Author Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style (Read 80497 times)

Harsh · « **Reply #250 on:** March 30, 2013, 01:30:10 PM »

Well she is a runner, again. So far I haven't seen any leaks so lets hope it stays that way. It actually runs a bit quieter than it did before. While I had the cover off I adjusted the valves again. I guess the little bit of running it did was enough to knock the initial setting off on a couple of the valves. The initial setting was done completely dry so I don't know if the oil made a difference or not or if they just bed in a bit.

Vinhead1957 · « **Reply #251 on:** March 30, 2013, 06:01:31 PM »

Fingers crossed!

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #252 on:** March 30, 2013, 06:03:55 PM »

I bet with the oiled up surfaces your tolerances are just a tad tighter on the valve lashing and you are getting some power, smoothness, noise reduction goodness

Harsh · « **Reply #253 on:** April 09, 2013, 05:56:19 AM »

Well work and life has been in the way for the last week or so. I fired her up again yesterday so I could check the timing and sync the carbs. I was only able to get one of them done. At first start up the #1 carb overflow tube was pissing fuel out of it. When I got the carbs back from being rebuilt that float needle had slipped down a bit on the float tang. I manipulated the tang to where it would hold the needle up and maintain the correct height, but I guess that once the bowl was drained it slipped back down. So I will tackle that issue today. For the meantime I tapped on the carb body which was enough to get the needle to sit where it was supposed to.

I let the bike warm up for about 10 minutes, shut it down, and hooked up the timing light. Fired it up with the idle sitting at 900-1000 rpm's it was spot on. I didn't have to adjust the plate at all. I some how managed to put it right on the sweet spot when I initially installed the Pamco unit. Increased the revs to 2500 to check the advancer and it was spot on as well.

The only issue I noticed was at the end of the run (about 10 minutes in) the idle started to creep up and it sort of sounded like it was hunting a little bit. Once it got to almost 2000 rpm I shut it down. I am no carb expert, but from what I gather that indicates a lean issue correct? I also noticed that the exhaust pipes started to turn a golden color. I have not messed with any settings on the carbs since I put them on. They were rebuilt (by a reputable member here) and the jets were changed to 110's. From what reading I have done I should be able to correct this by adjusting the air mixture screws?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #254 on:** April 09, 2013, 10:02:30 PM »

Cool!

Harsh · « **Reply #255 on:** April 12, 2013, 04:12:05 AM »

Well it looks like I gotta pull the carbs and re-do the bench sync as it appears that the slides don't go down far enough. While it is really nice the bike roars to life very easily the idle is basically uncontrollable. I have read so many different ways to do it I am not sure which way to choose.

Harsh · « **Reply #256 on:** April 14, 2013, 06:37:09 PM »

Alright....Bench has been re-done and is much better. The idle screw actually does something now. Since I was able to get the high idling under control I was able to sync the carbs. I was able to get them pretty close to each other. She is purring like a kitten now. I guess with this the mechanical portion of the build is complete and I can move full time to the cosmetic and functionality portion. I guess this week I will finalize the seat mount so I can get to the final shaping of the seat so that it forms with the tank.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #257 on:** April 14, 2013, 07:05:44 PM »

Congrats on completing that hurdle.

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #258 on:** April 14, 2013, 07:08:47 PM »

very nice harsh! i have been following your thread with anticipation and excitement

iron_worker · « **Reply #259 on:** April 15, 2013, 07:21:59 AM »

Nice gauge set too!

IW

Harsh · « **Reply #260 on:** April 21, 2013, 04:55:00 AM »

Well I have barely touched the bike since I synced the carbs. The new airbox clamps came in Friday so I installed those and they appeared to tighten down correctly. Yesterday when I got home from work I had to load the bike up to take it to a friends house so he could help me with the seat pan base. When I moved the bike I noticed a small spot on the floor. Yep it was oil. So the search began to find out where it came from. I traced it to the oil supply line from the tank to the engine. This is the same line that leaked before. Crush washer is brand new and the line was snugged up, but not over torqued. It has taken well over a month and the bike has been started and ran numerous times before there was enough oil to seep out, saturate the outer covering of the line, and drip. The only thing I can think of is that the flange has a small crack I can't see which slowly leaks. What a pain in the ass. I guess the only think left to do is try and get a new line and see if that fixes it.

On the bright side I was able to figure out the seat pan base and get the seat trimmed up so that it flows with the curve of the tank.

iron_worker · « **Reply #261 on:** April 22, 2013, 10:01:11 AM »

You could try some type of thread sealer to see if that helps? Also loosening and retightening is supposed to help crush washers seat in ... and if you're adding some thread sealer you'd be doing that anyway.

