Author Topic: Doing sheet metal work tips, tools..and what not to do...or buy (Read 5928 times)

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #25 on:** January 21, 2013, 06:50:36 AM »

Raef, Good work!

I know (from Experience) some aluminum on AIRCRAFT we had to anneal 7075-T-6 so we could form the part then the part had to be Heat treated back to T-6 hardness. Cold working the metal does very little to cause it to harden back to T-6 strength.Annealing softens the metal and aligns the grain so it can be cold worked, annealing has to be done AGAIN after the cold work then either fast quenched in a water solution or allowed to LONG cool. SOME aluminum's HAS to be Heat Treated to temper the metal or it will stay soft and malleable. Most aircraft parts are formed(cold worked) from either 2024 T-3 or 7075 "0". The 2024 does not require a heat treat because it STAYED T-3 but the 7075 HAS to be H/T to give it strength otherwise the metal won't hold it's shape just from vibrations.

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

754 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 21, 2013, 02:51:15 PM »

I spoke with Roger today, his choice for most parts on a bike is 3003 h 14..which is halfhard...0 may be hard to source. He then still anneals with flame. He haqs built some prettyimpressive sheetmeetal parts for motorcycles,including fairings that have helped him set world records on the salt flats..
Franken,unless you get a tig, you can always gas weld, , it is a less hard weld anyway, and you will need a torch on hand anyway to anneal.

FrankenFrankenstuff · « **Reply #27 on:** January 21, 2013, 05:21:09 PM »

754 - the last time I touched a torch I killed aluminum. I will go find the pic.

754 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 21, 2013, 08:41:14 PM »

Well you will pretty well need one or similar to anneal if youare working with aluminum..
Suck it up if you want to learn it, mistakes will be made.
Make it easy on your self. No guarantee your first try will be something that you want to show anybody.. Nobody. Aces it first try.. So make it easy, get soft easy to work wth material, and see how it feels..

754 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 21, 2013, 08:45:22 PM »

I remember whengoldammer showed us the first piece he tried making..it came out pretty good, it was stainless..tough to work with.. He learned quickly, and is a wizard with metal.. - I should get a few pics of his truck..pretty cool metalwork..

scottly · « **Reply #30 on:** January 21, 2013, 08:58:57 PM »

Quote from: The Honorable Mr. FrankenFrankenstuff on January 21, 2013, 05:21:09 PM

754 - the last time I touched a torch I killed aluminum. I will go find the pic.

Use a rosebud; it will spread the heat out more evenly. To anneal, first lay down a light coating of soot, with a rich mixture from the torch, then turn up the oxygen and evenly heat up the part until the soot burns off.

754 · « **Reply #31 on:** January 27, 2013, 08:54:31 AM »

Anyone working on their sheet lately ?

Stev-o · « **Reply #32 on:** January 27, 2013, 09:14:23 AM »

Quote from: 754 on January 27, 2013, 08:54:31 AM

Anyone working on their sheet lately ?

I think "Your Honor" is out and been drinking the whiskey I sent him!

FrankenFrankenstuff · « **Reply #33 on:** February 17, 2013, 06:05:20 PM »

OK knuckle heads. I have been messing with the planishing hammer.
First off, here is my delrin hammer that I made for the initial banging form.

da template for my test.

frigging planished

FRIGGING LOUD

FRIGGING GIANT BANDSAW!!

no I didnt buy it

I actually havent done anything else since that initial test. I was using some .000000000000000002 crapola from the Depot for my test. No heat treating, no planning, just cut..and bang bang bang. Very fulfilling. I was told that it was too disruptive to use at work and that I can only use it on Sundays when nobody is there. ug.

754 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 17, 2013, 07:17:10 PM »

2 good articles in the new Street Rodder..goes into some detail on partial annealing..and a good overview of compound curves..

malcolmgb · « **Reply #35 on:** February 22, 2013, 03:29:00 PM »

I am thinking of trying my hand at sheet metal work, some small dishes, and intended making a sand filled bag from 2 pieces of leather I have, should I use the nap side or the smooth finished side.

