Author Topic: Clutch [still!] won't disengage: '71 CB500 (Read 4365 times)

Tugboat · « **on:** November 04, 2011, 07:12:41 AM »

Installed the clutch lever and cable last night. It feels REALLY smooshy when I pull the lever, and sure enough, it doesn't disengage the clutch. It is slow to return to its original position when released and doesn't "snap" back like it should. Here's how the cable is adjusted.. it's a new cable. I adjusted the clutch using the adjustment screw in the cover (clockwise until tension is felt, then backed off about 1/2 turn) but still nothing. The bike will bump shift through the gears so that's not it. Any idea what's going on here?

dave500 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:11:53 PM »

half a turn is way too much backed off,slacken the cable,then adjust that cover adjuster again but only back it off a smidge,then adjust the cable again,test ride and check for slip etc,,you may also experience frozen plates,when you engage 1st it stalls the engine as if the clutch doesent release,to free it up,with the ignition off,pull in the clutch and kick the engine over,after about two or three kicks the kicker should go free and not turn the engine over,the clutch is now free,the kicker action drives through the engaged clutch.

dave500 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:13:11 PM »

you didnt lose the little ball at the rods end?

Tugboat · « **Reply #3 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:23:53 PM »

I didn't remove the rod at all, so at least I didn't lose it. That doesn't mean that someone else didn't lose it though. Without sticking another ball down in there, how can I tell if it is present or not? Length of the shaft?

dave500 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:26:57 PM »

the ball is at the adjuster end,it disapears into the hole where the rod sits in the adjuster.

part # 18

Tugboat · « **Reply #5 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:42:04 PM »

Oh really? So not down in the engine but inside the cover?

dave500 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:46:00 PM »

yep,inside the adjuster,mostly stuck inside with old grease,with the cover off,you can withdraw the rod and check its not broken,the end thats into the clutch side should be domed,the ball end is sort of flat with a tiny recess for the ball to centre onto.

Tugboat · « **Reply #7 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:47:35 PM »

Well that's probably it then. Will check when I get to the shop. Thanks (again) Dave!!

dave500 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:49:13 PM »

try readjusting first,,its backed off too far,if it was working before the new cable and the ball is in place it should be ok once adjusted.

Tugboat · « **Reply #9 on:** November 04, 2011, 01:04:34 PM »

No idea how it WAS working.. this bike was totally in pieces when I got to it. But yeah, I'll readjust first then check for the ball. It's gotta be something like that

Tugboat · « **Reply #10 on:** November 07, 2011, 09:24:52 AM »

So, the ball is in the adjuster and I've adjusted the cables. The lever snaps back fine now and FEELS like it's working, but still no dice. Put it in first, pull in the lever and the rear wheel does not spin freely. Ray (Spanner1) suggested that I may need to fire the motor up first and that may help unstick it. Any other thoughts?

dave500 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 07, 2011, 11:31:55 AM »

re read my first reply on frozen clutch plates.

Tugboat · « **Reply #12 on:** November 08, 2011, 09:07:58 AM »

So I pulled the clutch lever in and kicked it over a bunch of times as Dave500 suggested and still it still won't disengage. What should I try next?

chickenman_26 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 08, 2011, 10:38:39 AM »

Quote from: Tugboat on November 08, 2011, 09:07:58 AM

So I pulled the clutch lever in and kicked it over a bunch of times as Dave500 suggested and still it still won't disengage. What should I try next?

Sometimes, these things get stuck so hard after sitting for years, that disassembly and cleaning is the only cure. That's what I suggest you do. Pull off the clutch cover, disassemble the clutch. Clean all clutch plates and inspect all parts for wear or damage - especially look for notches worn into the clutch basket "fingers". If it's all clean and not damaged, I believe it'll work fine after you reassemble it.

Stu

dave500 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 08, 2011, 11:27:47 AM »

yep,pull it apart,its not hard.

Tugboat · « **Reply #15 on:** November 21, 2011, 11:33:40 AM »

Took the clutch apart over the weekend. Yep - all of the plates were totally stuck together from the clutch sitting out in the open (well, inside) for about 6 months. Unstuck everything, cleaned it well, soaked the friction plates in oil overnight, applied oil to the steel discs when reassembling. Put it all back together, adjusted the slack out of the cable......... it still won't disengage when you pull the lever in.

Couple of things: I haven't tried to shift it into first with the motor running and the bike on its center stand - only with the motor off. Will I damage anything if I do?

Also, I've got a new cable but I have to have both top & bottom adjusters almost all the way out to get it to grab. The bike has shorter bars on it. Is it possible that the cable is too long and consequently I can't adjust it correctly and that's what's keeping the clutch from disengaging? I'm not sure what else to do....

dave500 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 21, 2011, 10:55:41 PM »

the primary adjustment has been reset after you assembled it?

Tugboat · « **Reply #17 on:** November 22, 2011, 11:32:01 AM »

Well, went to the shop last night and decided that there really is no mechanical reason why this shouldn't work. Adjustment made at the side cover, and cable slack taken up. I fired up the bike on the center stand in neutral, pulled the lever *short prayer* and kicked it into first. Clunky, but my 750 sounds about the same on any given day. I think it just needed to warm up to actually get the discs to slip within the pack.

Rolled it outside, fired it up and rode it about 50 yards just to be sure that it shifts through all of the gears. It was wet, and gravel, so I didn't really Get On It but seems to shift ok. Thanks for all of the tips & encouragement guys!

nancy · « **Reply #18 on:** November 22, 2011, 07:17:18 PM »

Tugboat,
While I would not be qualified to say - this is fairly "normal",.. I can say it's normal for me if I leave my 750 for more than say 3 weeks or so - the plates become stuck...needing some warming up and revving with the clutch lever pulled in and held in for some time. On the worst occasion I must have left the bike idle in the shed for 6 weeks thru the worst of this winter - and had to put it up on the stand and drop it into 1st gear with the motor running. It freed up immediately. Alternatively - start it and warm it up, push it along with your feet till it rolls along and stab it into 1st ...on your driveway..not the freeway.
Regards
Mark

luap · « **Reply #19 on:** November 22, 2011, 09:38:38 PM »

follow what dave500 says had the same problem with my 550 an he was dead on helping me out

dave500 · « **Reply #20 on:** November 23, 2011, 12:27:19 AM »

ive had one was always sticky even after just an overnight period everytime,i just used the ignition off pull the clutch and kick it free trick,then its fine,i dont think the 500 releases as far as the 550s?also if the 500 has a worn worm screw in that case adjuster youll lose disengagement travel.

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Author Topic: Clutch [still!] won't disengage: '71 CB500 (Read 4365 times)