Author Topic: My 1975 cb550f. Sidecover Work (Read 22774 times)

needswork · « **Reply #75 on:** July 05, 2006, 07:30:03 PM »

Aaawww geez Chad that sucks.

However, removing the rack wasn't all that hard was it?! Like TT said, it gets easier everytime. Ive only done it 3 times and the last time I took the carbs out, cleaned the jets (slow & main) and replaced everything and fired it up in just over an hour (I have pod filters).
From the sounds of things (aside from the hiccup) you're making real progress. Get that broken jet thing straightened out and the rest cleaned up and you should see a big difference.

techy5025 · « **Reply #76 on:** July 05, 2006, 07:54:45 PM »

I wouldn't suggest using vaseline on the rubber boots. You know what it
does to "other" types of rubbers.

Maybe KY would be a better choice.

Jim

TwoTired · « **Reply #77 on:** July 05, 2006, 11:30:21 PM »

I bought a set of carbs off ebay and it had one of the slow jets broken off. Gnashing of teeth. Argh.

I found my smallest easy out and drilled the jet just big enough to get the easy out tip into it. Unscrewed easily. No damage to the carb body. I probably could have tapped the tip of a flat blade screwdriver into the soft jet material and unscrewed it that way, too.

Good luck!

puppytrax · « **Reply #78 on:** July 06, 2006, 03:44:22 AM »

Quote from: techy5025 on July 05, 2006, 07:54:45 PM

Maybe KY would be a better choice.

I don't like KY because it dries up, leaving a tacky surface behind. Not sure what you mean by Vaseline doing to other types of rubbers...Vaseline is a petroleum product; it has no adverse effect on carb booties that gasoline or oil would not have (which on my machine is none)...In any event, you don't apply it with a butter knife; just rub some on your fingertips and wipe it around the spigots...

Now, if you want real pleasure, use Johnsons Baby Oil...

Fish · « **Reply #79 on:** July 06, 2006, 12:13:21 PM »

Thanks for the help guys.
Fortuantely I was able to order a replacement jet (and 4 complete seal kits while I was at it). I am going to look into getting an easy out that will be small enough or track down a shop that can make the fix.
The comments on lubrication were most educating

. For a moment there it almost looked like someone had discovered a second use for KY, I may just try the vaseline method though when it comes time to reinstall.
Cheers,

- Chad

TwoTired · « **Reply #80 on:** July 06, 2006, 01:09:56 PM »

Quote from: Fish on July 06, 2006, 12:13:21 PM

I may just try the vaseline method though when it comes time to reinstall.

Rather than vasoline, I recommend silicone spray for the installation process. Much easier to wash off afterward. And, it doesn't collect near as much dust and dirt after that.

Cheers,

puppytrax · « **Reply #81 on:** July 06, 2006, 01:58:03 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on July 06, 2006, 01:09:56 PM

Rather than vasoline, I recommend silicone spray for the installation process.

Just don't get it on anything you might ever want to paint...

Fish · « **Reply #82 on:** July 07, 2006, 04:04:31 PM »

As I wait for the new jet to come in, I tackled some brake, tire, and fork work. The oil in the left fork lower case was almost all gone and what was still there, looked like milk. I want to replace the seals but am having a heck of a time getting the lowers off. The manual says to back off the restraining bolts (which I did) and pull the entire fork tubes out (which I can't). Even if I could get the entire fork tube out, I still don't see how that will help me get the lowers off. The problem is I have tried to undo the allen head socket bolt and it just turns and turns. With my cb650 I could just turn that bolt out and pull the bottom case off. Does anyone know what the trick is here? I've studied the schematic and it looks like the socket bolt threads into the bottom pipe - I just can't understand how to prevent the bottom pipe from turning while I turn the bolt.

- Chad

Fish · « **Reply #83 on:** July 08, 2006, 04:20:22 PM »

Well I finally managed to get the bottom case off of my forks. What I did was put the fork bolt back in and then prop the whole thing upside down and lean on it with all my weight. This compressed the spring enough that it prevented the bottom pipe from turning while I unscrewed the socket bolt. I don't have a seal driver and didn't want to screw it up after all that time so I took to forks into the local shop to do. They did it for a case of beer

.
The only problem is that when I took the forks off, the seals were sitting snug against the stop ring. The new seals however were driven a bit further and the there is about 1/8" of space between the top of the seal and the stop ring. I am thinking that it shouldn't be a problem - even if the seals do have some play up and down, they still cant leak as long as the stop ring holds them in place.... am I right?

Well, I have some extra fork fluid so before I fill them back up, I am going to flush them out a bit more so they're nice and clean. Hope this is useful for anyone else taking their forks apart.

