Topic: New chain needed for a CB550F - what to buy?

[Tim.]

Ok - I've read and read lots of people buying and selling various types of chains, but I've never come to a clear conclusion...

My bike is in the shop, and the very, very nice guys there are telling me I should consider a new chain soon.  I asked about sprockets too, but they say my sprockets are in great shape, and doing the chain only is ok at this point.

So, I'm in the market for a new chain.  What should I buy?  I've heard a lot about o-ring, x-ring, g-string (oops, slipped in) chains, but don't know anything.  If I'm right, these bikes have some sort of controled engine oil drip to lube the chain - if I get a fancy new chain, can I turn that off?

Suggestions / opinions welcomed!

[SteveD CB500F]

I don't think that automatic chain oilers had been invented when these bikes were made - you may have an aftermarket one (Scottoiler?).

I would always replace chain and sprokets together as even a pertly worn sproket will kill a new chain very quickly.

I have a 500 and a 550 and have not replaced a chain for years - I look forward to the advice.

Steve

[Ibsen]

You will find most of your questions about o- and x- ring chains answered here:

http://www.ekchain.com/faqs.htm

I have been running EK o-ring chains with a rivetted master link for a number of years, and the quality is good.
But if you have the extra money to spend, go for the x-ring chain.

Also RK chains are regarded as good quality chains:

http://www.mawonline.com/rk.htm

http://www.sudco.com/chain.html

JT sprockets are good quality sprockets. And they should have the sprockets for most SOCH4's.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/47.0.html

And you can also get aluminium sprockets and RK chains here:

http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/sprocketmain.shtml

[aglick87]

I'll have to agree with the rk idea.  I just bought one and was not disappointed when I took it from the package.  Most all of them are quad riveted and have thicker side plates to reduce stretch.  Although they are already prestretched at the factory.  Not to mention seamless rollers and bushings.  A real grade A product.  And if that isn't enough,  they are manufactured in Japan.  Always trust those japs.  They're the same wheels  rolling underneath you today and 30 years ago.  just my $.02

[Tim.]

Thanks for all the input - will start sourcing a high-quality chain in the near future!

[phylo101]

oh what a mess.....

NEVER replace only one element of the setup - always replaces sprockets AND chain, cos one worm element accelerates the rate at which the new items wear out. Gear teeth are cut specifically to bear on specific parts of the rollers, so worn teeth bear on new rollers at wrong angles etc. so you get fast wear and friction/heat buildup - hence MORE wear.

The way to test a chain for replacement - put bike on centre stand.lift a lnik between finger and thumb at the 2pm position and lift away from the sprocket. If you can see more than half the tooth UNDER the chain...replace soonest. This tip came from a roadracer in the family before he died, here in Northern Ireland - my 2nd cousin one J Dunlop. Tell the shop to feck off.

Ummmm ALL bike chains should have welded rollers - if not youre being flogged machine chain....run away fast. Thick sideplates are only part of the issue, a very small part - its how the chain is heat-treated/hardened that decides if its heavy-duty or not.

Oring and Xring chain on a Four? Expensive trash. With old plain chain whatever you lube it with will get right under the rollers, cos THIS is the important place to lube.Sealed chains mean youre keeping lube OUT of important places.

And give a thot to chain SIZE nowadays - in Ye Good Old Days 530 and 630 chains were fitted cos chains were cheap crap. I did my best ever mod many years ago - fitted 525 psorckets and chain to my K7 - its exactly as strong, AND means I can get competition grade chain cut from a roll at ANY offroad shop. Now ITS heavy-duty!!! Just run it everso slightly looser

NEVER fit alloy sprockets of any sort on a road bike! Or youll be seein that shop a LOT

P.s. Im a motorcycle courier, do a thousand miles a week on various chaindrive bikes. Each summer I pull the K7 out on slack days for a blatt around Belfast against the clock. And the 525 chain I fitted SEVEN years and 35k miles ago is the same one!

As for lube - lube very well and very often. Get something thatll get REALLY in there - I dont like waxes or anything like that. Runny lubes are good, and every third lube I give it a quick run with WD40 to thin it down and really get into the rollers, hen another "normal" dressing. Strangely enuf, chainsaw lube is GREAT! but itll fly around a bit if you like a pristine bike :-(

Phylo

[bryanj]

"O" ring chain on a 500/550 is at your own risk as because the chain is wider it will rub on the crankcase and sproket seal. If the money is tight a medium quality chain on the old sprokets will last a few thousand whilst you save up to put a quality chain with new sprockets on. For now just a normal 530 HD chain from just about any of the Jap makers would be OK and if you buy it from a bike shop of over the net as bike chain they are in deep do do if they sell you machine quality.