Topic: cb750k4 how to plug up the chain oiler!??!

[killersoundz]

Is there any standard way of cutting off the chain oiler? Thing keeps pissing oil all over my motorcycle room! Mostly drips down the kick stand. 100% sure it's from the chain oiler as I loosened it up one time and it poured out a ton. I have it as tight as it goes but still have little puddles 

[dhall57]

Loosen large center nut and than use small screwdriver and tighten down center screw and than re-tighten large nut. No more chain oiler.

[WhyNot2]

Me too, changed my sprockets and chain, now I get puddles down the kick stand too.

Didn't happen till I changed them. Guess I have to do the same................................!!

Good Luck !

[754]

 There is a company making some, not sure they are o ring sealed. I made up a couple , a bit more involved than I had thought. Have not had a chance to test them.

[Dream750]

Here’s a cheap option, but I haven’t personally used it.
 
http://jokermachine.com/products/cafe-racer/honda-cb750-parts/cb750-chain-oiler-plug.html

[seanbarney41]

It could also be the counter shaft seal, or a cracked case is very common in this area.  Clean up the case very carefully around the sprocket and check for cracks.

[andrewk]

Here’s a cheap option, but I haven’t personally used it.
 
http://jokermachine.com/products/cafe-racer/honda-cb750-parts/cb750-chain-oiler-plug.html

Shouldn't matter, but I cringe at the thought of putting silicone sealer in the output shaft.  Would be effective though.

[killersoundz]

Loosen large center nut and than use small screwdriver and tighten down center screw and than re-tighten large nut. No more chain oiler.

I've got that center screw tightened up all the way already.

I'm pretty convinced 99% it's from the chain oiler since it only started doing this after I loosened the center screw of it up a bit to see what happened, and what happened was a huge puddle of oil, then I tightened it up again....

This is what I'm dealing with just little drops

[Dream750]

Shouldn't matter, but I cringe at the thought of putting silicone sealer in the output shaft.  Would be effective though.

I agree. The Joker plug is an affordable option for the OP and others. The Yamiya plug is better design, but much more expensive:

http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_53&products_id=115

[754]

The Yamiya does not use an Oring, looks like the KO shafts are different in the bore maybe. Not sure how that locktab would work on Yamiya.
 The O ring ones I made would come in under that price.

[70CB750]

What is the thread on it, Frank, would you know?

[754]

 Will try to get pics, think it was 12 mm, made them out of 7075, with a hollowed out hex head..

[70CB750]

Thanks!

[MCRider]

You can cut the top off of a sparkplug and run that in. The part has to go in far enough to cover the hole that lets the oil out, which resides under the sprocket.  Any plug you use must be as long as the threads on a sparkplug "E". (First hand)

Several threads on this subject. I think a FAQ talks about removing the sprocket, cutting an ORing and threading that thru the hole.  (never tried it)

The Yamiya piece is OEM and won't turn the oiler off IMO.  Doesn't look like the Joker piece goes in far enough either, though pushing some silicone in advance of the plug may reach the hole.

Finally, if you ever have the cases open remove the catch tray that funnels oil into the drive shaft. That will cut it off permanently. (First hand knowledge)

[70CB750]

I like the spark plug, true MacGyver 

Well that makes it M12x1.25 thread.

[754]

 It's 14. MM.
 Took a bit of figuring. To come upwith my design, yes that hole needs plugging, is a long ways in.

 Here is my, thought out design.. And it weighs 11 trams..

[754]

 Look at these..

[MCRider]

It's 14. MM.
 Took a bit of figuring. To come upwith my design, yes that hole needs plugging, is a long ways in.

 Here is my, thought out design.. And it weighs 11 trams..

14mm. Really?

Those are cute. Make one want to run without the cover.   

[754]

 If you build a bike part, it should look nice, and save weight..jmo..

[70CB750]

Very nice, Frank!

[Dream750]

The Yamiya does not use an Oring, looks like the KO shafts are different in the bore maybe. Not sure how that locktab would work on Yamiya.
 The O ring ones I made would come in under that price.

The early K0 up to engine number: CB750E-1026143 used a different shaft and a solid plug design. Oil flow control on those engines was adjusted by adding or removing shims between the plug and shaft. Later OEM plugs had an adjusting screw. Note the differences between the early and late type of plug thread design: 
 
http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_53

The lock tab inside ear fits in the valley of the shaft splines to prevent rotation, then the outer ears are bent over to secure the plug.
 
BTW: Your prototype plug looks great and I want one.

[MCRider]

The Yamiya does not use an Oring, looks like the KO shafts are different in the bore maybe. Not sure how that locktab would work on Yamiya.
 The O ring ones I made would come in under that price.

The early K0 up to engine number: CB750E-1026143 used a different shaft and a solid plug design. Oil flow control on those engines was adjusted by adding or removing shims between the plug and shaft. Later OEM plugs had an adjusting screw. Note the differences between the early and late type of plug thread design: 
 
http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_53

The lock tab inside ear fits in the valley of the shaft splines to prevent rotation, then the outer ears are bent over to secure the plug.
 
BTW: Your prototype plug looks great and I want one.

I think, also, IIRC, the OEM plug we are looking at here, could never turn the oiler completely off, regardles of the thickness, or lack of, washer. The later adjustable plug was also considered an upgrade to the early plug, a retrofit. But even it at full "off" mode, still allowed a drip to get thru.

I'm fairly certain the thread size is a 12mm as I am certain that a sparkplug will do the job and its 12mm. Have to hack saw or break the top off of it, so it will fit. Not too elegant perhaps, but functional.

[70CB750]

I have it screwed all the way in and it still keeps dripping, just a little bit, but enoough to leave a spot.  I think I need to plug it.

Frank, are you going to make few of those?

[754]

 I will try to get  some more , turned and milled. The tricky part is getting it to seal. Sparkplug would get the end,  but not plug the side hole..
  I forgot about the locktab  going in the spline just like stock part.

[MCRider]

I will try to get  some more , turned and milled. The tricky part is getting it to seal. Sparkplug would get the end,  but not plug the side hole..
  I forgot about the locktab  going in the spline just like stock part.

I'll check again tonight, but my memory is that if you use the "E" length plug, standard in our motors, not the 12mm/"H" length plug which is shorter, the threads are long enough to cover the hole and seal it off.
OCICBW
Not to say one shouldn't use a trick hand made part if one were available. Lord knows I've bot my share.

One could silicone the spark plug in place which seems to be OK per Joker. Or LokTite. But I'd rather have something that the OEM lock tab could bite into, for piece of mind. The spark plug hex is too far away from the end of the shaft for the OEM lock tab to work.  I'd hate for what ever i put in that hole to ever come out.

In my case, I already pulled out the collection pan, so I'm not in the market. The stock adjustable affair is in place but does nothing but keep the bugs out.