Topic: Noob handlebar install questions

[4n2twstr]

Wsup fellas.  As per subject, I was replacing my stock mini ape hangers on my '77 CB750 K7 last night and ran in to some minor issues.  I'll break it down for ya...

1.) I don't see a protruding piece of plastic or metal from the throttle housing to keep it in place; does that mean there's no need for me to drill a hole in the bar to keep it from moving?

2.) My new handlebars aren't knurled like the stock ones, do I need to apply some type of material between bar and clamps so that the bar will stay in place?  If so, what do you use?

3.) It appears that grease was applied between the throttle sleeve and handlebar, do I use just generic grease or is there any specific ones to use?  Can I use motorcycle chain lube? 

That's about it... for now.  I've only replaced spark plugs and oil/filter on bikes in the past, hence the inquiries.  TIA!

[MCRider]

Wsup fellas.  As per subject, I was replacing my stock mini ape hangers on my '77 CB750 K7 last night and ran in to some minor issues.  I'll break it down for ya...

1.) I don't see a protruding piece of plastic or metal from the throttle housing to keep it in place; does that mean there's no need for me to drill a hole in the bar to keep it from moving?

2.) My new handlebars aren't knurled like the stock ones, do I need to apply some type of material between bar and clamps so that the bar will stay in place?  If so, what do you use?

3.) It appears that grease was applied between the throttle sleeve and handlebar, do I use just generic grease or is there any specific ones to use?  Can I use motorcycle chain lube? 

That's about it... for now.  I've only replaced spark plugs and oil/filter on bikes in the past, hence the inquiries.  TIA!

1. Originally, there was a round pin coming up from the bottom half that fit into a hole in the bar. Not the big hole for the wires. If the bars have been replaced, it was common for people to pull those pins out and just trust the clamping force of the switch housing. This is OK, but don't get carried away tightening the clamp, you can break it. You will not be able to get the halves to close, there will always be a gap in the front and rear. I make the gaps equal in space.
2. The clamps should be enough. MANY people have replaced their bars and few are knurled. The clamps are special though. If you'll notice they are not the same front to back. You should put the thick part of the clamp in the forward position and tighten it down. Once that's done you'll see the rearward part of the clamp has a gap in it. Tighten the rear bolt down till the bar is secure and stop. There should still be a gap in the rearward part of the clamp.
3. Grease in that area should be very sparing. I'd use a white waterproof lithium grease, only because I have it to use up. Anything should be fine, just a touch. IMO

[Rigid]

Handlebar clamps have a dot milled into their faces that goes forward, or "up"  I have had aftermarket handlebars that would move even if the clamps were very tight.  A small patch of metal shim material (beer can) can provide the clamping force needed. 

[Gordon]

Do not use spray-on chain lube under the throttle sleeve.  Most have a tacky additive to keep it from flying off the chain.  Once the solvent evaporates, this would cause your throttle grip to stick.

[4n2twstr]

Damn that was fast AND straight to the point, you guys rock, thx!!!

[flybox1]

When i swapped out the mini-apes on my 350f, my euro bars had no knurling at the center under the triple clamp, and i didnt want to over-tighten the clap and snap it, so, i taped the edges of the clamped areas of the new bars, took a dremel and roughed up chrome in spots going under the clamp, and shimmed the bars with 2 turns of fiberglass drywall tape.  held tight and never slid after that.