Author Topic: 18 $ paint job (Read 29916 times)

stinkfinger · « **Reply #75 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:49:51 AM »

Took some pics in better light, this is actually closer to what
harley impact blue looks like in the daylight.

Tony

wingman1946 · « **Reply #76 on:** January 21, 2012, 07:33:46 AM »

Quote from: CoyoteUSP on November 11, 2011, 07:30:47 AM

You did all that with one can?? SOLD.

I have used the Spray Max 2k clear and It is hard to see all that done with one can. I have been able to order it at the local Car Quest store for $17 total. However online it is usually advertised for $18 to $25 a can plus @10 shipping. Also keep in mind there is a 24 to 48 hour window to use the contents of the can once it is mixed.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #77 on:** January 21, 2012, 09:20:00 AM »

I think it has a lot to do with the color you are spraying .In se if you read my previous posts you will see I was not spraying over a light grey primed surface like you may have been. Iwas spraying over an old top coat of the same color. Imagine how painting a white wall white would take significantly less than paint than
a black or red or blue wall to white. In fact I had paint left over that I was looking for something too use it on in the shop before it dried in the can. Coincidentally I now own a. Brilliant orange metallic hammer

One big miistake is using more paint than you need for coverage .This leads to runs and sags and isnt necassary. A few light coats give better end resuluts and uses dramatically less paint. Also my paint had metallic mica flake in it which seemed to stretch it even more. The last bike I did jet black and it didn't go half as far. So I see how someone could get less coverage outt of a can. You should see how far I can stretch a tube of toothpaste or shampoo

Vreihenmotor6 · « **Reply #78 on:** January 21, 2012, 02:15:23 PM »

I'm still working on the prep work for my bike, but I'm hoping to get one 750f tank and 2 rear cowls out of my can

HonderCB · « **Reply #79 on:** January 24, 2012, 07:42:24 AM »

orbs, just for clarification, are you spraying:

1. separate color and clear from spraymax
2. any old color and spraymax clear
3. or all in one can color and clear spraymax

I might re-paint my bike this year. all of your stuff looks great.

wingman1946 · « **Reply #80 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:22:32 AM »

As I said before I was spraying CLEAR over color. Not color over primer. Cleared the tank and side covers and 1st can was gone. 2nd can did rear body work and front fender with some left over for another project. If a person was just spraying the base coat or a single stage color then maybe you could do a whole bike. Maybe. FYI: not sure why this was possible but I used up the last bit of can #2 four days after it was first mixed.

Gonzowerke · « **Reply #81 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:52:08 AM »

Quote from: wingman1946 on January 24, 2012, 08:22:32 AM

As I said before I was spraying CLEAR over color. Not color over primer. Cleared the tank and side covers and 1st can was gone. 2nd can did rear body work and front fender with some left over for another project. If a person was just spraying the base coat or a single stage color then maybe you could do a whole bike. Maybe. FYI: not sure why this was possible but I used up the last bit of can #2 four days after it was first mixed.

I may be wrong, but I seem to remember from a bodyman friend of mine that exposure to air is required for the catalyst reaction to start.

wingman1946 · « **Reply #82 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:56:57 AM »

You may be correct. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. I was going by the label that says 24 to 48 hours depending on temp.

Syscrush · « **Reply #83 on:** January 25, 2012, 07:28:12 AM »

Quote from: Gonzowerke on January 24, 2012, 08:52:08 AM

I may be wrong, but I seem to remember from a bodyman friend of mine that exposure to air is required for the catalyst reaction to start.

If that were true, then there would be no requirement for making 2-part paint. Being in a cold garage would be a more likely explanation...

robdrobd · « **Reply #84 on:** January 30, 2012, 03:13:27 PM »

If I am going to paint over factory paint can I just scuff it up with 360 grit and then use spray max 2k?

wingman1946 · « **Reply #85 on:** January 30, 2012, 04:28:45 PM »

Quote from: robdrobd on January 30, 2012, 03:13:27 PM

If I am going to paint over factory paint can I just scuff it up with 360 grit and then use spray max 2k?

You can do that but keep in mind you are spraying clear and everything you spray over will show through.

Syscrush · « **Reply #86 on:** January 30, 2012, 11:16:07 PM »

Quote from: wingman1946 on January 30, 2012, 04:28:45 PM

You can do that but keep in mind you are spraying clear and everything you spray over will show through.

It comes in colors other than clear.

robdrobd · « **Reply #87 on:** January 31, 2012, 04:39:01 AM »

Quote from: 78whiteorbs on November 10, 2011, 02:56:08 PM

Also can't decide whether or not to paint the headlight bucket, fork ears ,and fork lowers. Don't wanna over do it but - it might look nice-
Thinking about black out my rims as well as the rear rim has some surface rust that is gonna get excavated and I like the look of blacked out rims at least I am partial to the idea given my options

Orbs, In normal summer temps and humidity (75-85 degrees here), how long did you wait between coats?

robdrobd · « **Reply #88 on:** March 22, 2012, 10:46:40 AM »

Quote from: 78whiteorbs on December 26, 2011, 08:54:51 PM

Best advice I can give is if you have anything wiith that ccolor take it to a bodyshop and have them photo index it .They have a special camera that will give you a ppg. Code. Which you can then use for the spraymax. I recently did a tank for a 75rd350 the ppg code came out as a match for Boeing 747 orange! The match was spot onn.com

Orbs, did you do any wet sanding and polishing after you sprayed the 2K? I just sprayed mine and was wondering if you let it alone after spraying, or wet sanded and polished? If so, how and what did you use? Thanks

PurduePete · « **Reply #89 on:** March 28, 2012, 01:39:43 PM »

Well I think I'll look into this instead of the brush rustoleum job. Every one's paint looks amazing. I'm excited to get my bike looking this good.

