Author Topic: WTF!!?? HELP!! (Read 13099 times)

brycegp · « **Reply #25 on:** October 13, 2011, 02:26:46 PM »

SO i was wrong...if I put it in gear and pull the clutch IN....the rear wheel will turn...but its very labored. It feels like when the brake is being applied. But there is no sound of grinding gears or anything coming from the gear box...

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 13, 2011, 04:41:22 PM »

Nah P.J. your a big mouth behind a keyboard. Mind your manners.

brycegp · « **Reply #27 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:28:41 PM »

Quote from: crazypj on October 13, 2011, 04:22:13 PM

Quote from: Greggo on October 13, 2011, 09:01:46 AM
Quote from: crazypj on October 13, 2011, 08:50:58 AM
Everything is fixable, just needs money or skill (or both)
You were going to sell a bike without checking the oil first?

I really can't be sympathetic
Sorry, if you were trying to help someone out and it happened I would be
If you were trying to make a quick buck....................................
Woe is you, karma is a #$%*

Does selling one's bike now translate to trying to make a 'quick buck'?

If all you did was throw some clubman bars on and make it look shiny it does.
If chain was run too tight output shaft bearing could have broken or seized?
If you fitted 'O' ring chain you could have destroyed crankcase?
Clutch thrust washer could be in wrong place?
You may have been screwed over by whoever you bought it off?

BTW,
Warwick, I just say what others think but are too 'PC' to mention.
Just stick to your dog suit

JP, please stop commenting on my thread. Just go back to hunting gators and stop hijacking. I'm here to find a solution to a problem not debate anything with you.

Respectfully, GET OFF MY THREAD!

brycegp · « **Reply #28 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:31:36 PM »

I pulled the valve cover off and here are the pics. I don't really know what to look for. What can i troubleshoot from these pics?

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:41:16 PM »

The chain is still there so that's 1 cause eliminated. I would pull the ignition cover off and in gear, on the center stand, rotate the rear wheel and try and line up TDC 1/4 T" and then note the location of the timing marks on the cam shaft. The mark should be in line with the top of the head on either side (doesn't matter which.) This eliminates valve timing, Pulling all 4 plugs will make rotation easier. DONT force it, if there IS a clearance issue it will become apparent as all of a sudden it wont keep rotating. If its a ring seizure issue it will be stiff and reluctant to move basically the whole rotation of the crank.

brycegp · « **Reply #30 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:53:29 PM »

Quote from: WarwickE36 on October 13, 2011, 05:41:16 PM

The chain is still there so that's 1 cause eliminated. I would pull the ignition cover off and in gear, on the center stand, rotate the rear wheel and try and line up TDC 1/4 T" and then note the location of the timing marks on the cam shaft. The mark should be in line with the top of the head on either side (doesn't matter which.) This eliminates valve timing, Pulling all 4 plugs will make rotation easier. DONT force it, if there IS a clearance issue it will become apparent as all of a sudden it wont keep rotating. If its a ring seizure issue it will be stiff and reluctant to move basically the whole rotation of the crank.

After I took off the valve cover, the rockers came with it. So doesn't that mean that none of the valves are depressed...all are close...so there should be no clearance issues with the valve cover off. The rockers aren't there to push any of the valves open?

WarwickE36 · « **Reply #31 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:55:42 PM »

YES, sorry, I forgot to mention put the valve cover back on a torque it to spec.

scottly · « **Reply #32 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:58:32 PM »

BE CAREFUL PUTTING THE VALVE COVER BACK ON!!!!! YOU WILL BEND VALVES IF YOU DO IT WRONG!!!!
(sorry for shouting...)

brycegp · « **Reply #33 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:58:58 PM »

Quote from: WarwickE36 on October 13, 2011, 05:41:16 PM

...rotate the rear wheel and try and line up TDC 1/4 T"...

the crank will not move AT ALL...even after removing the valve cover. Doesn't this eliminate the "piston hitting the valve" question? If that was the problem, shouldn't I be able to rotate the crank with all the valves closed?

I have penetrating oil in the cylinders trying to free them...so I can't line up TDC at this point.

scottly · « **Reply #34 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:03:45 PM »

Quote from: brycegp on October 13, 2011, 02:26:46 PM

SO i was wrong...if I put it in gear and pull the clutch IN....the rear wheel will turn...but its very labored. It feels like when the brake is being applied. But there is no sound of grinding gears or anything coming from the gear box...

This is probably normal drag in the clutch. Does the rear wheel spin freely in neutral?

brycegp · « **Reply #35 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:07:36 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 13, 2011, 06:03:45 PM

Does the rear wheel spin freely in neutral?

yes.

