Topic: Rustoleum Paintjob, you may be surprised at my result

[davis96]

Check it out! For those of us on shoestring budgets, this Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a godsend. Take your time with prep, spray in the right conditions, and this paint simply can't be beat. All the pieces below plus my headlight bucket were painted with it straight out of the can. I also plan on doing my frame with it. I've only bought about 3 cans, one will paint several items, the tank and side covers didn't even take 2 whole cans.







Make sure the part you are painting hasn't been sitting out in the cold, and most of all make sure the can itself has been shaken well and heated up to build the pressure, making for a nice fine spray mist (I like to run the can under hot water for a couple minutes).
Hope some poor folks like me out there were inspired,
Davis

[Hondawggie]

Check it out! For those of us on shoestring budgets, this Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a godsend. Take your time with prep, spray in the right conditions, and this paint simply can't be beat. All the pieces below plus my headlight bucket were painted with it straight out of the can. I also plan on doing my frame with it. I've only bought about 3 cans, one will paint several items, the tank and side covers didn't even take 2 whole cans.







Make sure the part you are painting hasn't been sitting out in the cold, and most of all make sure the can itself has been shaken well and heated up to build the pressure, making for a nice fine spray mist (I like to run the can under hot water for a couple minutes).
Hope some poor folks like me out there were inspired,
Davis

Cool -- where do you buy the 'appliance' version of Rustoleum?  My hardware store sells plain old Rustoleum.

Looks dang good there!   Question -- if you clear coat them can you get it more shiny?  I mean a 'wet' look type of glossy look or something close to it?

[xsmooth69x]

ive been spray bombing for a long time and that looks great!!!

i hope you used some automotive clear coat on that tank and a lot so if you spill gas it wont have the chance to ruin that paint job.

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adding more clear can give you more of a wet look. after everything is dried you can wet sand with 3000 grit and use some really high quality carnauba wax and buff the living crap out of it

---------------------

also another cool tip if you are about to spray is that make sure you soak the cans in hot water before you spray and every time you get done spraying a coat shoot the can upside down and wipe off the nozzle.

also when you are still doing paint and it orange peels or runs just wet sand it down with like 800-1200 grit when the coat drys. when you wet sand it the paint will look dull since you wet sanded it but the second you throw down the clear the color comes right back so you dont have to wetsand, spray, wetsand, spray if you keep messing up.

[davis96]

Cool -- where do you buy the 'appliance' version of Rustoleum?  My hardware store sells plain old Rustoleum.

Looks dang good there!   Question -- if you clear coat them can you get it more shiny?  I mean a 'wet' look type of glossy look or something close to it?

I buy it at Home Depot, it has a picture of a refrigerator or a stove or something on the front. And no, the beauty of this paint is that what you see there is the final product after spraying it. It lays down super thick and fills in minor scratches, then hardens to a super glossy finish. Plus its tough as nails after you give it a week to cure.

[davis96]

ive been spray bombing for a long time and that looks great!!!

i hope you used some automotive clear coat on that tank and a lot so if you spill gas it wont have the chance to ruin that paint job.

---------------------

adding more clear can give you more of a wet look. after everything is dried you can wet sand with 3000 grit and use some really high quality carnauba wax and buff the living crap out of it

---------------------

also another cool tip if you are about to spray is that make sure you soak the cans in hot water before you spray and every time you get done spraying a coat shoot the can upside down and wipe off the nozzle.

also when you are still doing paint and it orange peels or runs just wet sand it down with like 800-1200 grit when the coat drys. when you wet sand it the paint will look dull since you wet sanded it but the second you throw down the clear the color comes right back so you dont have to wetsand, spray, wetsand, spray if you keep messing up.

No I did not clear it at all, nor did I sand or buff it in any way. What you see is all the result of the paint. I know that if i get gas on it it will probably mess it up, but getting quality 2k clear in a can is relatively expensive and like you said there is usually wetsanding and buffing involved to get the look you want. With this paint I just spray and go. Im extra careful at the pump, but were I to spill some gas on it, I put enough layers (5+) of paint on it that I could likely hit it with some 2000 grit and buff it back to a shine (because its single stage, no worrying about sanding through the clear). And worse comes to worse, I could spend another 4 bucks and just repaint it.

[Don R]

A friend that restores simplexes and indians told me about it. I use it on the race car frame with good results.

[davis96]

A friend that restores simplexes and indians told me about it. I use it on the race car frame with good results.