- Chad

Fish · « **Reply #84 on:** July 15, 2006, 04:50:19 PM »

Hi all,
Here is a photo of how my bike looked a couple minutes ago:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/honda919/060707017.jpg

The wheels are back on with shiny new rubber. I ran into a little snag intalling the front tire. The axle seemed to be too long and the front tire had almost an inch of play to the left and right. It seemed to me that there should have been some kind of spacer or somthing. After a few minutes of headscratching and diagram searching I realized that the axle nut had been put on backwards. It's wierd because I didn't touch it when I took it off the bike... either the previous owner had it screwed up, or someone at the shop took it off and intalled it wrong when they changed the tire for me - no need to take the axle off for that though. Also, I noticed that one of my fork oil drain screws were weeping a little (on the same side that happened to be empty when I first checked). I'm not sure of the proper fix for something like this but I wrapped the threads in some teflon tape, and so far it's nice and dry. I've got everything I need to rebuild the front brake and I might tackle that job tonight.
I just got a call from my parts guy and he said that my slow jet and carb rebuild kit is in, and I have a pair of sidecovers on their way to me in the mail.
Yup, it's all coming together...

- Chad

Tim. · « **Reply #85 on:** July 15, 2006, 05:43:59 PM »

Looking good! Nice and clean.

Fish · « **Reply #86 on:** July 15, 2006, 07:44:23 PM »

Thanks tintin! I must confess though that it looks way better in the picture than it does in person. The engine sidecovers are patchy from the finish coming off and the fins are all stained with burnt oil - someday though

Well, I sat down to rebuild my master cylinder and... totally chickened out. I have read a bunch of threads discussing removing the snap ring but I was not prepared for the actual thing. I couldn't even see the ring, let alone remove it. I would have had to destroy the rubber cap in order to get to it and I seriously doubted my ability reinstall the ring without also destroying the new rubber cap. Instead, I cleaned out the calliper piston and put a new seal in and then flushed and bled the fluid. That's something I guess...
I have an unused m/c rebuild kit if anyone wants to buy one.

Once I had the wheels and brakes put back together I sat on the bike to roll it back and forth, managing to back over the mirror that I placed on the ground when I took the master cylinder off. Yup, awesome work Chad

... at least now I have an excuse to look at aftermarket mirrors now... jeesh

- Chad

csendker · « **Reply #87 on:** July 15, 2006, 08:04:53 PM »

Bad luck with the mirror - sounds like something that i'd do. That said, I have bar end mirrors on mine. I got a set of OEM to be a bit more stock, but all I could see was my own arms. As I don't get to the gym often enough to impress myself, I'm back to the bar end mirrors. I've grown to like the look better than the OWM style, at least on mine.

Otherwise, it's looking good. You've dug into it wayyyyyy more than I have on mine. I'm still discovering little things that I wish I had known before, and would have with a project like yours. Hope it all comes together soon so you can get some riding in and enjoy all your hard work.

Fish · « **Reply #88 on:** July 15, 2006, 08:35:07 PM »

Bar ends eh? That's not a bad idea...
I mentioned it earlier in the thread but I just wanted to thank you again for the copy of the manual you sent me. I wouldn't have gotten past the first day without it

- Chad

TwoTired · « **Reply #89 on:** July 16, 2006, 12:06:33 AM »

Quote

After a few minutes of headscratching and diagram searching I realized that the axle nut had been put on backwards. It's wierd because I didn't touch it when I took it off the bike... either the previous owner had it screwed up, or someone at the shop took it off and intalled it wrong when they changed the tire for me - no need to take the axle off for that though.

The axle must be removed to balance the wheel/tire. The shop should have put it back together correctly. though.

Quote

I noticed that one of my fork oil drain screws were weeping a little

The drain screws are supposed to have an aluminum or copper crush washer to form a seal to the fork body.

Cheers,

Tim. · « **Reply #90 on:** July 16, 2006, 05:38:41 AM »

What kind of chain is that on the bike? It's not an o-ring is it? Check around the front sprocket to see if there's been any rubbing if it is. You don't want an o-ring chain on the 550 - the chain is too wide.

78_SaltLick · « **Reply #91 on:** July 16, 2006, 06:38:55 AM »

i have an o ring chain on my 550, although it barely misses, it does work but i would not suggest an o ring chain on a 550, but they do clear sometimes.

Tim. · « **Reply #92 on:** July 16, 2006, 07:00:19 AM »

Quote from: 78_SaltLick on July 16, 2006, 06:38:55 AM

i have an o ring chain on my 550, although it barely misses, it does work but i would not suggest an o ring chain on a 550, but they do clear sometimes.

Did you have waffles for breakfast?

Lumbee · « **Reply #93 on:** July 16, 2006, 07:24:03 AM »

...speaking of 550's I just got this one on the road after 15 years...this is just after the maiden voyaage around the block. Thats how tired you look after a months of cleaning/rebuilding carbs...

Fish · « **Reply #94 on:** July 16, 2006, 02:11:34 PM »

tinitin,
As far as I know, it is not an oring chain. The bike only has 8k miles on it and the rear sproket looks good and the butterfly washers had not been disturbed. I will take a closer look at it, but I'm pretty sure that the chain is original equipment.

Lumbee,
That is a sweet looking bike. I love the paint job and the color of the seat, nice work. Are those double discs on the front?