PurduePete

Sent from my iPhone

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #90 on:** July 02, 2012, 05:49:59 AM »

http://www.66autocolor.com/1K_ACRYLIC_CLEARCOAT_AEROSOL_p/spm-3680058.htm

So for just a clear, the link above would be solvent proof?

PurduePete · « **Reply #91 on:** July 02, 2012, 09:17:50 AM »

No, it is acrylic from just looking at the link title. You need urethane, which is in the 2k section. You also can't just do it with a dust mask, you SHOULD use a full respirator. Stuff is supposed to be dangerous. Haven't done it yet myself.

Plan is to use duplicolor first and get detail done and then 2K clear over it.

PurduePete

Sent from my iPhone

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #92 on:** July 02, 2012, 09:34:29 AM »

Quote from: Sdsbassist on July 02, 2012, 05:49:59 AM

http://www.66autocolor.com/1K_ACRYLIC_CLEARCOAT_AEROSOL_p/spm-3680058.htm

So for just a clear, the link above would be solvent proof?

I don't think so. It's a one part paint and they are usually not solvent proof. They also have the clear in a two part paint that would hold up better to solvents and gas. In theory you should not put a two part catalyzed paint over one part paint as it can lift the paint. Does not seem to be a problem for many who have done it but I would want the underlying one part paint well cured before overcoating. Me...I go with two part all the way, epoxy primer, color coat, and clear if using 2 stage paint. The cost is not all that much greater (for single stage) and you have a more durable finished product.
Clearing up a few terms
2 part or 2K paint.........uses a catalyst for curing and durability
1 part or 1K paint.........air dries by solvent evaporation not as durable
single stage paint.......gloss and color in one paint
two stage paint..........color base coat and then a clear coat for gloss.

Instead of a 2 part clear coat over cheap rattle can junk why not use a single stage 2 part paint and appropriate primer. You put on a few more coats and you don't need the clear coat. The additional coats allows you to buff out the paint years down the road when it needs it. The cost is not that much greater. Two stage paint requires more finesse in applying but gives a very glossy wet look.

lucky · « **Reply #93 on:** July 02, 2012, 10:41:35 AM »

The actual link.....http://www.66autocolor.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=2x+spray+paint&Search.x=8&Search.y=4

2nd product down the page. LUCKY

callbr549 · « **Reply #94 on:** July 04, 2012, 03:40:07 PM »

Any color paint code from any vehicle? Has anyone spotted a vehicle that would match the 1972 sunrise tangerine (or whatever that orange color was)?

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #95 on:** July 04, 2012, 04:01:25 PM »

Weird for some reason I am not getting notifications for this thread when new posts are added. I just saw it on the top of the list by chance...

To answer some questions yes you can spray the clear over pretty much any enamels, laquers ,etc so you can clear over a rattle can job to keep it fuel proof. I use some of that dupli-color "pro series" looking crap that everyone see's at your local autozone a lond time ago before I found out you can get it charged with any paint code with the gloss mixed in . Bear in mind that while the spraymax bonds to most spray paints you are at the mercy of the weakest link in the chain as far as durability and longevity goes. Like if you built a foundation using wood underneath concrete the wood would rot and give way long before the concrete would but since the concrete is layered on top of the wood it then would have a great cavity of weakness . If you wnat it to look nice and stay that way for a long time just scuff the old paint take your time and get it nice and smooth and shoot whatever color you choose and if you want to be able to buff it later clear over it again with another can of pure clear . It also does wonders to metallics to do this as the increased depth really brings out the refraction of the mica.

ALSO NEVER USE SPRAYMAX WITHOUT A RESPIRATOR AS IT CAN MAKE YOU REALLY SICK OR KILL YOU- something no paint job is worth . That would be the wrong kind of "killer Paint Job " man .

I just shot two more bikes a 77cb750 F and a 72 CB350
will post pix soon.

One thing I have found working with these cans is never spray on a remotely moist day. If it just rained, forgetaboutit. Any humidity causes a Major Major reduction in gloss.
Also If shooting in a shop make sure no helmets or camera lenses are anywere in sight . I had a very nice Bell 500 Gloss black that has a light faint mist of Orange you can see in the light ..... and my sony cybershot has mist on the lcd as well. This stuff really atomizes and floats well.

Also I like to do just one semi heavy coat with metallics. You can do a second coat after about 15 minutes. no buffing for me ,looks like glass. If you have a sag or two or if you get some gnats in it who cares, you arent a pro ,right? Also from 5 foot no one will ever know and will be astonished with what you did manage to accomplish anyhow . Least that was my experience....practice makes perfect too!

Vreihenmotor6 · « **Reply #96 on:** July 07, 2012, 02:58:28 PM »

my results:

note I have not color sanded or buffed it out yet

News:

Author Topic: 18 $ paint job (Read 29916 times)