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Project Shop / Re: CR 750 Style Triple Clamp
« Last post by Dreamer on Today at 10:27:57 PM »
1975-1977 GL with stock offset.  Cool, thanks for the feedback!
Looks like I'll have to buy a GL front end from ebay for test fitting.
Does anyone hear know the distance between the fork tubes on the GL's?


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SOHC/4 Bikes / Re: Another Headlight issue
« Last post by bjbuchanan on Today at 10:27:43 PM »
Yeah, k6 has a combined starter and headlight switch. Still doesn't explain why you get 12v at the headlight all the time , that isn't a bad switch. Bad switch wouldn't pass 12v through
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Open Forum / Re: The South Side Dive Bar
« Last post by Frankencake on Today at 10:27:14 PM »
I'm not so sure I'd even carry my own poop after it's left my a$$.
Unless you are way particular about wiping, I'm sure you probably carry a bit around until you shower.
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Open Forum / Re: The South Side Dive Bar
« Last post by 333 on Today at 10:23:07 PM »
I'm not so sure I'd even carry my own poop after it's left my a$$.
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SOHC/4 Bikes / Re: !977 Honda CB750K on ebay
« Last post by hillcountrymac on Today at 10:19:12 PM »
Hey me too. I still have a couple of small ones that I ride in the neighborhood, neck just won't let me go more than a few miles.I'm like you I didn't think I would ever sell it,but I would rather see someone else enjoy it than trailer it to shows or sit it in the shop and just look at it.They should be ridden.
I've fallen in love w/ every one of these vintage bikes I've owned ... I'm w/ ozpacman, there's an intrinsic value in them for me that's impossible to put a $$$$ figure on.

But, they're worth what they'll bring.

I hope I never have to sell any of mine, even though I'm running out of garage space  ??? I'm so GD warped that I've actually willed them a friend of mine, just to make sure they go to a good home.
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Based on hard-won experience - NEVER ignore an oil light. It's never nothing to worry about unless you know EXACTLY why it's illuminating. Even then, get it fixed and operating correctly as soon as possible. Oil is the lifeblood of an engine - one mistake and it's curtains  :-\.

Calj737's advice is spot on - drain your oil and drop your oil pan. My guess is you're going to see some glitter in your oil pan - I hope not - but from the initial description is sounds like your bike got starved of oil and the motor seized. That is, the internals were not sufficiently lubricated and locked up.

The 10w-40 isn't going to cause a catastrophic failure like that - it's not the optimum choice, but it's not THAT far off ... issues from a difference in oil viscosity between 10w-40 and 20w-50 wouldn't show up for thousands of miles, rather than 300.

From the description, it sounds like you've suffered some serious damage to the motor. I'm sorry about that  :-X

You can often find these newer 550k engines for under $500 on ebay - just make sure it's a solid seller with a good track record. They are not difficult to swap with some basic tools - a day or two tops. Just be gentle and avoid overtightening bolts. Unfortunately, depending on the damage, it may be your least expensive alternative.

But pull your oil pan and take a look - snap some pictures and post them up here. There are a lot of fellas on here that know a hella lot more than I do about these 'ol heartbreakers.

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Project Shop / Re: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5
« Last post by Blackfin5 on Today at 10:14:49 PM »
Just the fender and side covers back from paint.  3 coats clear then buffed.  All paint now finished - unless I add a small fly screen later.  Cut down and refit the inner rear fender.  Received new primary chain (nice and stiff), cam chain, and cam chain tensioner today.  Still waiting on one more primary shaft bearing and the F2 rod bolts before I can button up the cases.  Hope they arrive tomorrow.



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Project Shop / Re: 1978 CB550K4 Another Bike?
« Last post by bwaller on Today at 10:05:18 PM »
The stock offset is 45mm. If you only change to an 18" front wheel you're lowering the front end .5", no need to worry much about changing geometry. However if you then raise the rear with shocks longer than say 1" as well then that will surely reduce trail enough to potentially bring on a tank slapper if something upsets the chassis. I'm preparing a set of NSR125 35mm triple clamps for a fellow here for a project he is planning.

Count on 25mm up or down on a 1422mm wheelbase to result in a 1 degree change in rake. As an example on a stock frame mine was lower in the front by 12.7mm, the rear shocks were 44mm longer. This yielded a rake angle of approximately 24 degrees (stock=26d) and with 45mm offset reduced trail to approximately 89mm. (stock 105mm) Dangerous numbers, and it eventually caught me up! Now my rake is reduced 1 degree further to 23 degrees and with 30mm offset clamps my trail figures are 99mm, still quick steering but with plenty of trail. Just so you have some figures to work with.

Honestly though these type reactions aren't a guarantee, I raced three years this way and never felt a twitch....it did lead to disaster eventually, but on the street you might never have an issue. If you want to be sure it never happens, then certainly make the change.
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SOHC/4 Bikes / Re: CB 550 motor question
« Last post by calj737 on Today at 10:02:36 PM »
Why not just put the 650 motor in as is. It's a de upgrade as a stock motor-
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High Performance and Racing Forum / Re: Target CR for NO2
« Last post by Fastbike on Today at 09:56:49 PM »
Scottly,

I remember one time at a race,  I forgot to turn the fuel pump on, so the motor was running just nitrous with no added fuel.  It was a dog, but no fuel, no heat.  Now you can run alittle lean and possibly hurt it, but IF you have enough timing pulled out, it's not likely.  Ask Jim French about this;  2 years ago at the NOPI race in Atlanta, I had changed fuel from C16 to NO2.  It was warm during Saturday qualifying and the bike was fast.  On Sunday, the weather got cooler and dryer and the bike was slower.  We found the nitrous jetting was slightly too lean for best power, but since we pull so much timing, didn't hurt a thing.  Actually won the race. 

I do maintenance about every 3 races, depending on the amount of total passes.  I will do a leak-down and compression test.  Got alot of nitrous passes, haven't had the head off in over a year.  Leak-down is 4% or less on all four holes and compression is within 5 lbs. difference.  You can run nitrous reliably.  Keep in mind I don't run ProMod amounts of nitrous, but with small jets, we can run almost 1 second quicker than on just motor.  It's all in the tune-up.
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