Topic: CR750 replica for the street

[Terry in Australia]

Those old Koni's look odd, I don't think those particular ones were meant for a CB750, the bodies look too long and the springs too short. I've got a pair of CB750 Koni's hanging up in my garage, I'll have to go out and take a look.

The aluminium bodies Koni's are a baastard to pull apart (which is why mine are still hanging on my wall) as they weld themselves together with electrolysis over the years, but if you can get them apart they're great, and while Ikon don't list rebuild kits for them, they're not dissimilar to the 7610 series Koni/Ikon shocks, and I've used 7610 rebuild kits to rebuild old Koni's in the past.

The Ikon factory is just 200 miles up the road from my place, which pisses me off when I see Ikon shocks for sale cheaper in the US than here in Oz............    

[Vincent]

You're right, Terry, they do look odd. I bought a used pair on ebay, and then found an NOS pair (in the box) and got that one too. The first pair is what's on the bike. The two sets have different eye-to-eye, spring, and body dimensions. I'll be getting to the shocks soon, but if neither set is appropriate, I'll pick up a set of Ikons like Cafe Racer Fan.

Thanks to all of you for casting a sharp eye on the proceedings. If you see something that doesn't look right, I'm grateful to hear about it.

Vincent

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hey Vincent,

Saw your profile pop up on the Project Forum.  Any updates on your beautiful CR750?

Don

[Vincent]

Hi Don,

I'm in wiring hell! I made the harness for my 1970 Bonneville, but that was a long time ago and it was pretty simple and - well, I don't know, maybe I had more brain cells back then. I understand the ignition and lighting parts of it, but regulator/rectifier, starter relay, starter, kill switch and start button have kind of driven me crazy. I'm not using the stock harness for two reasons. One is that I'm leaving out a bunch of stock items. Signals, idiot lights, neutral switch, clutch switch, oil pressure light, clutch switch, and turn signal buzzer. And the other reason is that since so many other things on the bike are custom, I thought it should have a custom wiring harness. I got some nice wire and sheathing and connectors and a crimping tool from Rhode Island Wiring Service and Vintage Connections, and I want to make a neat and simple harness that will be as unobtrusive as possible. I've spent too many hours searching things like simple motorcycle wiring and printing out the diagrams that show up. Trouble is, so many of them are different. Alternators with three wires, four wires, one wire that the writer says should be capped off, different color wires, and it just makes me do more dithering. I've been making my own diagram that reflects the commonalities in the ones that I've printed, but I'm kind of paralyzed by doubt. Wow, this is sounding too much like a therapy session. Better stop.

Anyway, I bought a GL1000 battery strap and made some aluminum clips to hold it in place.


I made an aluminum plate to go under the battery box, and a bracket to hold the starter solenoid. The box will face the back of the motorcycle, and the solenoid will sit behind it. The regulator/rectifier is mounted underneath the plate, and the wires from it come up through the grommet. The wires will be enclosed in braided thermo sheathing.


So that's where I am right now, switching between thinking about wires, thinking about shift linkage, and thinking about putting baffles in the megaphones. I could probably fall in love with the sound of open pipes on the bike, but I'd feel like a bully riding it around like that.

Oh, one more thing. I got a Motogadget m-Lock, and I'm figuring out where to mount it. I didn't want to have a key, but needed a way to cut power to the start button, and I think the m-Lock is the neatest way to go.

Thanks for looking.

Vincent

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Vincent,

Are running conventional relays and fuses or are you looking at the Motogadget M-Unit?  The grommet on the electronics tray look like the grommets for side covers.   

[Vincent]

The grommet looks like it has an oval hole, but it's actually round. I found it at a well-stocked local hardware store. And I'm using conventional fuses and relays. I like the mechanical aspect.

Does anyone out there have a recommendation for a good, easy-to-read wiring diagram?

Vincent

[calj737]

Vincent - going thru this myself as we speak. Difference is, I'm using the m-Unit and no fuses or relays. It's much cleaner and more simple.

If you want some guidance on how I have my bike wired, I'm happy to give you device-by-device routing and color schemes.

The m-key is going to want some ability to have "switched" ignition with the proximity device enabled. Without using a key, or the m-unit, I'm not sure how you will accomplish this?

