Topic: Oh Lordy..I found a CBX. Shoot me!

[750resurrection]

Well okay but if the insert doesn't hold then he either taps or pulls the head, and then still might have to weld.

 His post says he's looking at it through a mirror so maybe it's so cramped there's no chance to tap it anyway.

 A successful tap will be stronger than the original smaller diameter bolt given sufficient side structure, which looks ample to me. So whatever class you're talking about didn't have that correct.

 Or maybe you were referring to his idea of using a bolt to run in on the current threads.

 If he wanted to AVOID the matter entirely, he could put a larger metal ring around the structure, align the tap in that ring with the hole, screw in his longer bolt, and secure the ring with a pinning bolt on the other side of the tube extension. The extending tube has a slight taper, so that must be accounted for in the metal ring.

[750resurrection]

 Let me try that again with something perhaps easier.

 A  U shaped "capped" metal collar that goes around the cam lock lobe, with the capping part of the U resting atop the current bolt hole flat.

 Slide it over the end of the lobe the slide is locked in, and have the flat sit atop that hole, with a tap going directly into that hole through the collar.

 Then he has used what's left of the threads, and has the strength of the other side of the extended lobe assisting the holding the new bolt  to lock the cam tensioner in place.

[toytuff]

OK guys, here is the deal.

I have good threads but just about 8-9 mm of 10/125 pitch. The time sert is 9 mm. Smallest length available in a 10/125 thread. (I need to call Bill at time sert and get the outside diameter on the time sert.) They sell two different time serts. Oversize and standard.

There is two thread pitches inside the boss of the head. If you look at the cam tensioner bolt there is 10/125 down at the head of bolt with dished nut to 8/125 at the top that rides on the cam guide.

The nut is dished to hold the O ring and is also 10/125 pitch.

At this time the 8/125 end is not yet tapped and not sure any threads remain. (at head)

Now, if a time sert is used it becomes a much better deal as far as strength but strength is not really needed here. Better fix.

1) I can purchase a 10/125 Allen head bolt in a length longer than the oem bolt.

2) I have access to a lathe. Figure out how much of the 10/125 threads you need allowing for the nut and the remaining threads in head. (lower threads)

3) Turn the end of the bolt down to either A) 8/125 pitch if threads remain or
B) 7 mm thus running up to the cam guide.

Basically make my own cam bolt using the existing thread pitch(s) in head.

Steve-0, yes you could use the heli coil but a time sert is so much better.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Makes you think and problem solve.

tt

[toytuff]

Well, shoots that idea down. I'll have to call. I have good threads with the heli coil removed.

tt

15. Can I repair a stripped helicoil with a TIME-SERT insert? 
  No, you cannot repair a helicoil with a TIME-SERT. The over-sized line in inserts available is called  BIG-SERT. Please refer to catalog or web page for sizes available.
 

[750resurrection]

 Ok, so the trick there, if you use 2 different sized threads, is getting the spacing between the two threads correct so that turning in the bolt, they line up and don't try to strip each other.

[toytuff]

Ok, so the trick there, if you use 2 different sized threads, is getting the spacing between the two threads correct so that turning in the bolt, they line up and don't try to strip each other.

That is correct.

I'm thinking the best way is to turn the end of the bolt smaller than the 8/125 section of threads.(7mm)

 This way you are seated on the cam guide with your tension adjustment using the lower end of the bolt on the 10/125 threads.

The nut just secures the bolt and the O ring  in the same location as intended. People tend to think this needs to be tight which is not the case thus the problems. Snug is good here.

It has been suggested to use a copper washer between the O ring and head. The washers used on your brake lines is the same size. 

Thoughts?

tt

[750resurrection]

 My only thought now is since you have machining , make several of the new bolts to fit the existing threads, and make your spacing between the 2 thread sizes adjustments slightly different, then carefully try the 3 or 4 guesses for the one that goes right in easily.
 
 So on your (say 3 or 4) new stock bolts, like use the same marked on edge nut spun down to the head, mark the new bolt head, and use that for a thread alignment start machining position.
 A lucky guess might still be needed, splitting the distance across one thread loop 3 or 4 times may still leave something to be desired and therefore binding without a lucky guess.

[toytuff]

I think the best way is to use the bottom threads (10/125) as the adjustment and the top of the bolt turned down under the 8/125 mm thread diameter.

Several different lengths will be used but the main idea is to tension the guide.

It might not succeed but it sounds good in theroy.

Other path? Remove the motor, send head in for fix, valve job and seals. Work, time and a lot of money. 

tt

[750resurrection]

 " Several different lengths will be used but the main idea is to tension the guide. "

 Ahh, yes, so you could make it a hair long, then grind down just the tip for fit. That sounds simple and easily adjustable for fit. The 7mm area would just "slide by" the 8mm threads. Got it.

 If the 10mm area holds and no leaks (yeah no super cranking bet it 'ell be fine), you're good.

 Yeah sounds easy, you won't have to modify the current threads in there. Definitely worth a try. Since your beauty is already running it's worth a shot (or two, with the gasket/ leak issue try a second time maybe if 1st one seeps).
 
 Yep.

