Topic: Drive Chain Adjustment and Care?

[stereosilence]

So, I'm still trying to get up to speed on my bike. I've been riding it and having a great time.

The chain and sprockets need replacing I think, but it is probably too big a job for me right now. However, I think some maintenance might help it out.

Is there an easy way to adjust the chain tension? Is it advisable to use lithium grease on it? Clymer says SAE30 but that sounds messy and like it would pick up a lot of dirt.

What is the best way to maintain a drive chain?

[grcamna2]

What model Honda do you have ?

[stereosilence]

1975 CB550K. I have it on my profile now...

[dhall57]

Lubrication and proper adjustment, but if chain and sprockets are all ready wore out all you can do is replace them. It's amazing how much better and more quite your bike will be with new sprockets and chain. I replaced mine shortly after I got my 750K6 and its not that difficult. I sure you could do it also

[grcamna2]

OK...then you're using the standard non-Oring chain?,well either way:  Buy some good quality motorcycle only chain lube and apply it to your drive chain w/ the bike on the centerstand(if you have one);it helps to take it for a little ride before you do this to get things warmed up & moving in the rollers.Then apply it to the "inside" row of the chain so when you ride it the centrifugal force of the spinning chain flings it deeper into the rollers, & apply it sparingly & evenly along both out side edges of the chain.Then let it kind of dry for 1/2 hr. and you should be good to go.The chain needs it at about every 350 miles or every time you ride through the rain.I usually do this and check if it needs the freeplay adjusted at the same time(3/4 - 1'' at the high spot of the chain run is good)and that should make your chain last longer.It also helps to adjust the chain so that the axle is exactly the same distance on both sides of your swingarm according to the reference marks on both sides of it.

[70CB750]

I would strongly suggest to replace the chain and sprocket if it needs replacing.  Not only for the safety aspect but the bike will feel much more responsive and solid whne you do that.

It is not a hard job, if you adjust the chain, you are already half way there.

[stereosilence]

So, is SAE 30 the best thing to use for general purpose lubricant?

[MCRider]

AS to adjusting, easy is a relative term. At its worst its not a hard job. All the manuals cover it. But there is one item I have a big issue with and always bring it up in threads like these.

Use the center stand. Loosen the axle, not so much its sloppy, but enough it will respond when you turn the adjusters. The adjusters will pull the wheel backwards. You should turn the adjusters one flat (1/6 of a turn) and check the chain. At its lower run you should be able to move the chain up and down about 1 inch. A flat at a time when you reach the proper slack, tighten the axle. A CB750 sb about 75ft lbs. This is quite a lot. Don't shortcut it. The adjusters are not to be expected to hold the wheel in place. That is done by the axle. Then tighten the lock nuts on the adjusters. THEN adjust your rear brake and brake light switch, as it will have changed as the wheel moves back.

Now here's the problem. If you do it this way, when you drop the bike off the stand, the chain will be way too tight. That is because the wheel moves thru an arc. With the bike on the stand the wheel is as close to the drive sprocket as it ever will be. Putting weight on the bike raises the wheel thru its arc and it moves away from the drive sprocket tightening the chain.  This will put a strain on everything, the chain, the drive sprocket bearing, the wheel dampeners and the rear wheel bearings.

IMO, you should adjust the chain with weight on the bike once. You may need a helper. THEN, raise it on the stand and see how much slack there is. That will forever more be your bogey.

[grcamna2]

AS to adjusting, easy is a relative term. At its worst its not a hard job. All the manuals cover it. But there is one item I have a big issue with and always bring it up in threads like these.

Use the center stand. Loosen the axle, not so much its sloppy, but enough it will respond when you turn the adjusters. The adjusters will pull the wheel backwards. You should turn the adjusters one flat (1/6 of a turn) and check the chain. At its lower run you should be able to move the chain up and down about 1 inch. A flat at a time when you reach the proper slack, tighten the axle. A CB750 sb about 75ft lbs. This is quite a lot. Don't shortcut it. The adjusters are not to be expected to hold the wheel in place. That is done by the axle. Then tighten the lock nuts on the adjusters. THEN adjust your rear brake and brake light switch, as it will have changed as the wheel moves back.

