Topic: Frozen Clutch

[DaveInTexas]

70' CB 750

The handle moves normally but does not disengage the engine from the transmission.
Bike has not driven for a long time, previous owner says the plates get glued together from long term disuse.
He says open the case, take out the plates and pull them apart by hand.
Agree?
Other ideas?

Thanks
Dave
USA

[GroovieGhoulie]

Pull the clutch in and start kicking the kickstarter like mad, or pull in the clutch and push the bike.  Both supposedly should work.

[2wheels]

This same thing happened to my 1970 CB 750 several years ago.  I used to start the engine, get the bike rolling down a hill, pop it into gear, and drive around with the clutch lever pulling in, until the clutch plates let go.  Not exactly safe but it works.
Eventually I had to disassemble the clutch (special tool required) and I replaced the clutch plates.  It may have been enough to clean the fiber clutch plates, but I just put new ones in.
It's been fine since.

[SuperVel]

I have a 77 750F I have had since new.  If I let it sit and get cold (ambient temp 80f even) I have allways had to put the trans in gear and jump on the kick starter.  If I tried to put it in gear without breaking it free, it would jump forward and stall.  When it was hot after a ride, it worked like the manufacturer promissed.  Maybe I just used the wrong type of oil.  I replaced the stock unit with a Barnett clutch back in the 80's and had the same trouble.  Now I notice that some of the oil containers have "wet clutch friendly" printing on them. 

I'll be watching for anything helpful on this subject.

Take Care

Marty

[TwoTired]

Okay, here is something to try.

A)  Put the bike into gear.  Pull in or wire the clutch lever to the hand grip.  Rock the bike fore and aft 'til the clutch plates let go.
Maybe add weight onto the bike if the tire skids.

Variations:
B) Run the bike in neutral (also with clutch wired against bar grip) to circulate fresh warm oil onto the clutch plates.  Fan on motor to keep from overheating.
Stop motor and try A above.

C) With clutch lever wired against bar grip, allow the bike to sit over night.  This gives time for the oil to seep between clutch plates.  Repeat A, and possibly B.

D) Take it apart and pry the little sum#$%*es away from each other.   

Cheers,

[DaveInTexas]

I am thinking I have to get the engine to go a different speed than the rear tire to break them free (right now they are acting as one).
As such I think I will drive along with the clutch pulled in, and lock up the rear tire. 
That would provide the best possible force between two opposing plates. 
I will do it at 4mph, not highway speeds!

[scunny]

Don't know if it's the same but if I leave my Lada Niva sitting too long the clutch sticks. I just start it in gear and drive down the road ,kill the motor and she grinds to a halt, do this a few times and we're away woo hoo

[KB02]

I've got a '80 Kawi 550 that I am working on right now that has the same problem (no kickstart like the Honda's, though). I'll have to try some of these things out.

If I do end up having to pull it apart and pry them off, is it safe to put them back in? Let's be honest, I'm on a tight budget on this one, but also don't want to have to do this again, if you know what I mean.

[TwoTired]

If I do end up having to pull it apart and pry them off, is it safe to put them back in? Let's be honest, I'm on a tight budget on this one, but also don't want to have to do this again, if you know what I mean.

There's an old west saying:
"You can tell who the pioneers are by the arrows sticking out their backs!"

I say let visual examination be your guide once you get it apart.

Cheers,