Does anyone know of a 'compatability' list for the 550? I would like to put double discs on my bike. Or a goldwing front end. I'd like to know if I can buy a brand new master cylinder and mirrors from a 750 nighthawk or a 1300vtx or the new Triumph scrambler

and put them on my bike. Hand grips? Rims? Shocks? I don't mean which places sell original or replica parts at crazy costs? I mean, which modern parts will bolt right on as replacements? I don't mind if my bike isn't all-original museum quality, I just want it to look good and work good. If there is a spot for info like this, does anyone have a link? If there isn't a spot, is it worth starting a thread on the subject?

Cheers,

- Chad

Lumbee · « **Reply #95 on:** July 16, 2006, 02:43:08 PM »

...thanx for the compliment Fish...I can only take credit for getting it back on the road after 15 years...the PO did all the work. Yes, it does have duel front disks...not sure how he did it, or if he even remembers after 20 years. PM me if you want the PO's email...

Fish · « **Reply #96 on:** July 18, 2006, 12:12:06 AM »

Lumbee,
I will keep that in mind and once I master some of this beginner stuff I pm you for the advanced.

Well, I got the bike all put back together and fired it up. I set all the air mixture screws at one turn out. Is this right or should I go more. It was tough to start at first but once I did, it seemed to be running way better. Now that I have cleaned all the slow jets, it will idle no problem without any choking

. It's awesome to see improvements after doing a bunch of work.
I put new o-rings on my main jets... so... I'll just need to remember to replace them in another 30 years

. Also my front brake is no longer sticking so it looks like the new fluid/calliper seal/cleaning did the trick.
I am getting a pair of 550k sidecovers (wrong shape but right color) that have already been modified to fit my 'f'. As soon as my exhaust gasket gets here, I'll throw the muffler back on and look at getting this beast registered. Then... I might even ride the damn thing.

Cheers,

- Chad

Fish · « **Reply #97 on:** July 18, 2006, 03:57:50 PM »

Today I did an oil and filter change and then adjusted the cam chain and clutch tension.
I measured the gap on my breaker points and found that it was two or three times what it should be. I closed them down to about 0.04mm and then the bike wouldn't start very well and ran like crap. I did some more reading and realized that I would need to look at my ignition timing as well. I used a multimeter and found that the base plate was off by a bit too. Now that they have both been done, the bike is running good. Maybe only as good as it was before I started making adjustments, but I am expecting that having the correct point gap and timing will help when I have to do the carb tuning.

- Chad

Fish · « **Reply #98 on:** July 21, 2006, 05:07:06 PM »

Well today I got the bike all insured and registered and took it for a spin around town. It even garnered a couple double-takes from folks passing by.
The bike ran pretty good but there are a few things that still need work. the most pressing concern is the clutch. When I pull the clutch in, there is still a slight resistance to the bike moving forward or backward, as though the plates are still making contact slightly. I have adjusted the tension at the crankcase cover and also the two clutch lever points but it doesn't seem to make a difference whether I tighten or loosen it. The biggest thing I noticed is that regardless of tension, when the bike is in gear and I pull in the clutch and kick the kickstarter, it launches the whole bike forward. Pulling the clutch in makes it easier to freewheel the bike forward or backward but seems to make no difference when I go to kickstart. Does this make any sense?
Also, the bike feels kinda sluggish and underpowered but I am hoping that synchronizing the carbs will help a lot. Am I being too optimistic? Will a carb sync make much of a difference? I picked up an electronic flasher relay (they only had the 12v 'heavy duty' model) but it made matters worse. The signal light didn't come on at all that the buzzer sounded constantly. I sanded and cleaned the terminals on the stock flasher and plugged it back in. It works now but not very well. Just when you have waited long enough that you given up hope and resigned yourself to the fact that it has finally conked out - it blinks once. And you go back to waiting for the next one. Someone recommended the DOT 522 relay and I may try to track one of those down (Napa didn't have one).
Anyways just wanted to thank everyone for their help so far. Here is a photo of the bike parked in front of my house (not in the back, up on blocks

)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/honda919/060721.jpg

Cheers,

- Chad

TwoTired · « **Reply #99 on:** July 21, 2006, 05:30:53 PM »

Quote

The biggest thing I noticed is that regardless of tension, when the bike is in gear and I pull in the clutch and kick the kickstarter, it launches the whole bike forward. Pulling the clutch in makes it easier to freewheel the bike forward or backward but seems to make no difference when I go to kickstart. Does this make any sense?

No, not really. The kick start works through the transmission. The trans must be in neutral and the clutch out (engaged) to enable the kickstart to turn over the crankshaft and start the bike. Clearly, if the trans is in gear, the kick start will move the rear wheel. It's a design feature.

You can electric start the bike in neutral or in gear with the clutch in (disengaged). It has it's very own one way clutch.

Turn signals. Check your bulb numbers. The stock flasher works with the lower wattage bulbs supplied by the factory; 1034 and 1073, if I recall correctly. I've found the more commonly available 1156 and 1157 higher wattage bulbs to be problematic with the stock flasher unit.

Power:
I don't know your expectations or what performance comparator you are using. The bike should have quarter mile times of high 14s or low 15s.
Check your brake drag.
Check your head pipes for even temps.
Check your mechanical timing advance.

Bike looks good btw.

Cheers,

News:

Author Topic: My 1975 cb550f. Sidecover Work (Read 22774 times)