Topic: Lowering K7 (front)

[anotherCB]

What is the best way to lower a K7 in the front (besides pushing the fork tubes thru)? Is there another way than cutting the springs? I haven't been inside the fork yet so I am not sure what to expect.....I plan on getting shorter shocks in the rear.

Thanks a lot for any help!

[Really?]

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Frame%20Page.htm

[anotherCB]

Thanks for the link, I wasn't aware that CycleX was that affordable. I might as well get the lowering set from them, including the shocks. If I get the shorter tubes, I assume I can use my original springs, can't I?

[Really?]

Sorry for just the link. I was at work at quite busy.

With regards to the springs, dunno. I feel I got lucky and the springs were the right length.  You might need to cut them, have them cut or made.

I don't know how low you are intending to go but know what you are getting into. You don't really want to go so low in the front that the fender or tire hits the header. The bike will handle different and cornering clearance is reduced.

I have the cyclex -2s and slid up the trees an inch and a quarter as well as running the shorties out back. I could not walk up to 20wt fork oil so I am using 15wt but find that to be fine for me. It is a tad harder and a tad bouncier. My goal here was to try and reduce the travel of the forks on a hard bump.

Note that the -2s may only be -1 depending on the year I think.

The exhaust can get quite low as well depending on the way the pipes go into the collector. Cyclex makes a 4-2-1 that is flat on the bottom versus the square collector.

I did lace a 16x3 rim on the back. To me the stock 18 was too tall and the tire scraped the bolts sticking through the fender.

The kickstand will become long. The 750 I ride stands almost straight up and will only rest on the stand with the bars turned to the left. Straight or to the right and the bike will fall over. I still need to get it cut. 

There are a couple pics of Satin in my sig to give an idea of how I went with it.

[crazypj]

Unless your 'vertically challenged' lowering 750 is a bad idea in my opinion.
 It's a pretty wide motor and things drag on the floor pretty easy when stock, lowering it makes it drag easier

[anotherCB]

Thanks guys.

Crazypj, I am not going crazy in the corners, so I believe I should be ok with clearence. And yes, I am vertically chanllenged, at 6'2'' I produce too much drag which slows me down 

TipperT, that's good info. My exhaust is the Yashimura copy and I don't think clearence at the bottom will be an issue. I like the looks of your bike "Satin" (and the blue one as well). What I probably do is to get only the shorty shocks first and push the forks through even if I have to take the handlebars off so that I get at least an idea about clearences and looks. If I don't like it, it is easy to go back.

Attached is a pic on how things look right now.

[crazypj]

At 6'2" I would consider raising rear end and fitting stronger fork springs to get more clearance. (I seem to remember the K7 being particularly 'soft'?)
If you want to lower front for 'quicker' steering, raising the rear has the same effect.
 Lowering bike by 1" or so, reduction in drag is so minimal as to be meaningless (when drag coefficient is around 1.5~2.0 for unfaired motorcycle with 'loose' riding gear)
 I don't know your skill level but it is easy to go into corners 'too hot' and run out of ground clearance, even if you never intended to.
Even if you ride slow and 'careful' you never know when you may NEED the extra clearance, it's when something goes wrong you find out
 In my opinion, the only time to lower a bike is when your drag racing

[anotherCB]

Main reason I want to lower the bike is for looks. I ride around the Hill Country, but don't get too crazy, I am coming from riding a Harley for the last 5 years (with scraped footboards !

[Don R]

The fender issue happens at low speed when the wheel is turned hard and a bump happens check for clearance when turning. Headers vary widely.

[crazypj]

I had forgotten about that problem.
I've seen/had several stock bikes with dents in fender just from hard braking (750F2 was particularly bad as forks would 'bend' back far enough for dust seals to stop wiping the tubes)
 Going straight when you expected to turn is a pretty 'interesting' sensation 

[Really?]

I like that bike ACB!  I can see where going up the trees can be limited with your bars.  Wonder if running clip-ons temporarily would be good to test with and maybe a cheaper alternative.  And it would allow you go up the trees a bit more.

[anotherCB]

TT, that would definitely be an option, also I just checked and I can move them up another inch or so without changing the bars...we'll see. So maybe I do that and cut a piece of wood and use it in the back instead of the shocks (no, I won't ride it!) to see whether I like the looks.