with Metal Ready. Metal Ready should not be in the
tank longer than 2 hours. Rinse the tank thoroughly with WARM
– not scalding hot – water several times and drain it thoroughly
(low spots in tanks collect water so be sure to roll tank around
to get as much water out as possible).
In order to get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air
into it because no tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The
only way to do this job is to use forced air. This can be
accomplished by using a hair dryer or hot air gun.
TANKS
MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING.
THE SEALER WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.No shortcuts, please. If any moisture is present in the tank
when you pour in the sealer,
IT WILL NOT WORK PROPERLYand all your hard work will be wasted.
NOTE: Once the metal is treated, it can fl ash rust. Though the
coating is designed to bond with any new fl ash rust, ideally
you’ll want to perform the forced air drying promptly after
draining the tank, and coat the tank with sealant soon after
drying it.
lazy way to dry
5.
SEALER: (open the POR-15 Sealer and stir until a uniform
color is achieved. CAUTION! Pour entire contents of can
into the tank. Roll the tank SLOWLY to ensure it coats the insides
uniformly. In tanks with seams, and with low areas below the
opening through which you are draining the sealant (typically the
petcock hole) the sealant will puddle. Take great care to ensure
you’ve drained out the excess. Any pooled material can cause
you trouble later.
IMPORTANT! This is a very strong and durable coating. Take
care to immediately clean surfaces on which you may have
spilled the sealer. Any sealer remaining on painted surfaces will
become permanent. Any excess sealer must be cleaned from
screw hole threads for the petcock before it dries. A clean soft
rag can be twisted into the screw holes to clean the material out.
A Q-Tip is also effective for this job.
6.
FINAL NOTESFollow directions on sealer can and let cure for at least 96 hours
(4 days) before pouring in fuel.
total cost around $55
