Author Topic: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored  (Read 493489 times)

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Offline DFR

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2700 on: December 31, 2015, 11:06:30 AM »
Dusterdude, Sam and all, Have a Happy and Prosperous New Year !!!!

don in ohio

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2701 on: December 31, 2015, 04:54:55 PM »
Thanks don,you too and sam,you as well
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Offline DFR

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2702 on: January 22, 2016, 05:03:44 PM »
  ???

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2703 on: January 22, 2016, 09:32:45 PM »
OK, Christmas and New Year are done.

Let's make REVs!
:D
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Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2704 on: January 23, 2016, 06:29:10 AM »
Had a couple of setbacks late December on the rear wheel but getting real close now to completed.

Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2705 on: January 23, 2016, 07:04:21 AM »
Hope you're OK Keith, happy New Year.
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Offline DFR

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2706 on: February 18, 2016, 09:59:00 AM »
It's cold here, just recovering from 10-12 inches of snow so " Any news is good news "

don in ohio

Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2707 on: February 18, 2016, 03:45:29 PM »
This was the last news I heard Don, The oil tank on the AT&SF was saved a few days ago.
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Offline Bill/BentON Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2708 on: February 18, 2016, 06:54:40 PM »
Stay tuned,  things been moving along, but I'll let the powers to be tell you!  Hehe , pics maybe?
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Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2709 on: February 18, 2016, 07:24:01 PM »
I'll start posting some pics next week as the parts are being finished. Got the hub and caliper hanger back from anodizing yesterday. The color is Fast Gold but it is darker than I had hoped for. The caliper hanger was made from 6061-T5 plate and the hub from 6061-T5 bar. The machined bar accepted the hard anodizing color significantly better than the plate. I had to get the hub back to measure the coating buildup prior to finishing the ID's on the sprocket and disk so they both fit snugly on the hub. All of the rear wheel assembly parts are finally coming together.

Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2710 on: February 19, 2016, 12:56:08 AM »
Nice one Keith ;)
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Offline DFR

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2711 on: February 19, 2016, 05:01:45 AM »
Thanks Sam and Keith. Looking forward to pics.


Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2712 on: February 19, 2016, 09:21:05 AM »
Keith, I hope YOUR hub is a good fit in MY wheel so it can follow DONS front end. hahaha.

Sam. ;)
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Offline gschuld

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2713 on: February 19, 2016, 09:56:23 AM »
That's good news.  Always interested in progress reports. 8)  Nice going Keith.

George

Offline RP

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2714 on: February 19, 2016, 01:50:09 PM »
I'll start posting some pics next week as the parts are being finished. Got the hub and caliper hanger back from anodizing yesterday. The color is Fast Gold but it is darker than I had hoped for. The caliper hanger was made from 6061-T5 plate and the hub from 6061-T5 bar. The machined bar accepted the hard anodizing color significantly better than the plate. I had to get the hub back to measure the coating buildup prior to finishing the ID's on the sprocket and disk so they both fit snugly on the hub. All of the rear wheel assembly parts are finally coming together.

I always thought anodizing was a dye type process and did not have a build up that would affect tolerances?
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Offline gschuld

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2715 on: February 19, 2016, 04:15:49 PM »
Russ Collins, NHRA Superdrags, 1974

George

Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2716 on: February 19, 2016, 05:00:53 PM »
.....
I always thought anodizing was a dye type process and did not have a build up that would affect tolerances?

There are many different anodizing specs. You are probably thinking about a chromate type colored anodizing that has negligible buildup and provides very little surface protection if any. Hard anodizing causes the aluminum surface to become rather hard, typically ranging from 50 to 70 Rockwell C.

The hardness was so similar between the aluminum wheel and the aluminum hub that they wanted to gall when rubbed on each other. So, I had the hub and caliper mount hard anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type III, Class 2 Hard W/Color. It goes half in and half out - 50%-buildup & 50%-penetration. My research indicated this spec usually produces a TOTAL buildup of .0015" but could go as high as .005". The technician at Surface Techniques told me it would build up .0015" per SURFACE or .003" TOTAL. Either he was wrong or WE had a failure to communicate. The actual buildup was .0015" TOTAL or .00075" per SURFACE. Due to the ambiguity, I wanted to get the hub back and measured before finishing the mating parts.


