Author Topic: Chain length  (Read 7760 times)

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Offline MCRider

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #50 on: November 15, 2011, 11:16:23 AM »
And for the rear sprocket? Break the nuts loose while the wheel is still in the frame?
Could be easier, shouldn't be necessary. The wheel gives you a lot to hold onto. Should be lock tabs on those rear sprocket nuts that need to be folded down. So on the bike might help.
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Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline longshanks

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #51 on: November 16, 2011, 12:53:31 AM »
Ok so here's my cart with Z1. I'm going 17/48 steel JT sprockets and the X-ring 530 chain. However, I'd almost rather just go with an O-ring chain which I could probably get for around $40-60 right?

Also, whats this? Does it mean I don't need a rivet tool and convert it to master link style?

http://www.z1enterprises.com/530-Chain--RK-split-link-X-Ring-381.aspx
cb450 K5

Offline 70CB750

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #52 on: November 16, 2011, 03:30:22 AM »
You don't have to,  just put it on the ground and kneel on it to stop it from turning. 

Offline longshanks

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #53 on: November 22, 2011, 11:47:52 AM »
Are you sure the bike is a K6?? The chain length and rear sprocket teeth sound like K7/K8, with 630 chain. These had 15 teeth on the front sprocket. You can verify the chain size by measuring the center-to-center distance on the chain rivets. 530=5/8", 630=3/4".
That's a good question, need to confirm what LongShanks has with VIN # etc.

Then I goofed on the chain length. If stock is 100L, then a smaller front sprocket would call for LESS chain not more. So a 98 could be used. However as Spanner says, he used a 100L on a 17/48 combo. That's what i would do. You'll start with your rearwheel a little further back in the dropouts. But with limited chainwear not calling for the full use of the dropouts, you'll appreciate the extra wheelbase I think.

I'm about to buy and I can't decide on whether to go 98 or 100 link. What are dropouts? where the axle bolt goes through?(the space where it's adjusted in the swing arm?)
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Offline 70CB750

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #54 on: November 22, 2011, 01:13:46 PM »
I bought 102 and 17/48 JT.  For my K0 I had to remove 1 but i prefer to be safe.

Offline MCRider

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #55 on: November 22, 2011, 01:45:19 PM »
Are you sure the bike is a K6?? The chain length and rear sprocket teeth sound like K7/K8, with 630 chain. These had 15 teeth on the front sprocket. You can verify the chain size by measuring the center-to-center distance on the chain rivets. 530=5/8", 630=3/4".
That's a good question, need to confirm what LongShanks has with VIN # etc.

Then I goofed on the chain length. If stock is 100L, then a smaller front sprocket would call for LESS chain not more. So a 98 could be used. However as Spanner says, he used a 100L on a 17/48 combo. That's what i would do. You'll start with your rearwheel a little further back in the dropouts. But with limited chainwear not calling for the full use of the dropouts, you'll appreciate the extra wheelbase I think.

I'm about to buy and I can't decide on whether to go 98 or 100 link. What are dropouts? where the axle bolt goes through?(the space where it's adjusted in the swing arm?)
Yes.
Dropout = the part of the frame where the axle "dropsout". Its really a term from bicycling. These pieces are usually flat steel welded to the tubing. The wheel mounts in the "dropout" and the slots allow for adjustment. I've never really seen it in print for motorcycles, but on the 750 at least, it is a perfect use of the term, and so I use it. We have a flat forging welded to a rectangular tube, with an open slot, forming a "dropout". Very few motorcycles allow the dropout function like the 750. had to be that way or you'd have to remove the exhausts to get the wheel off. Bummer.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2011, 01:46:56 PM by MCRider »
Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline longshanks

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #56 on: November 22, 2011, 02:42:34 PM »
Are you sure the bike is a K6?? The chain length and rear sprocket teeth sound like K7/K8, with 630 chain. These had 15 teeth on the front sprocket. You can verify the chain size by measuring the center-to-center distance on the chain rivets. 530=5/8", 630=3/4".
That's a good question, need to confirm what LongShanks has with VIN # etc.

Then I goofed on the chain length. If stock is 100L, then a smaller front sprocket would call for LESS chain not more. So a 98 could be used. However as Spanner says, he used a 100L on a 17/48 combo. That's what i would do. You'll start with your rearwheel a little further back in the dropouts. But with limited chainwear not calling for the full use of the dropouts, you'll appreciate the extra wheelbase I think.

I'm about to buy and I can't decide on whether to go 98 or 100 link. What are dropouts? where the axle bolt goes through?(the space where it's adjusted in the swing arm?)
Yes.
Dropout = the part of the frame where the axle "dropsout". Its really a term from bicycling. These pieces are usually flat steel welded to the tubing. The wheel mounts in the "dropout" and the slots allow for adjustment. I've never really seen it in print for motorcycles, but on the 750 at least, it is a perfect use of the term, and so I use it. We have a flat forging welded to a rectangular tube, with an open slot, forming a "dropout". Very few motorcycles allow the dropout function like the 750. had to be that way or you'd have to remove the exhausts to get the wheel off. Bummer.

Excellent description, thank you! So 98 or 100 link? Does one benefit more than the other?
cb450 K5

Offline MCRider

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #57 on: November 22, 2011, 03:20:39 PM »
Personally, I would use the 100, for this reason. The wheel will start about halfway back ion the dropouts. Over a LONG time the chain will wear and you'll move back a little further but not much. I like the handling with a little length to the wheelbase.

If you start with the 98, even though its the prescribed length, the wheel will be pushed all the way to the front of the dropouts. If it were the old chains, you could expect the wear to cause you to use the whole dropout length. after all Honda put alignment marks down that whole length.

But with the new chain you'll never get back to the halfway point. So you've committed to a short wheelbase for the next 5 to 10,000 miles.

Personal preference.   :D
Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline longshanks

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #58 on: November 22, 2011, 03:35:31 PM »
Personally, I would use the 100, for this reason. The wheel will start about halfway back ion the dropouts. Over a LONG time the chain will wear and you'll move back a little further but not much. I like the handling with a little length to the wheelbase.

If you start with the 98, even though its the prescribed length, the wheel will be pushed all the way to the front of the dropouts. If it were the old chains, you could expect the wear to cause you to use the whole dropout length. after all Honda put alignment marks down that whole length.

But with the new chain you'll never get back to the halfway point. So you've committed to a short wheelbase for the next 5 to 10,000 miles.

Personal preference.   :D

Good point. Thanks again for the tips!   :D
cb450 K5

Offline longshanks

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #59 on: December 06, 2011, 06:34:01 PM »
So the 98 link is too short!   >:(   The wheel is pushed all the way forward into the dropouts and it still needs at least a link. 2 links would have been ideal. Again, for anyone reading this I went with 17/48 JT steel sprockets.
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Offline 70CB750

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Re: Chain length
« Reply #60 on: December 06, 2011, 06:45:08 PM »
Same sprockets and 100 on 1970 CB750.