Here's a snap shot of my install (not fully completed)

[Vincent]

Cal-
Maybe I'm missing something. The m-Lock comes with a relay, and as I understand it, that relay takes the place of the ignition switch. It makes the connection that "switches" the hot wire, powering up the start button, coils, light switch, etc. That said, your installation looks good, and I'd be very happy to see details on just what you did. If I have to get the m-Unit I guess I'll just get it. Gulp. MORE money. After watching so many other people turn out finished bikes, I'm hyped to get mine on the road. I appreciate any help.

Vincent

[calj737]

Vincent - If it has a relay, then you're all set. I didn't realize that. I'm planning on adding that device to my 500 build, but didn't use it on my 550 as the whole system was an afterthought, and I already had a keyed ignition.

You can check out my build to see the latest update on the m-unit install. I also cobbled together a bare bones schematic I will keep as a reference for my 500 build.

As for not needing the m-unit; you don't. But you want it anyway. It does some very good stuff for you.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Vincent,

How's the CR coming along?

Here's some inspiration.  Yoshi's old CR750:

[Vincent]

Hey, thanks for the prod, Cafe Racer Fan. Work has been beyond stressful since March, and I've made embarassingly little progress. Hmmm. Sounds like an old story.

I can show some wiring-related pics, so here goes. In an effort to minimize the number of connectors, I've been making solder joints wherever I can. I strip the ends, wrap a single strand of copper around them, solder them, and cover them with shrinktube. After that, they go into the really nice black PVC sleeving from Vintage Connections.


I looked around for battery cable ends but wound up making my own and covering them with rubber caps I found while browsing Honda parts schematics.




The rubber caps have a groove just inside the large opening, and the groove happens to slip over and lock onto an 8mm washer, making a nice seal. I put one one each solenoid post.


I really don't like plastic zip-ties, so I'm using thin aluminum belts that I cut to length and slip into 3/16 shrinktube. Here's a belt, and how it looks on the bike.




Because I switched out the pegs for rearsets, the brake switch had to be repositioned. I wanted the switch to be in line withe the frame tube, so I made a paper pattern for a bracket, cut the bracket out of steel, formed it, and installed it.










So that's it for now. Have to finish wiring and then move on to working out the shift linkage. So many little detail projects along the way.

Once again, thanks for looking.

Vincent

[SF]

just noticed all the nice hardware you used, can you tell me where you ordered? if you mentioned it before apology's   

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Great details, as always Vincent. It's really coming together beautifully.

[Vincent]

Hi SF,

I went through the parts manual, wrote down all the bolt sizes, and organized them by page number. Then I went to DMP fasteners in Chatsworth California, got stainless metric bolts, nuts, and washers, and put them in ziploc bags labeled with the page numbers. DMP has tons of stuff, and you can check it out on their website:  dmpfasteners.com  I chucked all the bolts in the lathe and turned the heads down to get rid of the raised markings. If the other end of a bolt is visible when it's installed, I turned that end too.The long bolts that run through the frame and engine were replaced with stainless rod that was cut to length and threaded by my friend Joe, who is a machinist.

And Don- Thanks for the kind words. Until my bike is finished, I'll get vicarious riding thrills from following your forum entries.

[SF]

They look great man, thx for the tip

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hi Vincent,

I feel compelled to prod for an update, as this is one of my favorite builds.  Any tidbits?   

Don

[Trad]

What Don said. This thing looks amazing.

[Garage_guy_chris]

Those rubber terminal covers are nice, i could use a bunch for my build care to share the modern application and or the part number?.

I love the build and would love to put together a CR replica one day. For now i will have to live vicariously through other peoples builds.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Semi-monthly ping/request for an update, Vincent.  I need my CR750 fix! 

[jruff5585]

Can you tell me where you got your exhaust from? i't just what I'm looking for

[FunJimmy]

Semi-monthly ping/request for an update, Vincent.  I need my CR750 fix! 

Me too.

[Trad]

Semi-monthly ping/request for an update, Vincent.  I need my CR750 fix! 

Haha, you're on it Don.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Can you tell me where you got your exhaust from? i't just what I'm looking for

Jruff,

The four-into-four race exhaust system was sourced from forum member Lord Moonpie.  "Some assembly required" but this is a very authentic and LOUD race system.  It will wake the neighbors.

[jruff5585]

Thanks I'll contact him

[Bruno]

Hello Sir ,
Any update on your great project ?
Greetings,
Bruno