Apparently it is widely used in all different types of motoring, I found some good tips and tests for long-term viability of the paint in a group of model T enthusiasts, many of whom paint their whole car with it. I think Rustoleum could stand to make quite a bit of money were they to market it under a more generic name and offer more than the 3-4 colors offered now.

[xsmooth69x]

ive been spray bombing for a long time and that looks great!!!

i hope you used some automotive clear coat on that tank and a lot so if you spill gas it wont have the chance to ruin that paint job.

---------------------

adding more clear can give you more of a wet look. after everything is dried you can wet sand with 3000 grit and use some really high quality carnauba wax and buff the living crap out of it

---------------------

also another cool tip if you are about to spray is that make sure you soak the cans in hot water before you spray and every time you get done spraying a coat shoot the can upside down and wipe off the nozzle.

also when you are still doing paint and it orange peels or runs just wet sand it down with like 800-1200 grit when the coat drys. when you wet sand it the paint will look dull since you wet sanded it but the second you throw down the clear the color comes right back so you dont have to wetsand, spray, wetsand, spray if you keep messing up.

No I did not clear it at all, nor did I sand or buff it in any way. What you see is all the result of the paint. I know that if i get gas on it it will probably mess it up, but getting quality 2k clear in a can is relatively expensive and like you said there is usually wetsanding and buffing involved to get the look you want. With this paint I just spray and go. Im extra careful at the pump, but were I to spill some gas on it, I put enough layers (5+) of paint on it that I could likely hit it with some 2000 grit and buff it back to a shine (because its single stage, no worrying about sanding through the clear). And worse comes to worse, I could spend another 4 bucks and just repaint it.

pshhh i was just talking about auto clear spray bomb.

i wasnt talking about real 2 part clear or that 2 part clear spray paint can thats like $15

just something to put on it for the opps factor

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wait am i missing something what is so good about this paint?

is it thicker? does it not orange peel?

[davis96]

ive been spray bombing for a long time and that looks great!!!

i hope you used some automotive clear coat on that tank and a lot so if you spill gas it wont have the chance to ruin that paint job.

---------------------

adding more clear can give you more of a wet look. after everything is dried you can wet sand with 3000 grit and use some really high quality carnauba wax and buff the living crap out of it

---------------------

also another cool tip if you are about to spray is that make sure you soak the cans in hot water before you spray and every time you get done spraying a coat shoot the can upside down and wipe off the nozzle.

also when you are still doing paint and it orange peels or runs just wet sand it down with like 800-1200 grit when the coat drys. when you wet sand it the paint will look dull since you wet sanded it but the second you throw down the clear the color comes right back so you dont have to wetsand, spray, wetsand, spray if you keep messing up.

No I did not clear it at all, nor did I sand or buff it in any way. What you see is all the result of the paint. I know that if i get gas on it it will probably mess it up, but getting quality 2k clear in a can is relatively expensive and like you said there is usually wetsanding and buffing involved to get the look you want. With this paint I just spray and go. Im extra careful at the pump, but were I to spill some gas on it, I put enough layers (5+) of paint on it that I could likely hit it with some 2000 grit and buff it back to a shine (because its single stage, no worrying about sanding through the clear). And worse comes to worse, I could spend another 4 bucks and just repaint it.

pshhh i was just talking about auto clear spray bomb.

i wasnt talking about real 2 part clear or that 2 part clear spray paint can thats like $15

just something to put on it for the opps factor

-----------------------

wait am i missing something what is so good about this paint?

is it thicker? does it not orange peel?

Yea I hear the only rattle clear that will actually resist gas is the 2-part can with some kind of special button to mix the parts inside. Its actually not THAT expensive I guess (like 20 bucks a can) but def too expensive for my tastes.
As far as what makes the paint so good, yes it is thicker, thick enough to fill in minor scrathes (not like auto paint from a gun which is the consistency of sprayable colored water). It does not run or orange peel, and my favorite is that NO post-paint action is needed in order to make it have mirror-like reflections (no sanding/buffing/etc). I've painted my fair share with normal paint, and the worst part is always the color-sanding and buffing. With the epoxy, you just prep like normal, then spray and let it cure; that's all folks.
In my experience, paint is either requires little effort (like regular rattle cans) and doesnt look that great, or requires a ton of effort (normal auto paint/clear), and looks great... but this stuff gives you the best of both worlds.

[xsmooth69x]

totally going out and buying this stuff and maybe repainting some parts since im doing a lot of spray painting

awesome!

