Author Topic: Now What? (Read 18372 times)

shade · « **Reply #125 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:37:44 AM »

How much oil and what kind should I pour into the cylinders. I initially sprayed WD-40 into the cylinders before I started messing with the bike. Is it too late to pour oil in?

Thanks

lucky · « **Reply #126 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:52:09 AM »

Quote from: shade on May 07, 2012, 08:37:44 AM

How much oil and what kind should I pour into the cylinders. I initially sprayed WD-40 into the cylinders before I started messing with the bike. Is it too late to pour oil in?

Thanks

You could still add motor oil.
Just 1/2 teaspoon in each cylinder.

750K · « **Reply #127 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:58:55 AM »

I used 10-40 motor oil like I put in the bike, and I had an extra syringe my vet gave me when I had to orally give my cat meds. That way I was able to measure exactly the ammount of oil each cylinder got, I just did a full syringe. One cap full of oil using the oil bottles cap gave me two syringe fills, I added oil just because the motor hadnt run or had oil circulating since 97. Normally you would do a dry compression check and then a wet one to compare psi readings. Especially if your dry numbers are out by more than 10% from one cylinder to the other. If it hasn't run in awhile a bit of oil might be a good idea, just make sure you add equal ammounts to each plug hole. I've always read a teaspoon or a cap full.

cgswss · « **Reply #128 on:** May 07, 2012, 09:34:14 AM »

Ok before we have you overhauling the whole bike and doing an overbore and fresh valves and guides...

Lets go back a bit.

You need 2 things for the bike to run, Spark and gas.

A long time ago, you had spark- but you have since messed with the points. Frankly, I wish you had not removed the points. SOOOO... lets go way back there and pull the plugs and check for spark. If no spark, we have to go back to the electrics.

If we have spark, get some starter fluid. IF possible look for started fluid for diesel or 2 stroke engines. (these have a bit of lube in them)

Now with the air boots removed, (so you can see the open mouths of the carbs) spray a bit of starting fluid into the carbs and crank it over. You should have the engine run a little. (it will run on the starting fluid but won't run on gas)

I recommend this for a couple of reasons. First we are confirming the plugs will fire under compression. If it doesn't fire with starter fluid, most likely the spark is "leaking" some where else. In other words the spark is finding and easier way to get to ground- a cracked wire, or possibly the spark is jumping to ground up at the coil. Second if we get running but there is a bunch of back firing and bad noises, we most likely have some timing problems,maybe a cam timing problem, or even plug wire mixed up (wire should be simple as the outside cylinders are fired by one coil and the inside are fired by the other.

The gas leaking out the carb is caused by the little pin that is connected to the float. with bikes that have sat for a time, that seat is often gummed up and wouldn't seal. Once those are cleaned (I use a q tip) then the next reason would be the float level is set to high. I don't know this exact carb, but on most this is just a little tab between the float that pushes up on the pin. You can see this if you have the float bowls off and turn on the gas Gas will flow until you push the float up. when the float is about level it SHOULD stop the gas flowing.

Just wondering out load... do they have storage units around you? A storage unit can make a great motorcycle work shop for someone that has no garage, but I'm guessing that may no be an option in NYC. Around here you can't swing a cat by the tail without hitting a storage unit (BMFG)

shade · « **Reply #129 on:** May 22, 2012, 09:19:26 AM »

It has been a while since my last post so here is an update. I removed the carbs from the bike again, and soaked them in pine-sol overnight. They are now immaculate. I then ordered the rebuild kits off of ebay, and replaced all the jets. I did not replace the needle that moves up and down from the top of the carburetors because I just don't want to tamper with anything else that I can harm. I measured the floats again.
I added a bit of oil to the cylinders and checked the compression. The compression seemed low but it was even from carb to carb. The battery was dying so I will charge it when it stops raining and do the test again with the carburetor on the bike.
I have been sick for a few days and kind of light headed so if this post is messy, my apologies.
Thanks

shade · « **Reply #130 on:** May 26, 2012, 09:48:40 AM »

I put the carbs back on the bike. The good news is they are no longer overflowing. The bad news is the bike still won't start. I did another spark test and now I am no longer getting spark.

