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pull the emulsion tubes? If you mean the overflow tubes in the bowls.
Quote from: rockadoo on December 29, 2012, 09:45:57 PMpull the emulsion tubes? If you mean the overflow tubes in the bowls.No, the emulsion tubes.
Doing it halfway will likely not solve your problem.Take the carbs off, do a real clean, and a real service. I've never understood why anyone would want to dick around with contorted hands and making special little tools to work at right angles, etc.Take 10 minutes, remove the carbs, and then you can actually do a real carb service. Not removing the emulsion tubes for cleaning is about as short-sighted as one can get on this project. They are notorious for being plugged.A 500/550 OEM manual can be had for free if you can use Google. Use the google search on this forum to find many, many, many, many threads on servicing 500/550 carbs. There's at least one "how to" that I've seen in recent months.[/quot+1As a sideline, I ultrasonicaly clean all of the carbs for a local MC shop; they sublet their work to me because I have the proper equipment. Carbs are NOT cleaned simply by pulling the jets and emulsion tubes. What about the tiny passageways in the idle and low speed circuits? They don't collect varnish or gummy residue from Ethanol? These passagewas are so small that even a little blockage represents a significant percentage decrease in fuel flow. And, you can't access these passageways by sight or by hand. To gain an understanding of just how tiny some of the idle circuit passageways are, take a look at the tip of your idle mixture screw; now imagine how small the passageway must be for flow to be affected by an intrusion as tiny as the idle mixture screw's tip.The entire bodies need to be ultrasonicaly cleaned using a PROFESSIONAL-grade ultrasonic cleaner, hgh heat, and chemicals specifically optimized for the ultrasonic cavitation process. Anything short of this and you are just kidding yourself if you think the carbs are fully clean, which they need to be in order to function correctly.I can't count the number of cases that I have seen where people spent good money on rebuild kits because they thought that would relieve their carb issues, only to find the issues still there afterwards. They give up and bring the bike to the shop and I get the call to pick up the carbs. At least 75% of the time the rebuild kits were a complete waste of money because the carbs just needed a proper cleaning. Even when a proper cleaning doesn't alleviate the problem, it still serves a critical role by allowing you to eliminate possible carb contamination as the source of the issues; you can then move on to other possible causes.Carb spray cleaner, dip tanks, Simple Green, etc simply are not in the same league as professional ultrasonic cleaning and do not give assurance that the carbs are indeed clean.
Quote from: andrewk on December 30, 2012, 11:04:23 AMDoing it halfway will likely not solve your problem.Take the carbs off, do a real clean, and a real service. I've never understood why anyone would want to dick around with contorted hands and making special little tools to work at right angles, etc.Take 10 minutes, remove the carbs, and then you can actually do a real carb service. Not removing the emulsion tubes for cleaning is about as short-sighted as one can get on this project. They are notorious for being plugged.A 500/550 OEM manual can be had for free if you can use Google. Use the google search on this forum to find many, many, many, many threads on servicing 500/550 carbs. There's at least one "how to" that I've seen in recent months.[/quot+1As a sideline, I ultrasonicaly clean all of the carbs for a local MC shop; they sublet their work to me because I have the proper equipment. Carbs are NOT cleaned simply by pulling the jets and emulsion tubes. What about the tiny passageways in the idle and low speed circuits? They don't collect varnish or gummy resudue from Ethanol? These passagewas are so small that even a little blockage represents a significant percentage decrease in fuel flow. And, you can't access these passageways by sight or by hand. To gain an understanding of just how tiny some of the idle circuit passageways are, take a look at the tip of your idle mixture screw; now imagine how small the passageway must be for flow to be affected by an intrusion as tiny as the idle mixture screw's tip.The entire bodies need to be ultrasonicaly cleaned using a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner, hgh heat, and chemicals specifically optimized for the ultrasonic cavitation process. Anything short of this and you are just kidding yourself if you think the carbs are fully clean, which they need to be in order to function correctly.Carb spray cleaner, dip tanks, Simple Green, etc simply are not in the same league.Mainerider, so you are saying that nobody has ever got their carbs fully clean before the use of ultrasonic cleaners? Lot's of guys here have been doing this for a long time. Pre-ethanol gas cloggs up carbs just as bad as ethanol, when it sits around for 5+ years...
Doing it halfway will likely not solve your problem.Take the carbs off, do a real clean, and a real service. I've never understood why anyone would want to dick around with contorted hands and making special little tools to work at right angles, etc.Take 10 minutes, remove the carbs, and then you can actually do a real carb service. Not removing the emulsion tubes for cleaning is about as short-sighted as one can get on this project. They are notorious for being plugged.A 500/550 OEM manual can be had for free if you can use Google. Use the google search on this forum to find many, many, many, many threads on servicing 500/550 carbs. There's at least one "how to" that I've seen in recent months.[/quot+1As a sideline, I ultrasonicaly clean all of the carbs for a local MC shop; they sublet their work to me because I have the proper equipment. Carbs are NOT cleaned simply by pulling the jets and emulsion tubes. What about the tiny passageways in the idle and low speed circuits? They don't collect varnish or gummy resudue from Ethanol? These passagewas are so small that even a little blockage represents a significant percentage decrease in fuel flow. And, you can't access these passageways by sight or by hand. To gain an understanding of just how tiny some of the idle circuit passageways are, take a look at the tip of your idle mixture screw; now imagine how small the passageway must be for flow to be affected by an intrusion as tiny as the idle mixture screw's tip.The entire bodies need to be ultrasonicaly cleaned using a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner, hgh heat, and chemicals specifically optimized for the ultrasonic cavitation process. Anything short of this and you are just kidding yourself if you think the carbs are fully clean, which they need to be in order to function correctly.Carb spray cleaner, dip tanks, Simple Green, etc simply are not in the same league.
I have an ultrasonic, but it's not big enough to fit a carb into. I saw one at Harbor Freight last week in the $80 range but not sure if it's big enough either. That being said I have previously used Yamaha Carb cleaner mixed with water and brought to almost a boil and dipped an cv carb that was so gummed up the slide wouldnt work. I was amazed how good it worked. Bolted it onto the bike and it ran great. I guess I'm wasting my time as I'm not going to tear these carbs apart. just finding fuel line for between them would be a chore as no mc shops or auto supply around here carry that thin walled fuel line. If I had a pot big enough to dip the whole set into the yamaha cleaner I'd try that, but until I find a "perfect" step by step diagram or video I've gone as far as I plan to. I'd rather have the bike run just ok than have it in pieces and never have it run again. I've tackled single and dual carbs and even a triple ,cable controlled mikuni and amal carbs..No linkage no weirdness
