Author Topic: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...  (Read 15152 times)

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Offline stereosilence

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #25 on: November 08, 2012, 06:11:46 PM »
I used 2k clear on the paint for my tank. You need to get an orbital buffer and polish it to a shine. Otherwise you will have the satin you are talking about.


Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #26 on: November 08, 2012, 06:18:35 PM »
I used 2k clear on the paint for my tank. You need to get an orbital buffer and polish it to a shine. Otherwise you will have the satin you are talking about.

I have never had to buff 2k clear, it should be perfect straight from the gun, if its frosting you may be spraying too far from the job or the paint flow is too fine. One of the great things about 2k is the gloss straight off the gun....
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Offline Gregorymoto

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #27 on: November 21, 2012, 06:45:31 PM »
Wow, I'm way late on a reply hear, sorry. I've been hung up in  a divorce the last year.
So yes I have used in on polished Alum. You just need to wipe it good with Acetone before you spray it on. You should also thin it by 1/4 before spraying and do 2 coats.
Yep, i have issues with this sort of stuff.

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #28 on: November 21, 2012, 08:31:52 PM »
I was reading a POR15 brochure yesterday and they have a clear coat product for polished metals of any type....
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Offline SohRon

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #29 on: November 23, 2012, 05:41:17 AM »
I was reading a POR15 brochure yesterday and they have a clear coat product for polished metals of any type....

http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/

Made for metal coverage. I agree with those urging you to forego the overcoat; easier to maintain that way...
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bollingball

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #30 on: November 23, 2012, 11:22:02 AM »
Thanks Hinomaru on the recommendation, will use that on my cases...that's a pretty engine! Wish mine looked like that:)

Vames, thanks for the response...she'll be in the garage when I'm not riding her, so might give it a shot.

Looks like the POR15 product is out of the picture. Thanks for all the responses!

I just wrote por-15 and ask about this and what they would use. Will post when they respond which they say is 24 hours.
Ken

bollingball

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #31 on: November 23, 2012, 11:57:14 AM »
anders288 is correct
Looks like this is what por-15 you should be using along with AP120 I will give it a try on something I don't care about as a test. I have used a lot of there products and they have worked great. Most of the people that say it is crap can not read and follow instructions
http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/
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Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #32 on: November 25, 2012, 06:58:52 AM »
I polished the engine cases and did the fork legs to the factory satin and clear PC'ed everything and they look great.  Do not know how they will hold up though I am still putting it back together.
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Offline markb

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #33 on: November 25, 2012, 09:03:52 AM »
Looks like this is what por-15 you should be using along with AP120 I will give it a try on something I don't care about as a test. I have used a lot of there products and they have worked great. Most of the people that say it is crap can not read and follow instructions
http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/
Ken
There is a fair amount to the instructions.  I can see how people screw it up. 

I polished the engine cases and did the fork legs to the factory satin and clear PC'ed everything and they look great.  Do not know how they will hold up though I am still putting it back together.

I see it comes in gloss and semi-gloss.  When you say "factory satin" is that the semi and is the "clear" the gloss?  How did they seem to match the factory finishes?  Seems like the semi-gloss would be the way to go on everything.  I might have to buy them both and do a little experimenting.
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Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #34 on: November 25, 2012, 09:17:25 AM »
Photobucket is down otherwise I would post pic's of all.

In the case of the fork legs when I say factory; I sanded out all of the nicks, decals, original clear coat, etc. and then used I think 400 wet & dry to reproduce the circular satin appearing finish.  In other words turning the fork legs while holding the wet & dry to produce the factory look, very time consuming.

In my case I used Eastwood's high gloss clear powder coat on the polished cases and the fork legs.  Seems to stick really well.  The high gloss PC bakes at 350 degrees so I'm thinking I will have no problem with the engine cases.
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bollingball

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #35 on: November 25, 2012, 11:20:47 AM »
Photobucket is down otherwise I would post pic's of all.

In the case of the fork legs when I say factory; I sanded out all of the nicks, decals, original clear coat, etc. and then used I think 400 wet & dry to reproduce the circular satin appearing finish.  In other words turning the fork legs while holding the wet & dry to produce the factory look, very time consuming.

In my case I used Eastwood's high gloss clear powder coat on the polished cases and the fork legs.  Seems to stick really well.  The high gloss PC bakes at 350 degrees so I'm thinking I will have no problem with the engine cases.

