Topic: CB550 head removal IN THE FRAME

[Scott S]

 Who here has actually done top end work on a 550 with the engine in the frame?

 I have an annoying oil leak on a freshly rebuilt motor. I'm trying to decide if I want to go back in there and try re-torqueing or replacing seals with the engine in the frame vs. pulling the engine.
 Is it a pain in the butt to work around the frame?

 I know some of you may disagree, but I don't plan on puling the cylinders and base gasket. The leak is definitely coming from up top, even though all o-rings, pucks and head gasket is new. (~300-350 miles).
 If I wanted to have a new head gasket on hand....just in case....where can I get one?

[Greggo]

I've replaced the cam with the motor in the frame...not that bad, and definitely not worth the hassle of removing the motor...My 2 cents...work around the frame.

[luap]

Its not bad to remove the entire top end with motor in frame, think only thing first time I did it was chain tensioner a little tricky to pull out
Dynoman have head an base gaskets you can buy single
paul

[DustyRags]

Definitely possible- I've got mine torn down to the base gasket right now. Pics and commentary here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=110973.0

Other then cracking the base seal, the hardest part was getting the carbs out. Loosen in the front, pull the boot clips off the back, pull the boots off the carbs, stuff them over, drop the carbs out down and to the left. We just pulled the rear boots out entirely. It's tight, but it'll go. Then the head's easy.

[skamagedon]

i also had my pistons hanging out in frame. totally doable.

[Scott S]

 I may have to go back in a second time, but I'm going to try pulling just the breather and valve cover, torque the head with a better wrench than I used the first time, and put some sealant on the "pucks", as per the 'leak free top end' thread.

 If that doesn't fix it, I'll pull the head and start over again with fresh gaskets and seals.

[dave500]

im doing that at the moment,im fitting a new head and first oversize barrel.

[Dimitri13]

Yes, it's not a 750 so you can get the the jugs off in the frame. You should retorque the head nuts and REPLACE the rubber pucks. Make sure you replace or recondition the copper/aluminum washers on the cam cover side covers.

[Scott S]

 Dimitri, all the pucks, o-rings, etc. were brand new less than 4-500 miles ago. This leak started after about 150 miles on a fresh build.

[dave500]

clean the engine well then try and see where its from,you might not need to pull the top end as such?as dimtri suggested those end caps on the cover need a copper washer top and bottom of the bolt that holds its bracket,throw the aluminium ones and be sure the bracket has no burrs where the washers sit.

[sniper1]

I took the top end off last night and replaced the pucks after my rebuild for my '75. Do it while it's in the frame. While I was there, I re-torqued the head. All but two bolts was a little loose and I did have a small oil leak. Hopefully that will clean up the problem.  Gasket set did not come with the pucks, so I just got some new ones from z1 enterprises. It's very easy, just time consuming. Worst part is having to Re-gap the tappet valves. Takes about 2-3 hours if you know what you're doing. Follow the manual and you will be fine.

BTW, I just did it for my '77 550 a few weeks ago also with no issues.

[73hutch]

i've done it before. one thing, when putting it back together make sure the bolts for the breather cover go in straight. the top tube of frame makes it a little tricky.