Offline RP

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2717 on: February 21, 2016, 02:41:42 PM »
Good info Keith.... I did not know the hard anodizing could be done in colors, I assumed it could only be done in black or maybe clear.
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Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2718 on: February 21, 2016, 03:32:45 PM »
Yes, the Class 2 of that spec means w/Color. The color options from Surface Techniques: http://www.surfacetechnique.com/color-options.htm

Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2719 on: February 21, 2016, 05:34:04 PM »
Yes, the Class 2 of that spec means w/Color. The color options from Surface Techniques: http://www.surfacetechnique.com/color-options.htm

Hi Keith, how much more expensive is hard anodizing than normal anodizing and, the gold in that link is a color I would like on some rims, is this better/ more resilient  than normal anodizing for aluminum wheels  ...?
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Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2720 on: February 21, 2016, 06:41:22 PM »
Hi Keith, 1. how much more expensive is hard anodizing than normal anodizing and, 2. the gold in that link is a color I would like on some rims, 3. is this better/ more resilient  than normal anodizing for aluminum wheels  ...?

Hi RR,

1. I don't know. The ID of Russ' hub was finished machined and had to be masked off. The bearing surfaces and retainer ring threads (not advisable to hard anodize threads) remain raw 6061. It cost $92.00 to get the hub and caliper bracket anodized including the hub ID masking. Use to get all flavors of it done per Customer specs on a commercial basis but never really compared prices between specs. Never had just "bling" work done for myself. Maybe "Billy Bling" knows.

2. The colors tend to be a bit darker than the webpage samples with hard anodizing is my experience. The hub is darker but shiny. The caliper bracket turned out really dull but I don't have time to make another one right now. They were processed in the same batch. Their difference was rolled plate versus machined bar. I used to do the blue hard on a regular basis for a customer and it was a little darker than their webpage samples but nice and shiny. Another customer used the decorative only gold version and it was always shiny and bright.

3. I don't know. Not sure what spec is normally used to anodize rims. The hard anodizing produces a fairly hard and rugged surface. The hard anodized layer is thicker than plain vanilla colored anodizing. The substrate is still aluminum so it CAN be damaged with excessive pressure from tire irons, etc. The harder surface would probably appear "cracked" if damaged. I have seen damage from tire irons on colored wheels that appeared to just mush with the aluminum so I would "guess" they are not normally hard anodized.

Sorry, not much help other than speculative on this one.

Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2721 on: February 21, 2016, 07:10:18 PM »
Thanks for the reply Keith, I'm tossing up whether to anodize or powdercoat, powder may be easier as the colors can be custom matched...
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Offline kmb69

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2722 on: February 24, 2016, 07:23:37 PM »
First 2 pictures, back from anodizing. Little darker than I hoped. They did a good job masking the finished ID.
Last picture, hub tooling finished, disk brake holes drilled, tapped and counter-bored.
Appear to be within .0002-4” location measured with hand tools. Counter-bores are dead nuts on size.
Have a surfacing class on the CMM tomorrow. Probably Friday before the wheel stud holes.

Keith

Offline Bill/BentON Racing

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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2723 on: February 24, 2016, 09:06:25 PM »
Nice work Keith, Russ would approve I'm sure! K. Bill
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1993 HRC RS125 | 1984 NS400R | 1974 Honda CB750/836cc (Calendar Girl) | 1972 CB 500/550 Yoshi Kitted 590cc | 1965 Honda CB450 Black Bomber | 1972 Suzuki T350 | 1973 88cc | Z50/Falcons Pit Bike | 1967 CA100| 1974 CB350 (400F motor)...and more.
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Re: Sorcerer and Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe to be restored
« Reply #2724 on: February 24, 2016, 11:37:17 PM »
Nice work Keith, Russ would approve I'm sure! K. Bill

I agree, that looks great... ;)
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