Sorry for the thread jack this past while CBME but I thought since we were having the same problem maybe we could figure this out.
Well I am pleased to say my issue has been Resolved!!
I finally took it to the mechanic mentioned above and he even said it was a challenge. This guy has been working on bikes for decades.
He said it was a combination of things that got it so it would run and idle good, but no matter what "it would fall flat on it's face at anything over 5000 rpm". Once he got it running right he was not sure how critical the air box cover was and since I had it at home, he placed some tape over the air box with a small opening for air. This made all the difference in the world and he was able to get the bike just below red line at around 9000 rpm on the road. I took the bike out last night and today and it has NEVER ran this good since I bought it 5 years ago. I removed the tape and put the stock air cover back on today. Ran it at highway speed right at 5500 rpm and still had plenty to pass cars. It was solid right to 7000 and still had power left.
This is what he did:
-new plugs and wires as he noted the old ones were not copper but steel. Very reasonable prices too.
-checked timing..ok
-rechecked my carb rebuild..ok
-he also swapped the coils out with new ones and it made no difference. He replaced mine back again.
-checked carb synch...ok but tweaked a little bit
-tank was clean
-said he adjusted the air gap around the pickups by the ATU?
-played with air box until he got the right combination of air and restriction
So I think the rubber air tees between the carbs made a difference as well as the new carb parts. it just needed a bit of experienced hands to get it back in synch. I was not afraid to admit at this point that it was over my head and needed someone with years of experience to figure it out. His rates were extremely reasonable and I will go back in a minute to him as needed.
I hope this thread helps someone else.
Thanks everyone for your patience and help