Any clues?

kpier883 · « **Reply #131 on:** May 28, 2012, 05:59:51 PM »

Shade,

I am pulling for you, don't give up!

shade · « **Reply #132 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:31:50 PM »

Just wanted to let the people who were helping me on this thread that I got the bike started. There were some wiring issues by the points that were straightened out. I know there is a ton of work to do on this bike but it is great to hear the engine run!

Thanks for all of your help so far.

P5292877.AVI

kpier883 · « **Reply #133 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:56:50 PM »

Right on Shade

Didn't appear to be smoking lots and seemed to idle decent. Kind of sounded like it was missing on a cylinder maybe, but you are getting there!

Keep up the good work!

gregimotis · « **Reply #134 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:32:42 PM »

Not only is it running, but it is idling! BALLS!

gregimotis · « **Reply #135 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:34:44 PM »

So, how's that valve job coming?

shade · « **Reply #136 on:** May 31, 2012, 07:13:31 AM »

I've been doing some research on how to measure the valves and can't really find a start to finish example. What search terms could I use to find more information. I am a little wary of messing around too much.

Lil Red · « **Reply #137 on:** May 31, 2012, 07:41:29 AM »

Do you have a manual....if not you should get one or download one. You'll need the specs for your particular bike

Here's a youtube of a valve adjustment on a single cul bike. It's very similar to a sohc...you'll see the 8 access caps on the valve cover...you will need to get the cyls you're working on to top dead center..,good luck!

How to Adjust Honda 50/70 cc Valves

Here's where to look for the manual

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #138 on:** May 31, 2012, 07:46:34 AM »

Just to add to that video. I would always measure the valve clearance before I undo the locknut..for reference.

Accolay · « **Reply #139 on:** May 31, 2012, 11:10:28 AM »

Alright! That's awesome. What are those neighbors saying now huh? You're not far off from riding.

So, in the video when you start it, are you jumping the ignition because you don't have a key, I forget if you've already mentioned this somewhere in the thread.

What are you going to do now? Valves then carb synch and brakes and tires/tubes/balance/true? Do you have a title?

shade · « **Reply #140 on:** May 31, 2012, 11:43:48 AM »

When I opened up the housing for the starter switch it just fell apart so for the time being I use the screwdriver, and it kickstarts on the first try each time. I've been emailing the owner for the title hopefully he will get back to me. He did mail me the key and say do what you want with it...

I'm going to attempt the valves next I think, but I'm not totally sure about how to get the cylinders positioned properly so I am doing some research. The rims are kind of rusty and I wonder if I need new ones. I was thinking of having a professional handle tires and brakes but first want to get the title.

I found it very difficult to reconnect the throttle cable into the housing on the handlebar, and need to go back and re-do it.

Thanks for the help.

Back together and a bunch of rust removed:

Accolay · « **Reply #141 on:** May 31, 2012, 02:45:15 PM »

Cool.

You probably wont need new rims unless there is some structural problem, they'll just wont look as good as new ones. Try the 0000 steel wool and on them if you want to get them looking a bit better. Better to spend the money on getting you riding first, then worry about making her pretty...cause you're going to need some money for the tubes/tires and brakes.

I'd say rebuilding the Master Cylinder and caliper is easier than taking the carbs off, but it depends on how bad they are gooped up or corroded. Does the master cylinder still have liquid or is it all white powder? If really bad, you'll probably want to get the M/C rebuild kit, the caliper gasket and might need a new caliper piston if it's badly pitted. Maybe need new brake lines and maybe a new bleeder nipple.

shade · « **Reply #142 on:** May 31, 2012, 03:32:54 PM »

OK I don't know what most of that stuff is, so I am going to hit the manual and research a bit before I get into it. I've also been wondering how I am going to get this out of my back yard and onto the street. Two steps down, through the hallway, and up two steps...

I appreciate all the suggestions and help, thanks.