Now here's the problem. If you do it this way, when you drop the bike off the stand, the chain will be way too tight. That is because the wheel moves thru an arc. With the bike on the stand the wheel is as close to the drive sprocket as it ever will be. Putting weight on the bike raises the wheel thru its arc and it moves away from the drive sprocket tightening the chain.  This will put a strain on everything, the chain, the drive sprocket bearing, the wheel dampeners and the rear wheel bearings.

IMO, you should adjust the chain with weight on the bike once. You may need a helper. THEN, raise it on the stand and see how much slack there is. That will forever more be your bogey.

Thanks MCRider,
        How do you find the tight spot in a worn set of chain & sprockets? I know it's easier when it's on the centerstand; can you lower the cycle off the centerstand while still maintaining that same tight spot? possibly a reference/paint mark somewhere ?

[MCRider]

Of course if you have a tighty loosey chain, its time to replace the chain.      Sprockets too but I am in the every 2nd or 3rd chain camp. (Lonely camp)

But assuming you want to keep that chain, yeah I'd just find the tight spot on the centerstand and mark it someway. A small piece of safety wire wrapped around the outward sideplate, would be easy for me.

[SohRon]

This is the procedure for chain adjustment as delineated in the CB550 Owners Manual. I think the '500 procedure is most likely the same. I've highlighted what I believe are the most salient points


The procedure for drive chain adjustment is as follows:
a. Place the motorcycle in its center stand, with transmission in neutral
b. Remove the cotter pin from the rear axle nut and loosen the nut
c. Loosen lock nuts on both adjusting bolts
d. Turn both adjusting bolts an equal number of turns until the correct drive chain tension is obtained. Turn adjusting bolts clockwise to tighten the chain, or counterclockwise to provide more slack

Adjust to provide approximately 3/4 inch (20mm) of [minimum] chain slack at a point midway between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Rotate the wheel and recheck slack at other sections of the chain.  Slack must not be less than 3/4 inch (20mm) at a point midway between the sprockets, regardless of the chain section at which measurement is taken

e. Check rear axle alignment with the index marks on the rear swinging arm. Both left and right marks should correspond. If the axle appears misaligned, turn the left or right adjusting bolt until marks correspond on both sides of the rear swinging arm.
f. Tighten both adjusting bolt lock nuts
g. Tighten the axle nut and install the cotter pin
h. Check the rear brake pedal free travel. When the rear wheel is repositioned to adjust drive chain slack, brake pedal free travel is also affected
i. Remove the motorcycle from its center stand. While sitting on the machine, roll it forward or back to be certain there are no tight spots in the chain

With the motorcycle on its wheels and laden with the driver's weight, the rear swinging arm moves toward a horizontal position, and drive chain slack decreases. Drive chain slack should not be less than 1/2 inch (13mm) with the motorcycle on its wheels and laden.

Check the "maintenance" section of your Owner's Manual.

[MCRider]

Wow, SohRon: That's the best I've ever read, and inan Owner's Manual? Very good. Thank you.

Just as mine was full of holes, this one has a few. If one finds themselves needing to loosen the adjusters from going too far tight, be sure to tap the wheel at the axle, to push the wheel forward and take up the slack between the adjusters and the axle. Then start over.

I feel vindicated, the last part in bold is my point. While i don't know on the 500/550, I think you'll find that the difference between 1/2 slack laden and the slack when on the stand is more than 1/4". But the point is to be mindful.

[SohRon]

Well, I think there's some room for fudging on this. I can't help but believe the final "laden" measurement is going to vary depending on the weight of the rider (150 lbs vs 250, if you get my drift). I guess you need a helper that's of a similar weight to sit on the bike while the final measurement is taken.

I thought the points re: rotating the wheel while on the stand and again on the ground were good, as I've certainly noticed that the chain does get tighter at some points in its travel than others.

