Topic: Well D*&#, POR-15 Gas Tank Repair is failing at the seams after 8 months.

[VTCBike750]

Well I took a look in my gas tank today to see how my POR15 liner was holding up.  It was a long PITA project that I would like to never revisit unless I have to. The Tank had seen better days when I first got it, a failing Kreme liner and a good amount of rust.




So after a lot of Acetone (should of used MEK), I got it to look like this:


And After POR15 this:



Followed the directions per Tim perfectly, http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=1586.0;nowap.  His directions only digressed from the manufacture's by increasing the amount of time the marine clean is in the tank. I was very happy with results until today.

After 8 months later I find this:




The POR15 liner is coming apart at the seams.  Ive already emailed the company so we'll see what they have to say.
Anyone else have any experience with this and does anyone have any solutions?

Thanks,
Adam

[ekpent]

Adam, kind of hard to see in the pics but is there any sign of rust under the POR in those seams that may be contributing to that film failure? I have cleaned a lot of tanks and also notice that unless the tank was dried very well,I used a power blower set up,that moisture can linger along those seams for quite awhile.Hopefully that was not the case in your prep.

[onepieceatatime]

There is a failed Kreem liner in my tank. I just ordered this http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm to seal it after that is cleaned out.

[VTCBike750]

But I have a failing POR-15 liner inside now. Which Ive heard is nearly impossible to get out.

[DH]

I posted this very problem several months ago with POR 15.
Mine took longer to break down, but started just like yours. New professional paint on the tank too. A total crap shoot on my part,
I filled the tank with white vinegar completely and left it sit for two weeks. After that, it peeled out completely, and left the tank looking
the original color inside and rust free (as far as I can tell). I'm gonna stay tuned to this thread, interested in your results. Hope you have
good luck.

[Ernest T]

Did you use Metal Ready after the marine clean?  Also you should use multiple washes of Marine Clean until it comes out clear.

[VTCBike750]

Adam, kind of hard to see in the pics but is there any sign of rust under the POR in those seams that may be contributing to that film failure? I have cleaned a lot of tanks and also notice that unless the tank was dried very well,I used a power blower set up,that moisture can linger along those seams for quite awhile.Hopefully that was not the case in your prep.

I dont see how the rust would get underneath the liner to cause a failure. Metal Ready is supposed to take care of that. Plus put the tank through electrolysis to remove rust as well prior to treatment.
I got it as dry as I could, maybe a little overboard. Killed one blowdryer. I dried it out, got the tank hot, let it cool and repeated...for a while

I posted this very problem several months ago with POR 15.
Mine took longer to break down, but started just like yours. New professional paint on the tank too. A total crap shoot on my part,
I filled the tank with white vinegar completely and left it sit for two weeks. After that, it peeled out completely, and left the tank looking
the original color inside and rust free (as far as I can tell). I'm gonna stay tuned to this thread, interested in your results. Hope you have
good luck.

White vinegar took it out? Was there rust under the liner that the vinegar could react with. hmmmm?

Did you use Metal Ready after the marine clean?  Also you should use multiple washes of Marine Clean until it comes out clear.

Hmmmm well since the kit only comes with one application of Marine Clean I did the best I could.  I definitely used the metal ready. Followed the kits instructions from the beginning.


Anyone know if you can add POR-15 over this? I still have the left over Marine Clean and Metal Ready.

[onepieceatatime]

But I have a failing POR-15 liner inside now. Which Ive heard is nearly impossible to get out.

Instructions for the caswell:

When recoating your gas tank from failed Kreem or POR-15 tank sealers, remove the old, failed coating using a paint stripper containing Methylene Chloride.

Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion.

Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air into the tank to aid drying.

[VTCBike750]

There is a failed Kreem liner in my tank. I just ordered this http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm to seal it after that is cleaned out.

I chose POR-15 since I heard it was great with ethanol based fuels.  Let us know how this turns out.

[Prospect]

Anyone else have any experience with this and does anyone have any solutions?

