Topic: RE: How many Pounds of Powder to Powdercoat a cb750 Frame & Swing Arm 1/4 lbs?

[chewbacca5000]

I need to order powder and would like to know how many pounds of pound it will take to powder coat a frame and swing arm?  Its a cb750.

The powdercoater recommends powderbythepound
http://www.powderbuythepound.com/BONDED_STARDUST_SILVER_SPARKLE
http://www.powderbuythepound.com/CRYSTAL_CLEAR_SUPER_DURABLE_HIGH_GLOSS_CLEAR/

Much Thanks!

This site http://1offpowdercoating.com/FAQ_s.html says it only takes 1/4 pound of power for a frame single coat.  Does this sound right?

[bollingball]

You got a oven big enough for a frame?
Ken

[chewbacca5000]

You got a oven big enough for a frame?
Ken

No, but I got an utrasonic cleaner big enough for a block.  Guy down the road has one and can do candy and metallic so I figure I will give him a try.

If you look up all the cost does not seem like it is worth it for a one off.

[Harsh]

I would say that two pounds would be plenty.  I ordered 5 pounds when I did my stuff and I did a whole lot more than the frame and swingarm and I still have a good 2-3 pounds left.

[chewbacca5000]

I would say that two pounds would be plenty.  I ordered 5 pounds when I did my stuff and I did a whole lot more than the frame and swingarm and I still have a good 2-3 pounds left.

Thanks this helps a bunch!

[Harsh]

I bought my powder from http://www.propowdersupply.com/

They are a little cheaper and have great customer service.

[mcuozzo]

Harsh is correct, two pounds is more than enough but get that much since you'll find other parts you'll want to match.

I would stick with Powder by the pound, just because the pc guy probably is used to using there stuff. 

Is he going to sandblast the frame?  I use goal slag.  Prefer the texture of the surface better than bead blasting.  I'm sure you know this but the surface has to be etched in some way for pc to properly adhere.

Also if possible have your pc'er do a test of the base and than the base with clear.   I use 6 inch pieces of standard black pipe to test the colors first. Wouldn't want to be stuck with a color you are not happy with...

[chewbacca5000]

Harsh is correct, two pounds is more than enough but get that much since you'll find other parts you'll want to match.

I would stick with Powder by the pound, just because the pc guy probably is used to using there stuff. 

Is he going to sandblast the frame?  I use goal slag.  Prefer the texture of the surface better than bead blasting.  I'm sure you know this but the surface has to be etched in some way for pc to properly adhere.

Also if possible have your pc'er do a test of the base and than the base with clear.   I use 6 inch pieces of standard black pipe to test the colors first. Wouldn't want to be stuck with a color you are not happy with...

Thanks for all the great replies.  This helps alot.  I got alot riding on this and want it to come out great.  I was nervous at first when he told me to look at pics on the website.  If you know anything about metallic paint it is hard to get a good pic.  the 1/2" squares on the website did nothing for me.  So I brought him a side cover and he had a book of samples which are baked with the power from powderbythepound and I picked out a nice silver.

I like your pipe idea I did the same think experimenting with candy paint.  Works great.  Having a contour really helps things out.  Bottles may work too.

This guy is good he can do candy, metallic, and translucent.  All require skill. 

As for the smoothness this is an area of confusion.  Both my blaster and the pc guy say smooth is key.  I know if I paint candy the primer has to be 600 grit before laying down basecoat.

With powder coating I have no clue what the minimum smoothness is for metallic.

[mcuozzo]

Well in my opinion\experience smoothness is the enemy of proper adhesion.   When I was first starting to pc, I tried to coat a chrome derby cover for a harley.  Worked and looked good but the pc would chip easily.  I sandblasted to etch the surface, not remove the chrome, than recoated and the pc stood up to abuse like a pc'ed part should.

I've done some candy's but not anything like the silver you are looking at.  I think we may be talking two different things.  Your pc'er might be talking about larger gauges\imperfections on the frame.  What I'm saying is that the part needs to be etched in some way, either by sanding or blasting to give it rough surface to adhere too.  PC intially adheres to the part through electrostatic charge.  Then the baking melts the pc onto the part where it needs some sort of roughness to adhere to.  Otherwise it will be a layer of pc sitting on top of the part just waiting to be chipped off.  I hope that makes sense.

The powdercoat will take care of smoothing out the final surface.  It should get to a point where it melts, flows out and levels itself.  If you have the right amount of pc and keep it in the flowing stage the right amount of time, the final surface should be smooth.

There is much more info on powdercoating over on caswellplating.com.  This thread in particular has the steps for proper pc'ing.

http://forum.caswellplating.com/powder-coating-questions/13749-recommended-process.html

If I can dig 'em up, I'll find some pics of some parts I've done.  I should have before, during and after of some projects.  It'll show you the etched surface I'm talking about.

You can also sand blast the part, use a base coat of silver to get a smoother surface than coat with the metallic.  The second coat will adhere to the first coat even if it is pretty smooth.  It'll basically melt together.  I've used a primer coat before to smooth out some rough parts, but primer is usually gray and may dull you metallic finish.

Hey I found a pic of a wheel we did.  It was chrome, than etched with sandblasting than pc a mirror black.  Came out pretty smooth although it started out etched.  And lo and behold I also have a picture of the frame (Done by a buddy, but I taught him everything he knows...about pc'ing at least).  Also the tank and headlight ears were done by us too.  Don't say anything about the seat...it's a work in progress...

Good luck...

Matt

[chewbacca5000]

Thanks a bunch Matt this helps to put things in perspective and help me direct by blaster properly.

What you said here is the way I understood powder, but got confused by my blaster and the PC.

It should get to a point where it melts, flows out and levels itself.

Great work I on wheel love the satin finish.  Can't stand gloss black on wheels it looks spray painted with Rustoleum.

Would love to see a pic of the peeped surface to make sure the texture is correct before sending to the PC.

If you keep posting tips like these I will be stinking up my house in no time!

[Harsh]

I would stick with Powder by the pound, just because the pc guy probably is used to using there stuff.

A lot of good info mcuozzo.

FWIW...pro powder supply uses the exact same stuff that powder by the pound uses.  I talked to the guy that ownes the place and he said they get it from the same supplier.

For other color options you can check out my build thread.  About half way through I have some pics of my powder coating.

[mcuozzo]

Here is a pic of a sandblasted swingarm.  Not the best pic, have better on an old hard drive or I can snap pics this weekend.   But if you look towards the bottom of the right arm, you can kind of make out the surface is etched\frosted.  Maybe the blaster is considering this as smooth, maybe what he really means is uniform?  I mean he is a blaster by trade, so he basically makes surfaces rough for a living, no???

[chewbacca5000]

Here is a pic of a sandblasted swingarm.  Not the best pic, have better on an old hard drive or I can snap pics this weekend.   But if you look towards the bottom of the right arm, you can kind of make out the surface is etched\frosted.  Maybe the blaster is considering this as smooth, maybe what he really means is uniform?  I mean he is a blaster by trade, so he basically makes surfaces rough for a living, no???

I hope he mean uniform as the profile from some tanks he did is about the same as that.  Hope it all goes well.  We'll see.