Topic: how long is your SS brake line? mines this big <-------------------->

[xsmooth69x]

ok if you look at my cb550 build it might be a little better to understand

anyways the jist of it is that im going straight to the master cylinder to the hard brake line to the front caliper ditching the tri block system thing with the brake line sensor in it.

now my question is (if anyone runs kind of the same setup) is how long is your line?

also if someone wants to entertain me so i dont have to race around the forums looking for the answer is what are the end size fittings and angles do i need?

also what is the size of the banjo brake switch banjo that i need?

sooooo

1) size of the SS brake line
2) the diameter and angle of the end fittings
3) size of the banjo brake switch

the reason i need to know #2 is that im probably going to have to get the SS line made and theres a good ebay member that makes them that has a positive feedback from some members on the forums when i was cruising the threads. forgot the dude off the top of my head

[Spiider]

The answers to all those questions...pay Slingshot Cycle about $60. 

Well, not really answers but he makes the perfect length for clipons, the right fittings to go straight from the master to the brake caliper....

[xsmooth69x]

The answers to all those questions...pay Slingshot Cycle about $60. 

Well, not really answers but he makes the perfect length for clipons, the right fittings to go straight from the master to the brake caliper....

i can get it down cheaper if i had the specs

[crazypj]

You need to check how deep the threaded part in caliper is.
 Some will need the taper fitting removed and caliper tapped deeper. (I pull them out and re-tap)
 You may also need to have the sealing washer recess spot faced a bit larger diameter.
 The banjo switch you need is 10 x 1.25mm
As for length, it depends how it's routed and what bars you have fitted
Buy a few feet of 1/4" plastic tube, you can route and cut until your happy

[Spiider]

Cheaper may not be better...for example I have a local "fluid power" shop here that makes a boatload of hydraulic hoses for me. at really good prices.

When I started chatting with him about making a motorcycle brake cable he jokingly threatened to kick me out of his store....they did not want to know that the application was for a DOT brake line.

According to him, too much liability, and the grade of the components would push the price up substantially.
Ie. Non-destructive tested fittings rated for high pressure, certified hose suitable for DOT brake fluid.

That's why I avoided your answer by pointing you to Slingshot...hope I didn't offend you with that.
I think that is a good solution vs the cost.

If you need to I can measure some of the measurements on my clip-on length Slingshot brake line and let you know privately, I don't want to piss him off either by posting up that kind of proprietary data.

[754]

measure it yourself.. otherwise you will get one that fits PERFECTLY on someone elses bike, but not yours.
 If you want a proper fit measure it, and be sure..

[Really?]

I figured the routing and length using string (I like the hose idea), figured out the routing, decided on the angles for the bends and ordered each part from Z1. It went together easy and I got darn close to what I needed. It worked out just fine. I left the switch in too.

It was more intimidating for the first time than anything else.

Oh, forgot to add that I drew it out on paper, listed out each part I needed, added the part number and price to each and went over that list a bunch of times before I pulled the trigger.  That helped me a lot.

I asked basically what you are asking here and got a lot of the same answers. They are not being buttheads, they are telling you the truth.

[xsmooth69x]

You need to check how deep the threaded part in caliper is.
 Some will need the taper fitting removed and caliper tapped deeper. (I pull them out and re-tap)
 You may also need to have the sealing washer recess spot faced a bit larger diameter.
 The banjo switch you need is 10 x 1.25mm
As for length, it depends how it's routed and what bars you have fitted
Buy a few feet of 1/4" plastic tube, you can route and cut until your happy

no no you mis understood what im trying to do. im going to keep the hard line into the caliper. theres always a heated debate on why the hard line is used (not going to get into that)

but like the stock system i want my SS line to fit into the hard line on the caliper just like the stock brake line would.

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great idea on the string lol i never though about that i just took a tape measure and roughly thought 2 feet lol.

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OMG i totally forgot about the DOT certification on these lines. i will for sure pay the extra 20 and contact slingshot to get one made. 20 isnt worth a blow out under heavy braking.

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what is the size of the banjo that screws into the master cylinder so i can order the banjo brake switch. im looking at Z1 and is it 10mmx1.00mm or 10mmx1.25mm?

[Really?]

I dunno the 550, I did the 750.  Wished could give you an answer.  I sniffed out those number for the 750 by searching and reading a lot on this forum.