Thanks,
Adam

I've had terrible results with POR 15 and now only have it done professionally.  I know some people love it but it's never worked for me.  I called the company to find out why it failed after a week and they said that sometimes on old tanks it's difficult to know what was inside it and that POR 15 might now work.  I asked him to send me a replacement kit but I never heard from them or received a kit.  I had to get it professionally removed which is only an option if the paint is shot (which it was).  I'm not sure what you'd do to remove the liner on a nice paint job tank because they basically boil the tank whole.

[DH]

White vinegar took it out? Was there rust under the liner that the vinegar could react with. hmmmm?



White vinegar yes. It started developing the rusty look at a seam, like rust was reforming underneath the edge of the coating. And yes, I prepped the tank extensively as per the instructions. My tank was about 1/3 full of fuel. The gas we buy around this area all contains up to 10%ethanol, but I have no idea if that matters. The fuel was fairly old, but the bike is stored inside
my house with little to no humidity change or temp variances. Tank looked fine for months (I checked periodically/consistantly) till the last time I checked
and discovered everything was goin to hell. And the seam where the break down started was submerged in fuel.

[VTCBike750]

Well I got a response back from POR-15. Basically they said there are 3 things that can cause the product to fail:

1. The tank was not cleaned and prepped properly.
2. The inside of the tank was not dry enough prior to pouring in the sealer.
3. Puddling inside of the tank. If the sealer is too heavy in some areas the product will not dry properly and may fail down the road.

Then they suggested, "We offer a Heavy Duty Kit that includes our stripper which will remove our sealer." They then offered free shipping and handling. 

I've had terrible results with POR 15 and now only have it done professionally.  I know some people love it but it's never worked for me.  I called the company to find out why it failed after a week and they said that sometimes on old tanks it's difficult to know what was inside it and that POR 15 might now work.  I asked him to send me a replacement kit but I never heard from them or received a kit.  I had to get it professionally removed which is only an option if the paint is shot (which it was).  I'm not sure what you'd do to remove the liner on a nice paint job tank because they basically boil the tank whole.

So since I did everything I could to do it right the first time around, I don't think that I will be trying it again. Maybe get it professionally done. The paint looks ok from a distance, but not so great up close.  It has started to bubble up in some areas. So regardless, repainting it is in my near future. I just have to learn how first 

Im wondering if it would just be easier/better in the long run to just get another tank with less rust or attempt to still use this tank.

Where would I look to get the tank professionally sealed?  Autobody shop? And does anyone know how much it typically costs?

[BeSeeingYou]

I think radiator repair shops will do it but no idea about cost. 

In the photos the coating looks rough like it's covering up a rusty surface.  Do the prep products remove all the corrosion before applying the final coating?  IMO all the corrosion has to be removed for these products to work long term regardless of what the manufacturer says.

[dave500]

my por 15 is four years old and fine,,the prep has to be perfect,my tank inside looked like new raw steel after i dried it from the final rinse,and it had been half full of rusty chunky leaded petrol since 1991 i think.

[VTCBike750]

In the photos the coating looks rough like it's covering up a rusty surface.  Do the prep products remove all the corrosion before applying the final coating?  IMO all the corrosion has to be removed for these products to work long term regardless of what the manufacturer says.

The tank had some serious rust underneath the old kreme liner.  After the acetone, toilet scrub brush, and electrolysis the bottom of the tank was solid, but definitely not SMOOTH. Don't know what more I could have done.  The Metal Ready is an acid that neutralizes the rust but also lays a zinc coating to enable the sealer adhesion.

my por 15 is four years old and fine,,the prep has to be perfect,my tank inside looked like new raw steel after i dried it from the final rinse,and it had been half full of rusty chunky leaded petrol since 1991 i think.

My tank was no where near looking like smooth shiny metal after the metal prep.  It had the characteristic black reduced rust with a light silverish zinc coating.
What made you want to seal it if it looked like new?

[Stev-o]

I have also heard radiator shops can boil it. Cut your losses and start shopping for a new tank.
There are still good tanks out there.

By the way, did you ever use the tank and you lined it?

