Topic: Finally done rebuilding only to find more problems.

[INSANE REINDEER]

After getting my bike together today, I filled it up with gas, and started it. It cranked right up but I noticed gas pouring out carb 1 and 2 but only from the drain screws not the hoses. Upon father inspection I found it seems to be coming from the "T" where the gas line goes in. Question is where would I get the parts to rebuild those pieces? I'm not sure what is all in that area since that is the one of the two ONLY parts that I haven't taken apart on my bike. Since the carbs work fine (well mostly) I don't feel the need to buy a whole rebuild kit.  What is the parts between the carbs? Just ORINGS?

Next my master cylinder is leaking out the handle side. Since this is the second ONLY part I haven't touched, it had to break as well. I was wondering if any one has tried this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-HONDA-CB400-CB450-CB550-NIGHTHAWK-/120799321284?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c20335cc4

and could I use this as a replacement?

I know I could get a rebuild kit as another option but which choice would be better?

My bike as its finely done with a very cheap rebuild. (Gauges are not bolted down yet and taillight is still off gotta get new bolts)

[HondaMan]

After getting my bike together today, I filled it up with gas, and started it. It cranked right up but I noticed gas pouring out carb 1 and 2 but only from the drain screws not the hoses. Upon father inspection I found it seems to be coming from the "T" where the gas line goes in. Question is where would I get the parts to rebuild those pieces? I'm not sure what is all in that area since that is the one of the two ONLY parts that I haven't taken apart on my bike. Since the carbs work fine (well mostly) I don't feel the need to buy a whole rebuild kit.  What is the parts between the carbs? Just ORINGS?

Next my master cylinder is leaking out the handle side. Since this is the second ONLY part I haven't touched, it had to break as well. I was wondering if any one has tried this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-HONDA-CB400-CB450-CB550-NIGHTHAWK-/120799321284?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c20335cc4

and could I use this as a replacement?

I know I could get a rebuild kit as another option but which choice would be better?

My bike as its finely done with a very cheap rebuild. (Gauges are not bolted down yet and taillight is still off gotta get new bolts)

Yep, the O-rings are 8x2mm size, 4 per tee.
The master cylinder: you can get rebuild kits from Z1 Enterprises.

[Tugboat]

When I did my 500's carbs recently I was able to order just the o-rings for the fuel t's + float drain plug o-rings + float bowl o-rings on ebay (as a kit).. turns out they were from the Netherlands and took a while to get here but all-in-all it was cheaper than buying the whole kits. Czech it out.

[MCRider]

I think that MC would work fine, IMO. Of course you would miss out on the experience of rebuilding one. 

[Kevin D]

Looks great Reindeer, dont let the brake fluid get on your newly painted parts. I did the MC rebuild successfully with a kit - getting the circlip out is a PIA needing long nosed snap ring pliers - but no problems since.

That silver is a throwback color to the 60's Hondas.

[Rigid]

Beautiful bike.................let the orings soak in fuel a couple of days, rotate the t to find the "sweet" spot where it will seal.  Your rubber dried out during the rebuild and shrank.  It will probably reseal.

[Hondawggie]

After getting my bike together today, I filled it up with gas, and started it. It cranked right up but I noticed gas pouring out carb 1 and 2 but only from the drain screws not the hoses. Upon father inspection I found it seems to be coming from the "T" where the gas line goes in. Question is where would I get the parts to rebuild those pieces?

When I see that I go up to the petcock and see if the gas is dripping down the hose from the petcock down to the T.  I rebuilt the petcock on another bike a couple weeks back and did not tighten everything enough and gas followed the hose right down.  Also it may just *look* like carbs 1 and 2 because with the bike on the sidestand, carbs 3 and 4 are higher up than 1 and 2, and gravity will not let gas flow upward but will flow the gas downward.   Also check for a leak in the hose.   In this particular petcock I had 2 problems -- the two bolts securing the petcock to the tank were loose and the two petcock faceplate screws were loose and after tightening them up no more gas running down.

It is 100% worth checking for gas moisture higher up first before pulling the carbs because changing the T orings might not fix it.   

I mention this because you said:

"it seems to be coming from the "T" where the gas line goes in....that is the one of the two ONLY parts that I haven't taken apart on my bike"

I do not see why, if you did not remove the T at all from #2 and #3 carbs, the seals there would decide *at that time* to fail, unless it was leaking at the T before and you didn't notice it.   If you didn't mess with the T and left it plugged in to carbs #2 and #3 I doubt it would just up and fail on you out of the blue.

[INSANE REINDEER]

Thanks for the comments on the bike. The silver was actually a color my neighbor had left over from painting his 69 truck that color so he painted it with the leftover and did it for free. I can't complain. I like is much better than the red/black before.

Second I decided not to buy that MC because I found out they were made in China and read some reviews that they don't last. The master cylinder was recently rebuilt within the last year and before I took the bike apart it wasn't leaking but not only is it leaking out of the lever side, it is also leaking out of the cap (its tightly on and has white seal and rubber) as well as every other fitting on the brakes. So I have decided to do away with the Y fitting and do a sold SS brake line. I just can not find a good master cylinder to replace the one that is on there. I have read use a CBR or a GSXR MC but I cannot find a decent price on one. Any other suggestions on a new MC or can someone point me into a good direction for one.

As for the Carb T, I went ahead and ordered O-Rings for Rocketseals that I read in a another post. They were 68 cents each so ill see if it is my problem. I think it is because it DID slow down but it did not completely stop. I think it is what rigid said as I let them dry out and it caused the leak. Same for the MC lever side, as for the cap leaking I had no idea as everything seems in good shape.