72500john · « **Reply #143 on:** May 31, 2012, 06:09:02 PM »

been reading this thread for a while..dang great to see some one to get the bug and make one of these great bikes run again.
great work shade!
keep asking question and we will keep answering. pm me if you want and i will try my best to put your queries into plain English the best i can. there are allot more knowledgeable folks on this forum than myself, but will be glad to help as i can
i know you want to ride this thing bad. but get the engine running OK, fix the brakes and replace the tires. yes $$$$. but safety first dude. we want to hear back from you!

gregimotis · « **Reply #144 on:** May 31, 2012, 10:10:50 PM »

There's nothing on these bikes more aggravating than taking off the airbox/carbs a couple of times and putting them back on. There's nothing more complicated than taking off the points plate, putting it back on, and timing it well enough to run.

If you've suffered through those things, then you've popped it. The valves aren't any harder than the carbs, the brakes are considerably easier.

My advice: Get a manual and do the 3000mi service in order, posting regularly. Also post more pics for my enjoyment.

shade · « **Reply #145 on:** June 01, 2012, 04:33:24 AM »

I have a downloaded manual that I've been using, but ordered a Haynes manual from ebay last night. I have not ridden a motorcycle in 15 years so I am in no rush to get it on the street. However if I plan on starting it more than once a week or so I am going to have to get it out of the back yard. So I think I need to put new tires on the bike, or at least get more air into these tires.

I never really set the timing properly and can't find the light tool anywhere in NYC to do it. Could I use the multimeter to instead of the light? The next two projects are: Timing, and measure the valves.

I am like a kid now, and just go take the cover off the bike and stare it.

cgswss · « **Reply #146 on:** June 01, 2012, 05:46:16 AM »

Setting the valves is way easy compared to do int the carbs. Short hand for how to... The bike fires every half turn of the crank. If I recall right (It will be in the manual) The firing order is 1-2-4-3 so timing cover off, valve covers off turn the engine to the 1.4T mark (cyl #1 and 4 at TDC) If the #4 valve is under tension (is being push down a bit) your #1 cylinder is ready to adjust. Turn the engine 1/2 turn and the #2 cly is ready to adjust, 1/2 turn and your #4 is ready to adjust, one more 1/2 turn and you can do #3. Honda says you need a special tool, I use a craftsman offset box wrench like these http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-5-pc-metric-full-polish-12-pt-deep/p-00944350000P
You can buy just one wrench and you can buy them a lot cheaper from other stores.

Accolay · « **Reply #147 on:** June 02, 2012, 12:29:25 AM »

As for the front brake, a picture is worth a thousand words.

If the brake fluid is still in there (liquid), try bleeding before taking the whole thing apart, and cleaning then greasing up number 13.
Top to bottom, you may or may not need numbers 33, 40 (x6), 18, 37 (x3), 17, 20, 10, 11, 23, 41 (x2). Those lines could be a little crappy or a lot crappy.

shade · « **Reply #148 on:** June 08, 2012, 05:45:27 AM »

I've been pretty busy with work and haven't been able to get much work done on the bike lately. I did take a look at the valves and I plan on adjusting them either tonight or over the weekend. In the picture below, where do I make the measurement? This might be obvious, but I can' tell where to put the measuring device. The nut on the first valve I tried to loosen is on pretty tight, as were the tappet covers. The last person to work on this bike seems to have been a bit heavy handed...
Any pointers or things to avoid as I start to work on the valves?

bollingball · « **Reply #149 on:** June 08, 2012, 07:20:32 AM »

Quote from: shade on June 08, 2012, 05:45:27 AM

I've been pretty busy with work and haven't been able to get much work done on the bike lately. I did take a look at the valves and I plan on adjusting them either tonight or over the weekend. In the picture below, where do I make the measurement? This might be obvious, but I can' tell where to put the measuring device. The nut on the first valve I tried to loosen is on pretty tight, as were the tappet covers. The last person to work on this bike seems to have been a bit heavy handed...
Any pointers or things to avoid as I start to work on the valves?

Shade
You see that screw with the slot. The other end of it is where it touches the valve stem between them is where you put the feeler gauge you may find it easier to put a 45 bend on the end but it will fit. It gets easy after a few times
Ken

News:

Author Topic: Now What? (Read 18372 times)

72500john

bollingball