[xsmooth69x]

I dunno the 550, I did the 750.  Wished could give you an answer.  I sniffed out those number for the 750 by searching and reading a lot on this forum.

no problem someone will chime in with the answer for the 550

ill probably be asking the same question when i get to my 750 build

[crazypj]

 The banjo switch you need is 10 x 1.25mm

[Toxic]

Use the 1/4 tube like Crazy suggests it's easier and more accurate than a string.  make sure your bike's weight is on the forks.
Glad you decided to not " cheap out " on such an important part of your build

[754]

 I would never mix the hard line with the braided.. just for safety..
 At one time, in the dark ages you could buy stainless lines with steel tube ends crimped on for certain bikes, and some OEM were rubber crimped onto same steel line end.  Well one time and its probably the only time I remember some bike at the bar got vandalized by some dickhead and he bent over the steel line, kinking it severely.  That is what  I hate about the steel ines.. easy to immobilize or slow down a bike. Myself I think full stailness line is just tougher and more bulletproof..
 maybe someone can remind me of some advantage of the steel tube line, cause I am not getting it..

[xsmooth69x]

I would never mix the hard line with the braided.. just for safety..
 At one time, in the dark ages you could buy stainless lines with steel tube ends crimped on for certain bikes, and some OEM were rubber crimped onto same steel line end.  Well one time and its probably the only time I remember some bike at the bar got vandalized by some dickhead and he bent over the steel line, kinking it severely.  That is what  I hate about the steel ines.. easy to immobilize or slow down a bike. Myself I think full stailness line is just tougher and more bulletproof..
 maybe someone can remind me of some advantage of the steel tube line, cause I am not getting it..

wait wow wow wow hold on here let me get this right

i should not attach a SS line to the stock hard line going into the caliper?



what is a full stainless line? isnt that an SS line (stainless steel line)?

and the inside of an SS line is teflon and i know under braking the SS lines do flex a little but not near as much as regular brake lines



arnt all brake lines crimped at the ends?





what im doing is just like what the stock setup using the caliper> oem hard line > and screw on the SS line instead of the OEM rubber line

is this not good?

[xsmooth69x]

Use the 1/4 tube like Crazy suggests it's easier and more accurate than a string.  make sure your bike's weight is on the forks.
Glad you decided to not " cheap out " on such an important part of your build

1) when you said the bikes weight you mean just the bike sitting there under its own weight right not on the center stand, kickstand and not on the motorcycle jack.

2) or do you mean the full weight/load of the bike when the fork is completely compressed?

i would imagine you meant the first one

[xsmooth69x]

isnt slingshot on these forums and he gives a little favor for us SOHC heads?

[Toxic]

yes, the bike sitting there under it's own weight.  Route the line, by taping the ends were you want them to go.  I have seen some that were too long and curved dangerously close to the headers.
Once you have it where you want, sit on the bike and make sure it is still not too close to your headers.

Slingshot has done so many of these I'm sure he knows what length you need.  Just tell him your set up.

[754]

 The lines I used were not crimped, they are  put on with2 wrenches. This means you can make any length, plus you can shorten them up later if desired.
 I did not say you cant use it with the steel tube, I said I will not... I did not use banjos on my chopper,  just fittings. some crimped end are longer than they need to be (so I prefer the shorter thread together fittings), JMO.
 Be careful with measuring with weight on the forks, YOU MUST a;;ow enough extra for full fork extension.

[crazypj]

I too use the bolt up type, easy to make and modify (you can buy just the 'olives' to shorten lines)
 I prefer to use the longest run possible, flexing over a longer run means lines last longer (with forks extended)
 I've seen several stainless lines work harden and a strand pierce the Teflon liner, so, they are not 'fit and forget'
Kevlar lines used to be a lot cheaper and a lot more flexible than stainless, now, they are more expensive, when you can find someone who makes them 

 

[xsmooth69x]

I too use the bolt up type, easy to make and modify (you can buy just the 'olives' to shorten lines)
 I prefer to use the longest run possible, flexing over a longer run means lines last longer (with forks extended)
 I've seen several stainless lines work harden and a strand pierce the Teflon liner, so, they are not 'fit and forget'
Kevlar lines used to be a lot cheaper and a lot more flexible than stainless, now, they are more expensive, when you can find someone who makes them 

bolt up type? olives?

[754]

 I think Earls supply and Aeroquip sell hose, ends, adaptors...look at -3 size

[xsmooth69x]

wait so if i make the lines myself are they going to be DOT certified?

[dave500]

ill run that by my shrink,he had me certified!

[754]

 No.. but do you care.. Do you trust your work?

To sell them to people, as a service they should be certified..

[vames]

You're getting way more information than you need. You can take a crash course in home-made brake lines and go through all the potential pitfalls that a noob typically goes through, which could cost you well in excess of what a finished line costs. Or you could call slingshot, tell him what you have, and get him to make some for the relatively cheap price of $60ish. It's an easy choice -- don't get distracted.