Topic: 550K fork question, re: Hondaman's thoughts

[Scott S]

 I will soon be going into the front end of my '78 550K to get rid of the horrid aftermarket headlight and ears and I'll take the opportunity to install tapered bearings and all the stock parts. Fresh wheel bearings in the wheels, too, while it's all apart
 The forks are weeping a little, so they'll get fresh seals as well.

 I'm NOT a road racer or canyon carver. My riding abilities will never overcome the stock set-up.....IF the stock set-up was brand new. But it's not....it's now 34 years old. So, a mild upgrade is in order.

 Hondaman states: "shim the front springs inside the fork tubes with at least 3 washers of the diameter that fits the tubes inside."
 I'll give that a shot and either add a little oil OR go up one weight.

 I've never been inside Honda forks before. I've fiddled with some Yamaha and Kawasaki stuf, though. Dumb question: WHERE do you put the washers? On top of the spring, or stack them at the bottom?

 What about the oil thing? Anyone tried that? The bike will have dual discs and a ~178lb. rider.
 Just trying to get a decent front end for a marginal rider. Back roads, touring, a trip to the mountains every now and then to take in the twisties. No track days, no knee dragging, etc.

 Thoughts?

[72500john]

not an expert on this. but fro what i have hear on this forum adding washers go on top of the springs. and as far as fork oil weight goes its up to experimenting with different weight to see what you like. kinda like a pair of shoes.
as far as going into the forks and fiddling around..dude forks are forks. maybe a bit different from one model to the next. but all basicly the same. you should be able to find the oem manuals on this site.
search for some tech tips here..alot of good info from these folks..youll do fine.

[CoachDoc]

Just finished restoring my '74 550. Has 19K miles and had sat for 17 years. For the front end I just replaced the fork seals and replaced the fork fluid (ATF for me). I weigh 195 and I'm very happy with the front end the way it is. Maybe I'd feel differently with a high miler. My steering bearings are OEM. I keep them adjusted and it seems good.

[Tews19]

All Balls Tapered bearings are what I just ordered for both of my 550's.. Guy on Ebay is selling them for 33 bucks only... You plan to change out to pr0gressive springs? Here is a good video... CB550 Fork Seals

[Scott S]

 What about stacking the washers? Anyone ever done that?

[Duanob]

I think i would forego the washer idea until later after you've had a chance to see what new oil and seals will do for you. I believe the springs in the later model 550s are progressive according to my Haynes manual but that could be BS. But they do tighten up the coils on one end of the spring. You have to make sure you put them in the same way they came out.

[Scott S]

 The '78 550K came with progressive springs, right?

 What about a little heavier oil or a little more oil than called for?

[Tews19]

I am not sure if the 550K has them. I will find out shortly as I have the all balls tapered bearings waiting and new fork seals. I do know my 75 550F did.

[scunny]

You have to make sure you put them in the same way they came out.

how do you know they are the right way round after 30 odd years ?

[Danno]

I run 10/w30 in my forks never felt the need to shim them the heavier oil is exactly what it needed too much bounce with the old oil and I don't know if it was the 10 weight it was supposed to be or not the only problem with using a multi viscosity instead of straight 10 weight is if it is below freezing when you ride the forks will be stiffer I don't ride below 38 degrees so it is not a problem for me

adding more oil than is specified will slow the return rate of the fork this can be good or bad depending on how you look at it
tends to hold the front end down at a stop light till you let go of the front brake

[becken]

I have redone the forks on my 1976 CB550F using the Race Tech springs and gold valves. Race Tech suspension parts are not just for racing, they work very well on the street. One advantage is your fork springs are matched to your weight and riding style. Their FAQ section at http://racetech.com/page/id/30 can answer a lot of questions about setting static sag (shimming the fork springs) and the effects of changing fork oil levels and viscosity. Along with the Progressive Suspension rear shocks with the heavier set of springs to support my 220 lbs., this was the best thing I ever did to my 550. The ride now is firm without being harsh , the front end doesn't nose dive on hard braking and the tires stay in contact with the road better if you should hit a bump while leaned over. Feels like a much newer bike while still having the classic looks. Last summer I surprised a guy on a Suzuki crotch rocket by staying on his tail through a very twisty section of highway, but I'm not recommending your trying that.

[Bankerdanny]

I went to 15 wt fork oil when I did the seals on my '77 last summer. I weigh about 225# and I was very pleased with the ride quality.

[bollingball]

I Did not see how thick the washers should be ??

                                         Ken

[becken]

The washers or whatever you use for spacers should be thick enough so that when you are sitting on the bike, the forks are compressed 28% to 33% of their total travel.
http://racetech.com/page/id/30
What you are changing is the ride height. This will also effect the rake and trail. Too much sag = less rake and trail.