FuZZie · « **Reply #36 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:14:21 PM »

Does the rear wheel spin freely in first with the clutch "fully" engaged?

mrjack55 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:26:34 PM »

Quote from: brycegp on October 13, 2011, 05:58:58 PM

Quote from: WarwickE36 on October 13, 2011, 05:41:16 PM
...rotate the rear wheel and try and line up TDC 1/4 T"...

the crank will not move AT ALL...even after removing the valve cover. Doesn't this eliminate the "piston hitting the valve" question? If that was the problem, shouldn't I be able to rotate the crank with all the valves closed?

I have penetrating oil in the cylinders trying to free them...so I can't line up TDC at this point.

Removing the valve cover may not eliminate the valve to piston question. If you floated a valve, it smacked the piston and may have bent in the combustion chamber. You might not be able to see it from the top. Although, I have to think that there would be a pretty audible thunk if you floated a valve at idle. I don't know Bryce, you may be pulling that motor after all. Even if it's a seized cylinder that frees up with lube. I know I'd want to make sure there's no internal damage. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.

scottly · « **Reply #38 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:28:10 PM »

Quote from: brycegp on October 13, 2011, 06:07:36 PM

Quote from: scottly on October 13, 2011, 06:03:45 PM
Does the rear wheel spin freely in neutral?

yes.

Don't worry about it. It also means there is no problem with the primary shaft bearing. Looks like the top end was getting oil. For the time being, leave the cam cover off, and the spark-plugs out. Next thing I would try is removing the alternator cover and turning the crank directly with the rotor bolt. If it will move a teeny tiny bit back and forth, then stops solid, I would guess piston seizure.

brycegp · « **Reply #39 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:44:39 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 13, 2011, 06:28:10 PM

Next thing I would try is removing the alternator cover and turning the crank directly with the rotor bolt.

Good new OR bad news...?? The crank turns VERY easily with the rotor bolt.

Good news is that the motor isn't seized after all!!
What's the bad news???

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #40 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:52:21 PM »

Your kickstarter could be knackered.

scottly · « **Reply #41 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:00:56 PM »

That's very good news!

Next, try putting the trans in gear, and see if you can still turn the crank. The rear wheel should be turning with it.

Don R · « **Reply #42 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:05:59 PM »

When you turn the motor from alternator side does the cam turn also? Does the points end of the crank turn too? Just not understanding what has happened yet.

Eydugstr · « **Reply #43 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:18:12 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 13, 2011, 09:13:14 AM

Will the motor turn with the spark-plugs removed? You may have had a hydro-static lock, where a cylinder filled up with gas.

+1...That was my first thought. Haven't heard of it with CB's but my other bike is a first generation Kawasaki Concours and that happens very often...What can happen is that a leaking float valve + suction from the piston on the intake stroke will fill a cylinder with gas.

EDIT NOTE...sorry didn't realize this thread had a second page already. Glad to hear the crank turns free.

brycegp · « **Reply #44 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:28:10 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 13, 2011, 07:00:56 PM

That's very good news! Next, try putting the trans in gear, and see if you can still turn the crank. The rear wheel should be turning with it.

@scottly - dropped it into 1st...turn the crank via the rotor bolt...it turned easily and the rear wheel turned with it.

@Don R - yes the cam turns when I turn the crank. And I haven't pulled the points cover yet.

Sounds like my kicker spindle is gumming up the works...

Don R · « **Reply #45 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:32:09 PM »

It might not be so bad,

scottly · « **Reply #46 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:34:24 PM »

Yeah, sounds like your kicker is knackered, as Dukie suggested. My guess is that the battery was run down when you tried the electric starter, leading you to believe the motor had seized.

FuZZie · « **Reply #47 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:35:14 PM »

Quote from: FuZZie on October 13, 2011, 06:14:21 PM

Does the rear wheel spin freely in first with the clutch "fully" engaged?

brycegp · « **Reply #48 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:45:22 PM »

Quote from: FuZZie on October 13, 2011, 07:35:14 PM

Quote from: FuZZie on October 13, 2011, 06:14:21 PM
Does the rear wheel spin freely in first with the clutch "fully" engaged?

if I put it in first...pull in the clutch...the rear wheel will spin...but not what I'd call "freely". its labored...

FuZZie · « **Reply #49 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:51:28 PM »

check your clutch cable it may not be fully engaging (ie: stretched).

News:

Author Topic: WTF!!?? HELP!! (Read 13099 times)

mrjack55