Topic: Plug wire replacement???

[Chuck Hahn]

I am starting to fix up my 76 750A Hondamatic and notice the plug wires are hard as bricks.  I looked and saw the wires are glued into the coils.  My question is this..Can the wires themselves be replaced?  And if so, whats the proceedure and what should I expect to see inside the coils if i remove the glue and the wires???

[raymond10078]

This site has sooo much information - you'd best look around and search.  You'll most likely find the answer.

The coils on our "A" bikes is the same as other 750's.

I did a search of "coil AND plug AND wire", and found this - third "hit".

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17310.msg278171#msg278171

Other's have found relatively inexpensive NEW coils (at http://www.vintagecb750.com/products/5/electrical/36/ignition-systems-coils-plugs-switches)

[raymond10078]

Also - you should replace the plug caps, too!

[CycleRanger]

The plug wires should be stiff, they have wire in them. 
What I mean is they might be stiffer than you expect, stiffer than car wire wires for example.
As long as the insulating rubber isn't petrified and cracking and the wires aren't broken inside the insulation they are probably fine.
But as was mentioned above definitely get new caps.

[Chuck Hahn]

They are as stiff as a wooden pencil..brittle and hard as can be...they need replaced for sure.

[Chuck Hahn]

And yet another question...the service manual in the 750 area below shows the oil capacity as 5.8 US quarts but doesnt specify what kind.  Am i to assume just your regular car 10W40 is ok???

[raymond10078]

First - go to page 4-4 of the Service Manual.  It specifies an SE car oil.  Later oil designations include friction modifiers to increase mileage.  It has been widely reported that the later designations no longer are designed for motorcycle use.  Quoting another site: "The API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use".

So, for me, no car oil!

I use a JASO oil.  As quoted from another site: "For 4-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use".

Now - LOT's of people will say car oils are OK, and they've never experience clutch slippage.  For my "A", I don't want to risk it - so I don't.

I get my oil from O'Reillys http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9022114&contentId=7040925.

[raymond10078]

I forgot to add - that when changing the oil, you only need 4.2 quarts.  The amount in the converter can't be replaced when doing a normal oil change.

[Chuck Hahn]

I know nothing of the maintenance on this bike as far as what the PO did or didnt do.  I was gonna remove the converter and dump anything in it out. Is there a way to flush or rinse out the converter once its out of the bike?? Fill it with gas and swish it around or maybe laquer thinner as a rinse agent???  Then refill and run for maybve 100 miles or so and do it all again in an attempt to flush as much gunk out as i possibly can.  I looked up those NGK wire adapters and I am thinking these are the easiest way to splice and fix the wire situation.  Cutup near the coil and add them in so as to be hidden once the tank is back on.

[raymond10078]

I had the same concern.

That's not the path I took.  First - just a fact.  After two oil changes, you'll have only 8% of the old oil remaining.  I would just put new oil in, run it a short time, and change it again.  Easier and definitely cheaper.

If you want to go your route, the converter does disassemble - it's not like a sealed/welded unit on cars.

Also - I recommend dropping the pan, cleaning it out, and the oil pump screen.  Depending on how long the bike has sat, that would be a good first thing to do.  This is also recommended in the owner's manual - every 6000 miles (I think).

[Chuck Hahn]

Good to know that a few medium mile oil changes will serve as a "flush" so to speak.  I thinkthats the way I am gonna go.  I got a lot to learn about this bike and the little tricks of the trade.

[Chuck Hahn]

well the dealership still has the coil asemblies in stock so I just ordered a new set.  Its a once every 25 years replacement so what the heck!!!

[BobbyR]

Chuck, Oil is a hot topic here. DO a search and if you have a week you can read all the oil posts.   A lot of people like Diesel Oils since they contain Zinc which car oils can;t and they don't have the friction modifiers. Read some of the posts it will tell you what to look out for on the labels.