[Really?]

Your the guy on the SOHC4 group on FB.  Thanks for the much bigger and more pics!  I needed that.

I have a mini YZ frame and swingarm I need to do.

[78whiteorbs]

I have done alotta spray bombing and am notoriously cheap but 18$ for a can of spraymax 2k from 66auto.com and they will put any paint code from any vehicle in the can so colors are endless plus it has clear mixed in so it is just single stage with glass results with no buffing and it is fuel proof and being urethane. Its as tuff as paint comes-

 4$ versus 18$  .........well all things considered it's a no brainer in my book- and eventually you will spill gas no matter how careful you are. Jus syain '

[heffay]

66auto.com no worky... you got me all hot and bothered now!

[boticki]

http://www.66autocolor.com/

thanks google...

[heffay]

no, thanks boticki

edit: by the way wggie... parts look very nice!   

[fmctm1sw]

The thing that surprises me is that for all the folks that have had good success painting, my painting remains a total failure.  I take the same methodical steps I do when I do mechanical repairs but my work is normally a dud, no matter what...  Maybe I'll try a can of that stuff and see what happens.  Any chance you could paint something and drop some gas or brake fluid on it?

[davis96]

I admit the paint isn't the #1 greatest paint for the tank ever, but the fact is I did not want to wait to order paint off the Internet. Plus my bike won't ever be show quality which is fine, I'll probably leave any gas blemishes as giving the bike character. But I will say that as far as painting miscellaneous bits, it is perfect.

And for what it's worth, this paint is not 100% fool proof. I painted my 350f tank in my basement during the winter, the tank was cold, I was cold, and the can of paint was cold. I didn't do enough prep like eliminating oils off the primer coat, or wiping with a tack rag, and I ended up with a dull mess of a paint job. So prep is important, as are spraying temperatures.

[BeSeeingYou]

Another downside not yet mentioned.  This paint is meant for interior use (says on the can).  It says it's epoxy paint and generally epoxy paint will not stand up to long term UV exposure.  It will chalk and lose gloss if your bike sits outside for extended periods of time.  Sure it goes on nice and gives a hard finish as epoxy usually does but if you are going to use rattle cans at least get something for exterior use.  I would not waste my time with this stuff.  If your bike sits in the garage when not in use you may get more longevity out of it.

 late edit:
I did come across a can of Dupli-Color epoxy enamel in the basement.  It does say it can be used outdoors and is gas/oil resistant.  Real epoxy paint I have used in the past has always been two part mixtures so whether this or the appliance paint are true epoxies is an open question.

[Rigid]

Spray bomb for insignificant bits and two part catalized enamel with fuel proof clear for everyhting else.  Or powder coat.  You will save the next owner the trouble of pulling the engine to remove your junk paint from the frame.  The upside is it will rinse off with gasoline, easily.  I'm just sayin'

[lone*X]

Davis96, does this paint actually say Epoxy on the label?  If you have a bit left over how about doing a test on a couple of pieces of scrap metal, let it cure for a reasonable period ( maybe the week you mentioned?) then drip some gasoline on one and some brake fluid on the other.  Let us know the results. 

I would do the brake components, maybe the frame with it if it can hold up to Dot3.

[crazypj]

I've found that after a few months, gas has little effect on rattlecan paint.
 I prefer to leave tanks as long as I can before I put any gas in them
 It's not as though your soaking stuff in it
 I remeber reading somewhere that max hardness takes about 28~60 days, depending on temp and humidity?

 BTW, looks good 

[davis96]

I found a durability test online wherein 10 sample panels were exposed to varying amounts of the elements and the conclusion is like what was said earlier, the paint does in fact lose most if not all of its gloss after a few months of exposure to the elements. However the paint is redeemed because even after full exposure and losing all of its gloss, it can be easily rubbed back to a perfect gloss.

This panel was exposed to all the elements outdoors for 7 months, as you can see the paint is faded, but notice on the right side that a little polish brought the weather beaten paint back to life and restored the glossy finish:


The full test and results are here:  http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/182651.html

These results speak for themselves I think. On my last tank, gas spilling on it did not like instantly dissolve the paint or anything, it just left a faded spot where the spill was, which could be compounded back to a gloss.

[Really?]

I am sure glad you brought this here. Watching this great and informative.

[heffay]

I remeber reading somewhere that max hardness takes about 28~60 days

Oh man... she's never gonna go for that.   

[bjatwood]

I'm glad it can be rubbed back into shape!