[750resurrection]

 I'll say one more thing now. At least by the pic, the 8mm threads look good, with many more there than the 10mm area.

 If need be, and the 10mm doesn't hold, couldn't you do the "reverse" of your idea and use the 8mm threaded area ?
 
 Start with the 10mm bolt, turn down the 8mm area, then take out the remainder to the bolt head down to 9mm.

 Use the exterior flat (copper washer as said?) for the seal.

 Just a thought.

[toytuff]

The cam tensioner problem is solved with no leaking. I just replaced the STI, ran the O ring up against a copper washer. Washer is the same as the lower fork bolt washer. Had a couple on hand. Exact same size.

I did a shakedown ride today to scuff up the new tires and let the new pads set in a bit. The only thing that needed adjusted was the rear brake pedal height. Simple enough huh?

I did have a starter issue. Kept kicking out on me. Never did before so what's up with this! 

Started reading some old posts in the CBX World forums and sure enough Amsoil was the culprit!  Yup. I drained $50.00 worth of oil and put in a sealed container. I'll use it down the road. Added some Dinosaur oil and after a few bumps she fired to life! 

Rode about 40 miles and it ran like a Swiss watch! Oh Lordy! This is awesome!

No leaks, no problems, no worries.  Now on to the saddlebags. Replacing the hardware with some better handles from a spare set I have.

Pic enclosed..enjoy. (still smiling)

tt

[Stev-o]

Good news... x3, glad o hear it.

[RAFster122s]

Glad you have solved it for now.  Best of luck wrapping it up and getting ready for a nice ride!

David

[toytuff]

I must admit that a CBX is quite the job. It's not like you can move to something else while waiting on parts, powder coating, ceramic coating etc. It takes a progression if you will. Not entirely like any build but longer.

To ride this thing is just plain fun. A blast actually. So smooth and sounds so damn good. Wow. I'll be hard pressed to ride anything else. 

Plan on a saddle bag redo soon but just enjoying the cool weather and riding. The 38 tooth rear sprocket was a great choice. If I had it to do over I would go with the Saber windscreen as it is 1 1/2 inch taller. Some wind noise in the helmet with the 17 inch OEM height.  I have read this in different road tests. I will not be changing it. Not that easy or cheap.

 I bought a hand held camera the size of a key fob and did a walk around for a test. Not bad but I'll play with it some more. Looks pretty good full screen for 720p. Florescent lights didn't help however. Makes it look yellow in color.

Type: hondacbx1982

http://s157.beta.photobucket.com/user/runeight/library/CBX%20Video

tt

[RAFster122s]

Cool!  Must be sweet having it on the road.  You'll have to wear the new off or that smile before you will want to ride the other bikes...

[toytuff]

Cool!  Must be sweet having it on the road.  You'll have to wear the new off or that smile before you will want to ride the other bikes...

I don't think that will happen. Better drain the gas out of the 750. 

tt

[toytuff]

ArrrrGgggg!

What next? Quit fighting me! Please stop!

OK, anybody know the valve stem hole diameter? Although I can't pinpoint it the front tire is leaking air slowly. Nothing at the stem with water that I can see.

Goldwings are .453. If I have to break the tire might as well go angled.

I do not want to remove wheels. 

tt

[70CB750]

The cam tensioner problem is solved with no leaking. I just replaced the STI, ran the O ring up against a copper washer. Washer is the same as the lower fork bolt washer. Had a couple on hand. Exact same size.

I did a shakedown ride today to scuff up the new tires and let the new pads set in a bit. The only thing that needed adjusted was the rear brake pedal height. Simple enough huh?

I did have a starter issue. Kept kicking out on me. Never did before so what's up with this! 

Started reading some old posts in the CBX World forums and sure enough Amsoil was the culprit!  Yup. I drained $50.00 worth of oil and put in a sealed container. I'll use it down the road. Added some Dinosaur oil and after a few bumps she fired to life! 

Rode about 40 miles and it ran like a Swiss watch! Oh Lordy! This is awesome!

No leaks, no problems, no worries.  Now on to the saddlebags. Replacing the hardware with some better handles from a spare set I have.

Pic enclosed..enjoy. (still smiling)

tt

Awesome!  Congrats, tt.

[toytuff]

Thank you!

Just time and a Visa Card! (which is now empty)

tt

[toytuff]

For you Stev-o! 

No backrest.

tt

[Stev-o]

Looks nice, but thanks but no thanks.  Sticking to my 750's...

[toytuff]

Looks nice, but thanks but no thanks.  Sticking to my 750's...

That's ok. I just remember once you said the backrest did'nt look right. I agree. Much better.

tt

[BLUE71TURBO]

Looks nice, but thanks but no thanks.  Sticking to my 750's...

That's ok. I just remember once you said the backrest did'nt look right. I agree. Much better.

tt

                  Now try it without the bags and the faring........     Or is the later cbx's different than the earlier cbx's.  Can you remove the faring with out messing with the gauges or headlight ?

[toytuff]

Some have done it but I'm a stock look kind of guy. Fairing for protection, bags for storage. A 1982 is the one I wanted.

Just need the open road.

tt

[RAFster122s]

Getting any riding in with the nicer weather TT?