[Rigid]

You mentioned the tank paint is bubbling.  That is rust pits leaking fuel under the paint.  I bet if you stripped the outside for repaint, then cleaned the inside again with acid, it would leak like a screen door.  New tank = $30.00.  I would much rather deal with dents and dings than rust.

[Really?]

My POR 15 liner does not look as thin as what I see in the pics.  I did have to do it twice to get it to stick.  I am betting the first time I did not let it dry enough.  I waited about a week for it to dry.  I think it was about a three week process for me to do.  POR's instructions are not the same per what info you get and the site - at least when I did it.  So, following their instructions to the T helped me fail the first time.

[bollingball]

Even if it sits a month there is moisture in the air you need heat to dry it real good and don't wait to long after the heat to do the next step. I have a tank I did about 10yrs. ago still fine. Getting and keeping it dry is the MOST IMPORTANT step IMO

                                             Ken

[dave500]

In the photos the coating looks rough like it's covering up a rusty surface.  Do the prep products remove all the corrosion before applying the final coating?  IMO all the corrosion has to be removed for these products to work long term regardless of what the manufacturer says.

The tank had some serious rust underneath the old kreme liner.  After the acetone, toilet scrub brush, and electrolysis the bottom of the tank was solid, but definitely not SMOOTH. Don't know what more I could have done.  The Metal Ready is an acid that neutralizes the rust but also lays a zinc coating to enable the sealer adhesion.

my por 15 is four years old and fine,,the prep has to be perfect,my tank inside looked like new raw steel after i dried it from the final rinse,and it had been half full of rusty chunky leaded petrol since 1991 i think.

My tank was no where near looking like smooth shiny metal after the metal prep.  It had the characteristic black reduced rust with a light silverish zinc coating.
What made you want to seal it if it looked like new?

i wanted to be sure,a lot of flakes of rust came out when i flushed it over and over and i guess where you cant see must have been thinner from material loss,even the pitted areas inside i could see were grey and fresh looking,not a sceric of rust,i had mine full of mollasses for a month,with a good shake every few days.

[VTCBike750]

By the way, did you ever use the tank and you lined it?

Yup, Used it all riding season.  Got the tank in rough shape, lined it, and rode all season.

Even if it sits a month there is moisture in the air you need heat to dry it real good and don't wait to long after the heat to do the next step. I have a tank I did about 10yrs. ago still fine. Getting and keeping it dry is the MOST IMPORTANT step IMO

                                             Ken

OH I lined it immediately after drying.  8 months later the tank is out and empty. Thats when I noticed the split at the seams.

i had mine full of molasses for a month,with a good shake every few days.

That's a technique that Id like to try.

I think it was about a three week process for me to do.  POR's instructions are not the same per what info you get and the site - at least when I did it.  So, following their instructions to the T helped me fail the first time.

Thats pretty much how I feel.  I did it in April and took the Bike out in late May. Plenty of time to dry before use though.

You mentioned the tank paint is bubbling.  That is rust pits leaking fuel under the paint.  I bet if you stripped the outside for repaint, then cleaned the inside again with acid, it would leak like a screen door.  New tank = $30.00.  I would much rather deal with dents and dings than rust.

Thats the point Im Getting to. I think Im just gonna chalk this up to a learning experience.  Leave the tank lining to the professionals. So when it fails, not my fault.

Not to mention, Ive heard of people lining tanks as a preventative measure, but with the potential to go wrong, I don't think Ill go down that road.

[ekpent]

Red-Kote      

[VTCBike750]

Heard of it. Thanks

[Trav-i]

+1 on Red Kote.  Super easy to use and apply, worked wonders on my seriously thin F tank.  It got me through the summer with no major problems.  It's easily available from O'reilly Auto Parts, our local store had to order it for me though and it only took 2 hours to get there.  Price is right too only about $26 for a quart container, which is more then enough to do a tank.

Travis

[Really?]

There was some red stuff in the tank that was melting and peeling when I got the bike.  It gummed up the petcock, hoses, carbs, carb boots and you can see a trail of it down each intake.  I have no idea what it was other than red.  I though I would never get rid of it.  When I poured the POR stripper in it, it crackled a lot and looked like red crystals.