[MCRider]

Well, I think there's some room for fudging on this. I can't help but believe the final "laden" measurement is going to vary depending on the weight of the rider (150 lbs vs 250, if you get my drift). I guess you need a helper that's of a similar weight to sit on the bike while the final measurement is taken.

I thought the points re: rotating the wheel while on the stand and again on the ground were good, as I've certainly noticed that the chain does get tighter at some points in its travel than others.

What you want is enough weight to get the swingarm out to horizontal. And that will be different on different bikes, spring weights vary.

As to the tightsy loosey chain, this is a symptom of one thing (99.9% of the time) and that's chain wear. A new chain won't have it, (or shouldn't have it anyway) and it gets worse from there. You do want to adjust to the tightest point.

[grcamna2]

I have read a few years ago somewhere(I think it was Motorcyclist mag?) that one guy marked the tight spot on the drive chain he was running w/ a white paint spot in a certain position on the rear sprocket (he may have marked the sprocket in the same place) which was always at the same tight spot for every complete revolution of the drive chain;what I mean "by every complete revolution of the drive chain" is...watching the master/connector link as you turn the wheel while on the centerstand & seeing it turn all the way around.The article went on to say that it helped him when he was in a hurry or on a road trip to easily determine how to get his chain slack just right.
I like the idea of NEW chain & sprockets ! The above would just be to get the last good miles out of your old chain & sprockets...but certainly no substitute for FRESH New parts !

[MCRider]

Marking the chain like that, for that purpose is a good idea. I'd think paint might come off.  a wrap of safety wire would be more permanent. We used to be required to safety wire the clip onto our masterlinks to race, so done right it doesn't interfere with anything.

But paint works. And I'm all for squeezing the last bit out, as long as its not a safety issue. Like a REALLY worn chain.

You check that by putting the bike on the centerstand in neutral. Then push up hard on the lower run. Then pull the chain away from the sprocket at 3:00 PM. If you can pull the chain away far enough that you can see daylight between it and the sprocket, you REALLY need a new one.   

[grcamna2]

  +1

[Trevor from Warragul]

If you want the chain to last a long time you should also clean it every so often.  WD40 & paper towels work really well.  Chain lube and/or oil mixed with dirt makes a VERY abrasive paste!

Trevor

[stereosilence]

Heh. Every reply involves the word "centerstand". Guess what I don't have...

[70CB750]

Join the club. I use come along in the barn to lift it on cinder block with board on top of it. Somebody here uses ratchet strap to the same purpose or a jack.

[TwoTired]

Heh. Every reply involves the word "centerstand". Guess what I don't have...

Guess what you'll have to buy...

As for lube.  I can recommend PJ1 chain lube.
End of ride day while chain is hot, put on swing arm stand, apply PJ1 to inside of chain while rotating.  Newsprint on floor under chain if you are sloppy.

It goes on thin, then the thinning solvents evaporate leaving a thick sticky tough film.  If you get fly off on the next day ride, then clean it off with mineral spirits.

[orange550]

I use spray on chain wax. Not sure if this si right, but I hear lots of good things.

I adjust my chain while it's on the side stand. Then like back in the motocross days, I lean my chest over the seat, grab the swing arm and pull down to compress the shocks. Then I check the chain tension. If it's already too tight like this, then it's too tight once you hit a few big bumps in the road. It's harder to compress these shocks then on a moto, but it's still somewhat helpful to check for tension.

[florence]

The very best way to keep your chain and sprockets in tip top condition is to fit a Scottoiler.  I have one and must say it is absolutely marvellous.  They make chains and sprockets last a very long time.  I ride my machine through the British winter which, with it's combination of salted roads and serious amounts of mud, is pretty touch on machinery.

[florence]

What is there about it that cannot work?  It constantly applies oil to the chain.  Perhaps the testers had not set it up correctly?

[Deltarider]

It's too long ago and I cannot reproduce that article. Therefore I removed my previous post.
Question: why don't motorcycle manufacturers mount this device if it works so well?