754 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 24, 2013, 09:13:36 PM »

I found some old pieces I roughed out long ago..
The hard way, without annealing..cant remember what i used on the black piece..it is a partial seat pan for a 20,s motorcycle..

I found out i can anneal using a small propane torch, using soap to determine when temp is reached.
Mostly I wanted to find out if it was enough heat to anneal an 1/8 thick piece like the seat pan.. It was..
After I annealed it I worked off a few high spots

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #37 on:** August 25, 2013, 07:04:00 AM »

Those POWER hammers are real LOUD!!!! I was cutting some STEEL sheet on our band saw at work and a SUP. tried to tell me I couldn't use the saw because it was TOO loud. I guess I was disturbing his sleep!

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

FrankenFrankenstuff · « **Reply #38 on:** August 25, 2013, 07:10:31 AM »

Soap? Sounds like a secret tech. I have heard of using the oxy smoke on the surface.

Raef · « **Reply #39 on:** August 25, 2013, 07:30:58 AM »

Quote from: FrankenFrankenstuff on August 25, 2013, 07:10:31 AM

Soap? Sounds like a secret tech. I have heard of using the oxy smoke on the surface.

You heat the piece and check the temp by rubbing the soap on it to see if it melts, like a temp stick. I like to heat steel by color, when heating it will go from brown to blue then it will start glowing orange. Heat till it till it just turns brown and let it cool slowly, this makes steel fairly easy to move around.

754 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 25, 2013, 08:27:51 AM »

I was trying to avoid using torches, which i dont have setup right now.
Mainly I wanted to find out if a Bernzomatic. Could get the thick seatpan hot enough..at 1/8 thick. I used a yellow cylinder, its a bit hotter.
I just scribble bar soap around the surface, enough so that all areas have some. When you get it hot enough , the soap turns black, and you are done.
That is on Aluminum...not steel..

Raef · « **Reply #41 on:** August 25, 2013, 09:42:09 AM »

Quote from: 754 on August 25, 2013, 08:27:51 AM

I was trying to avoid using torches, which i dont have setup right now.
Mainly I wanted to find out if a Bernzomatic. Could get the thick seatpan hot enough..at 1/8 thick. I used a yellow cylinder, its a bit hotter.
I just scribble bar soap around the surface, enough so that all areas have some. When you get it hot enough , the soap turns black, and you are done.
That is on Aluminum...not steel..

That's a good idea since aluminum don't change colors, it just turns in to a puddle. I have a small torch I carry in a tool bag that uses the small throw away bottles, you can use mapp or propane and oxygen, the whole set up was around 50 bucks. You can get them at tsc or menards, it gets as hot as a full size set and it is very handy

754 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 25, 2013, 09:44:02 AM »

Are you talking plumbers torches? I would like something cheap that could gas weld aluminum..

Raef · « **Reply #43 on:** August 25, 2013, 02:13:55 PM »

yes, i suppose I bought this one to braze the lines when installing my central air units, it gets hot enough to weld aluminum but i would suggest preheating the pieces to get better flow. I use 4043 stick welding rods when i gas weld aluminum, mostly because they work pretty well and they are pretty easy to find, but they are expensive, about $20-$25 per lb. one of these days i am going to order some filler rods that are purpose made of such a task

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #44 on:** August 26, 2013, 06:20:58 AM »

Quote from: FrankenFrankenstuff on January 15, 2013, 01:15:23 PM

Anybody have some decent sheetmetal hand tools they would like to trade for new side covers?

Have you got a shear? I have a stomp shear that will handle up to about 52" width... I think (48" at least) and at least 18ga galvanized (20ga stainless) although those thicknesses might be tough to cut full width...

Shipping from Florida might be steep too...

754 · « **Reply #45 on:** September 14, 2013, 02:30:32 PM »

Dont know if any of youare familiar with this. TuckPuck..
Just built one for myself,great for stretching and shrinking.... Found out about it on Youtube..
..very useful..

Head · « **Reply #46 on:** October 09, 2013, 10:54:38 AM »

I like this place, lots of interesting stuff, and info, if you have not all ready seen it.

http://www.tinmantech.com/

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Author Topic: Doing sheet metal work tips, tools..and what not to do...or buy (Read 5928 times)