I did make sure to lean it back and forth to make sure it wasn't coming from somewhere else and I could only get it to drip from 1 and 2. As for the whole petcock things I never did check that but I will remember to do that when I have a chance. That might actually be the problem. If it is I guess I have O-rings for when I need them.

Sadly I found this picture which is the only picture I had of the bike before this. Spary painted EVERYTHING with a giant black spot down the tank were gas had leaked out (cant see it in the pic)

And the tag that it last had before I got it.....

I was born in 91...

[Hondawggie]

"As for the whole petcock things I never did check that but I will remember to do that when I have a chance. That might actually be the problem."

The tip-offs about leaking from higher-up, such as a small tear in the gas hose at the petcock, or a loose petcock that's leaking, were the following points:


1)   "I noticed gas pouring out carb 1 and 2 but only from the drain screws not the hoses."

2)  "Upon father inspection I found it seems to be coming from the "T" where the gas line goes in."   -- i.e. gravity pulled the gas down to the carb bowls from the supply tube at the T.

Then I noticed in your pictures -- the bike's on the sidestand in all of them, and not on the main stand.  And then you can see -- there is no main stand.   So chances are you were analyzing the gas drip problem -- when the bike is on the sidestand -- when carbs #1 and #2 were angled down and below carbs #3 and #4.   If you can, put the bike level, completely wipe dry the gas line from the petcock and around the T.  Then use a rubber band and paper towel wrapped around the gas line just above the 'T'. Then turn the gas 'On' and with the bike level, see if you have a leak on either side of the T, at carb  #2 or carb #3.   Then check the paper towel.  If the paper towel is wrapped around the gas hose just above the T and it's wet -- see if the gas hose has a crack right at the T.  If not -- the paper towel got wet from gas flowing down the tube from the petcock.

Here is one other thing to check on your petcock. 

- pull the hose right at the petcock leaving the petcock's supply nipple exposed
- turn the petcock to 'off' or if it's a vacuum-activated petcock just leave it in Res or On.
- then make sure there is no gas dripping out of the petcock's supply nipple
- if there's gas dripping out the supply nipple, your petcock needs to be disassembled and cleaned or a petcock rebuild kit bought and installed.

[INSANE REINDEER]

Alright thanks. The bike never came with a center stand and I have never really thought to replace it.

As for your techniques I will try them and see what happens. I am 99% sure it is not leaking out of the petcock but it may be leaking from the hoses at the petcock. I hope so since I would rather not remove those carbs again.

[Rigid]

Hondawedgie, Petcock fixation, dude, let it go. It leaks where he said it leaks.  Pushing a false presumption into the ground is poor troucleshooting form. He already ordered the orings for the "T".  If that doesn't fix it he is a good enough wrench to just move on to another oring.

[Toxic]

Great looking bike.  A couple of minor issues and you are done.

I know you said the gauges are not bolted in place but you know the tach goes on the right

[Hondawggie]

Hondawedgie, Petcock fixation, dude, let it go. It leaks where he said it leaks.  Pushing a false presumption into the ground is poor troucleshooting form. He already ordered the orings for the "T".  If that doesn't fix it he is a good enough wrench to just move on to another oring.

Leaking gas is a fire hazard. It can also create rear wheel traction problems.
Leaking gas is a big deal.  IMO you can't be too protective of yourself and your bike with a gas leak. 

When you have a gas leak, it does not take much time to be *thorough* and it pays dividends.  That's just me.  I would bet it's not the 'T' at all, he didn't disassemble it.  He did however play with the rest of the fuel delivery because the tank got painted.

Me personally?  When I pull and clean carbs like he did, I do the following to the fuel delivery system, and a lot of people do the same because pulling carbs for a cleaning is time consuming and you may as well check the gas lines and petcock at that time, doesn't add much to the carb clean job and it's thorough:
1) flush the gas tank
2) check the petcock and clean it
3) new fuel lines and inline fuel filters
4) reassemble and test for leaks under operating conditions

[INSANE REINDEER]

I actually canceled my order with rocketseals because they were going to charge me $20 to ship 8x2mm orings. Screw that. So...

Does anyone know where I can get those orings. Even if I don't need them I would like to have a backup.


Also where can I get some new gas line that still fit through the carb holes. I have tried a few types and I can not seems to find any.

And I switched up tach and speedo location to take up some slack in the cables.


Thanks

[MCRider]

I think the original OEM fuel line is available from Honda. Should fit, might be pricey, but its the real stuff.

[INSANE REINDEER]

Will a Yamaha R6 MC work for a new MC. They're 16mm. I have read of people using 16mm for the master cylinder. I found one that is in good condition for $35.

[Rigid]

Do a search on the homepage, two tired and hondaman have sold them in the past.  Maybe PM those guys?  I got mine at Autozone behind the counter but they also sell an oring assortment kit that has them.

eBay for the fuel line, $12.00 for the correct length and diameter for your bike.  I forget the guys name.

I would go with that MC if you like it.  I have used various ones and always had good luck.  If it doesn't work, resell it.

[INSANE REINDEER]

Got the MC which is a Nissin brand R6 with adjustable lever? Not sure what that does as I haven't looked it up yet. Its in good condition beside the reservoir which the mount is cracked. Ill just find a temporary fix till I can get a new one but for $35 I can't complain.

[scottly]

The 16mm MC will give a very stiff brake lever, compared to the stock 14mm. Unless you can crack coconuts with your bare hands, I would only use a 16mm with dual discs.

[INSANE REINDEER]

Well I would much rather have a stiff lever but I am going to do that upgrade soon since when I bought the bike it came with a second front caliper and mount. That's for a later date though. I see what happens with this.

Maybe it is not a 16? I see a big # 14 on the back. Does that mean it is a 14mm master cylinder?? It did come with a dual banjo bolt though so maybe it is a 16mm? Not sure