Would really like to see pic. when they are back up and you have time.
Ken

Offline geminimotors

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #36 on: November 26, 2012, 01:40:45 AM »
I've used the Glisten PC and like it- The GM restoration spatter trunk paint is water soluble now and needs a clear coat. The G PC sprayed well, dried fast and cured hard. I sprayed multiple coats and the last one I just dusted it to keep the gloss down. I still have some- I should give it a try on polished aluminum.

Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #37 on: November 26, 2012, 05:30:28 AM »
When I say PC I mean Powder Coat.

This was the original alternator cover:


This was the cover after I polished, PC'ed and ready for the oven:


Valve Cover Finished:


Honda recessed was also done with black powder coat:


Shifter Cover:
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Offline markb

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #38 on: November 26, 2012, 05:52:52 AM »
When I say PC I mean Powder Coat.
I'm glad I asked.  Sorry for the confusion on my part. 
Holy crap!  Nice looking cover.  I'm going for more of a stock look but that is beautiful.
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bollingball

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #39 on: November 27, 2012, 06:15:42 AM »
RS you just made me change my mind. That realy looks nice. I have not been around PC when I saw that white part I was surprised. Sure hope it does not go yellow with age I doubt it. I think it would be a lot easier than the Glisten.
Ken

Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #40 on: November 27, 2012, 07:52:19 AM »
Supposedly the Eastwood PC clear-coat is UV resistant, that said I do not plan on ever leaving my bike sitting in the sun for extended periods of time.  The Eastwood clear-coats come in satin and gloss for what its worth (I used gloss).  What I did with the black inlays was to go ahead and fully bake the black (20-min.) and then cleaned any spatter or rough edges to the inlay before doing the clear-coat.  The black bakes at 400 degrees while the clear-coat is 350.  I purchased a standard digital oven at a local used builder supply for $30.  I was able to fit the swing arm in and did practically everything on the bike that was originally black, black PC including the handle bar controls.  I purchased satin, semi gloss and high gloss black PC and after having tested the final look of each I think the satin comes closest to the factory paint.

Its possible to do the frame, but you would need Eastwood's large heat lamp (to expensive for me).  Local guys have had their frames PC'ed locally for like $135.  Long story (I was originally going to paint everything) but ended up painting the frame with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black (gloss), should have used satin.  I am also painting the headlight case, side covers and back seat cone (I have an "F") with the Extreme Chassis Black.  In talking with Eastwood I can clear-coat the headlight, side covers, and seat cone after the Chassis Black.

Of the thousand or so pictures I have taken it appears I did not take pictures of the final result of the fork legs.  I will be getting home later today and will post pictures of the final fork legs after sanding to get the factory look and then PC'ing the legs in high gloss clear.
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Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #41 on: November 28, 2012, 10:53:51 AM »
OK here are the pic's of the fork legs

Before anything was done (stock):




Polishing done and powder coat applied:


Finished Product:




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Offline greenjeans

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #42 on: November 28, 2012, 01:54:38 PM »
Perfecto !
Yep, I'm the kid that figured out how to put things back together...eventually.

Offline markb

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #43 on: November 29, 2012, 12:45:05 PM »
 :o Those fork lowers are unbelievable!  So the clear powder coat is white before it is baked?  What is your process for getting that finish?  That has to be as close to factory finish as I've ever seen.   
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Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #44 on: November 29, 2012, 01:00:43 PM »
Lots of sanding with wet & dry.  Started with maybe 330 to get the deep scratches out and then worked out the 330 scratches with 440 and so one and so on.  Critical thing is to sand perpendicular to the length of the leg so the sanding marks go around the leg, not up and down.  I think I finished with 1200.

Yes the clear powder is white when deposited and then bakes to clear at 350 degrees for 20 minutes.
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Offline markb

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #45 on: November 29, 2012, 01:39:23 PM »
Thanks for the repies!  Just two more questions.  So you never used a buffing wheel?  Are there different glosses in the clear powder coat, if so what did you use?
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Offline RSchaefer

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #46 on: November 29, 2012, 02:24:48 PM »
I never used a buffing wheel on the fork legs.  I DID use a buffing wheel on the side covers.  Yes I believe the Eastwood PC's come in satin and high gloss.  For all of my clear coats I used the high gloss.
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Offline Gregorymoto

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Re: Question on clearcoating polished(not highly) aluminum...
« Reply #47 on: March 10, 2013, 12:27:22 PM »
Sorry just getti g back to this. Yep I have used it on polished Alum and metal. The best stuff ever.
Yep, i have issues with this sort of stuff.