Author Topic: Can someone actually help me?  (Read 4469 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline dave500

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 17,180
  • WHAT?no gravy?
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #25 on: December 04, 2011, 12:37:46 AM »
do the gl1000 run a 12 volt on crank/start and say 8-10 volts on run via a switchable ballast similar to older cars bryanj?

Offline bryanj

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 14,524
  • CB500 Number 1000036
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #26 on: December 04, 2011, 06:55:43 AM »
From memory yes Dave, I do have an "executive" to re-buid sometime and at least 2 Honda manuals here so given incentive i could look it up!
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline jonboycox

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 78
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #27 on: December 04, 2011, 07:59:52 PM »
I have an old set of coils from a bin of Honda parts I purchase awhile ago. How can I tell if the coils are from a GL1000? Is there  a part number on the coil to look for? I see one on the posted pic that I will check, but is there any other way to tell? They do look very similar.

Offline Deltarider

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 8,303
  • ... but some animals are more equal than others.
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #28 on: December 05, 2011, 04:13:09 AM »
Quote
do the gl1000 run a 12 volt on crank/start and say 8-10 volts on run via a switchable ballast similar to older cars bryanj?
Quote
From memory yes Dave, I do have an "executive" to re-buid sometime and at least 2 Honda manuals here so given incentive i could look it up!
Is any of you capable of producing the wiring diagram of that old Goldwing setup? I wonder how much Ohms and how many Watts that resistor is and I suppose there's some diode involved.
CB500K2-ED Excel black
"There is enough for everyone's need but not enough for anybody's greed."

Offline josephus

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 44
  • OLD BLUE
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #29 on: December 19, 2011, 12:19:10 PM »
have you tried stripping some of the outer most rubber off it doesnt seem like it but some of the cheap induction lights have a hard time picking the pulse up. dont strip it to the core just the outer most layer. its just a thought ive had to do this on my own bike.

Offline HondaMan

  • Someone took this pic of me before I became a
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 14,786
  • ...not my choice, I was nicknamed...
    • Getting 'em Back on the Road
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #30 on: December 19, 2011, 04:56:58 PM »
Quote
do the gl1000 run a 12 volt on crank/start and say 8-10 volts on run via a switchable ballast similar to older cars bryanj?
Quote
From memory yes Dave, I do have an "executive" to re-buid sometime and at least 2 Honda manuals here so given incentive i could look it up!
Is any of you capable of producing the wiring diagram of that old Goldwing setup? I wonder how much Ohms and how many Watts that resistor is and I suppose there's some diode involved.

There is a bypass relay that shunts across the resistor(s) at startup, much like old cars like Chevys, which used the starter solenoid with extra contacts for the purpose. The resistors are between 1.50 and 2.2 ohms on the several Gold Wings I have measured, depending on the year.

Interestingly, some riders have reported better starting when the relay fails, especially with our ethanol-laced fuels. This is likely due to the resistors providing a longer-duration spark by slowing down the discharge decay via the condensor when a resistor is involved. Some old airplanes also did this.
See SOHC4shop.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book
Link to My CB500/CB550 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?sortBy=RELEVANCE&page=1&q=my+cb550+book&pageSize=10&adult_audience_rating=00
Link to website: https://sohc4shop.com/  (Note: no longer at www.SOHC4shop.com, moved off WWW. in 2024).

Offline 78 k550

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,479
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #31 on: December 19, 2011, 05:14:22 PM »
GL1000 coils are just like the 750's in they cant be changed out, there sealed wire to coil.
The GL1100 you can swap out wires.

Paul
Paul
Littleton, CO

76/77 CB 750F, 
75 GL1000, (AKA GL1-242 NGWClub),
76 GL1000 LTD
84 GL1200 Standard
6 Bultaco's= 42, 49, 121, 152, 167, 188

Offline Mainer4

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 22
  • 1975 CB400f and 1975 CB750F
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #32 on: December 20, 2011, 07:43:10 AM »
It would be interesting to ohm out the "dead" coil and compare it to the "good" coil.  Have you confirmed that the coil is really bad as opposed to a bad voltage to the coil or loss of ground?  I have experienced both on my 400F at various times.  Definitely sounds like the 1-4 spark voltage was too low to trigger your light, but not low enough to affect engine operation.  Wonder if both plug boots are actually 5K?
In Christ

Offline jonboycox

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 78
Re: Can someone actually help me?
« Reply #33 on: December 27, 2011, 11:13:44 AM »
I checked the plug boots individualy and they where all OK. I am also not %100 that the coils are bad, but the wire powering the coil and the wires leading out to the points all check positive for continuity. I guess the coils I have are for a GL1100 because the wires are replaceable. Since I purchased them with a  bunch of other parts I needed a while ago, the best way for me to check if the coil is indeed bad or not is to just replace and see what happens, not a major operation. Does any one have any tips on installing coils? It seems pretty straight forward aside from carving a bit of plastic so the tank fits back on. Does the positive to negative have any effect? I suppose they should work regardless of which side the power come in from. Usually power should go to the positive terminal I suppose.