IW

Harsh · « **Reply #262 on:** April 22, 2013, 10:15:54 AM »

IW...Sorry, I forgot to post up some finding here. The seal of the crush washer isn't the probem. The leak is at the crimp connection.

Harsh · « **Reply #263 on:** April 25, 2013, 03:26:24 AM »

New oil line is on its way.

And the hits keep coming. Noticed two separate bands on the left side of the rear tire today. They are bands of cracks. I just sent Soutwest Moto Tire an email letting them know of the issue and hope they do the right thing and replace the tire, cover shipping both ways, and hopefully do something to cover mounting and balancing. One of the bands is right next to the wheel and the other is about half way up the sidewall. I have some pics, but the battery in the wife's camera died so I can't pull them off yet. At this rate of unexpected failures it is looking doubtful that I will be able to bring it to the National SV Rally in June.

iron_worker · « **Reply #264 on:** April 25, 2013, 07:08:18 AM »

New tires that are cracking?!

IW

RAFster122s · « **Reply #265 on:** April 25, 2013, 07:13:16 AM »

Hope you can source a new oil line and get the tire problem fixed quickly. Will not be long and you will be able to enjoy your labor...

Harsh · « **Reply #266 on:** April 25, 2013, 07:53:27 AM »

Quote from: iron_worker on April 25, 2013, 07:08:18 AM

New tires that are cracking?!

IW

Exactly what I said when I noticed it. I just have this feeling in my gut that they won't want to do anything about it. I bought them 30 Nov and mounted them 30 Dec. It is now almost 5 months since I bought them and 4 months since they were mounted. I hope the thing that gets me out of their 30 day policy window is that they have zero miles on them.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #267 on:** April 25, 2013, 01:49:10 PM »

Even if they only warranty for 30 days the manufacturer's warranty on defects should be longer.

Harsh · « **Reply #268 on:** April 25, 2013, 01:59:53 PM »

I received a reply today stating that they will send me a replacement tire this week.

Pics of the tire issues.

You can kind of see how the tire starts to bulge out from the cracks.

Not sure what the weird lines are. Could it be the cords pushing out?

The next two show the cracks through the lettering and you can see how it has a slight indentation then starts to bubble out from here as well.

Manufacturer date and cracks. This tire was made between July 15-21 of 2012.

Harsh · « **Reply #269 on:** April 27, 2013, 01:10:27 PM »

Finally something went right. Today I drove up to Slingshot Cycles and had a set of custom lines made. Shaun was very accommodating and it was nice to meet another member.

Nothing super special about brake lines, but here is a pic non the less. I followed the pattern of my Triumph. A single line from the master cylinder to the right caliper then a jumper over to the left caliper. I still need to route the lines through the grommets, but I still have some work to do on the fender.

Stev-o · « **Reply #270 on:** April 27, 2013, 05:41:22 PM »

Sorry to hear about your tirs. I just bought and mounted a Road Rider, I'll be watching it. Read so many good reviews, can't believe it did that

Harsh · « **Reply #271 on:** April 28, 2013, 04:24:31 AM »

Definitely keep an eye on them. Of course I did some google searching on the subject and there are plenty of other people having the same issues. A lot of the cracks mentioned were just on one side of the tire, like mine. Shaun looked at his tire while I was there and saw some cracks on the right rear. His weren't nearly as bad as mine, but they were there.

deafcaferacer · « **Reply #272 on:** April 29, 2013, 07:12:57 AM »

Man, gotta be frustrating.. all those hits. But the day is coming when they will stop. Following along. The amount of work you are putting into the bike is going to pay off one way or another.

pampadori · « **Reply #273 on:** April 29, 2013, 01:32:25 PM »

It was nice to meet you this past weekend Steven. This is gonna be a nice bike! Everything looked clean enough to eat off of...unlike my bikes.

Harsh · « **Reply #274 on:** April 30, 2013, 01:18:05 PM »

You know that feeling you get in your stomach when you realize you messed something up pretty bad and it is going to cost you? Well I just had it. I was working on an alignment issue with the right caliper and disc. It was then that I noticed that I assembled the caliper halves incorrectly. That is why the brake lines go to the top of the caliper and the bleeder is on the side. Of course this makes the new lines not fit correctly. The clocking is off causing a lot of binding and the crossover cable is now too short.

And there I was thinking I got something right.

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Author Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style (Read 80497 times)