Author Topic: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100  (Read 1144 times)

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Offline Tugboat

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Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« on: January 16, 2013, 10:26:42 AM »
Figured I'd share this saga here as well.

I'm replacing the leaky water pump on my '83 GL1100. Everything was going along swimmingly when I broke off this one bolt that is directly beneath the leaky pump. The bolt attaches the transmission/water pump cover to the engine. There are about a 1/2 inch of threads that are broken-off inside the hole:


As you can see from this picture of the offending bolt, it is quite corroded.



Two hours of slow, slow drilling got me to this point - a 1/8 hole:


A friend of mine brought this over, which I figured was better than the "squared-off" EZ-Outs I got from Sears for $12.


So I tapped in the shaft, heated the cases with a heat gun (probably not enough) and gave it a twist.


You could already tell that it was going to snap if I forced it too much, so I attached a pair of vice grips to the end that was already buggered and tapped it back out. So, the hole as it stands now:


I should also note that after doing a little cleaning I found that the bolt goes all the way through the hole - almost up against one of the case bolts. I have been applying PB Blaster to this side and the front.


To be continued....
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice.

Offline Tugboat

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Re: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2013, 01:07:59 PM »
So here we go!

I'll be using these extractors:




Been soaking this sucker in Kroil every time I've gone downstairs for the past few days. I drilled the bolt all the way through at 1/8 and then again at 9/64. Had my buddy heat up the case with a torch, then tapped in the extractor and gave it a twist.


No go. I could feel the extractor slipping inside the bolt. Tapped it again with a hammer to better seat it, and my buddy gave it a twist. The vice grips he was using slipped on the extractor and made a loud "SNAP!"... I thought that it had broken off inside, but luckily it was just the slip and we were able to wiggle it back out. Here's how it looked:


I kept slowly drilling, stepping up to 5/32, heated the case, tapped in the extractor, twist... nothing.


Up to 11/64.. at this point, the first parts of the threads are starting to pull loose. I grabbed it with some needle-nose pliers and pulled it out. Reinsert the extractor, twist, nothing.


Finally, I drill out at 3/16, which is about is big in diameter as the bolt itself. Since my camber is a bit off, I'm not drilling exactly through the center of the bolt, but catching some of the "upper left" - 11 o'clock-ish - of the bolt's threads and, as the bit exits the back side, into the aluminum case. Not much, just a bit. Here's how it looked from the front:


At this point I'm ready to give up and haul the whole bike over to a guy who can properly fix it. While I'm opening another beer, my buddy looks around at the backside of the bolt and, seeing that there is hardly any metal of the bolt left, and that the backside is not corroded, uses a punch to "bend in" the remaining parts of the exposed threads.

Well, I guess that tapping was enough to dislodge the rest of the threads, and, well, here ya go:


The remaining threads:






When I originally broke this off, I had a hard time getting the shank out of the hole in the cover - presumably because when it broke, the torque caused the end to flare. The same must have been true with the threads that were inside the hole - they flared, lodging them up into the threads in the case and thus would not come out. You can see how it's not corroded at all.. It must have just been the buggered first few threads that were holding it in there.








TL;DR: I broke a bolt, then took my time and some heat and penetrant and was able to finally extract the broken bit.

I'm borrowing a thread restore kit this weekend and we'll see if the remaining threads are still usable.
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice.

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Re: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2013, 05:41:36 PM »
Tug,

Congrats. That's real relief!

Craftsman also has a really nice thread chaser set to add to your tool collection. It works well to clean out threads and partial repair.

How do you like the straight extractor vs the spiral style?
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Offline trueblue

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Re: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2013, 02:42:59 AM »
The best way to remove broken bolts from aluminium is use a mig welder and build up blobs on the end until you have enough to grab with some vise grips, then unscrew it.  The welder won't touch the aluminium, unless you're careless, and applies heat exactly where you need it to for breaking down the corrosion holding the bolt in the case ;).
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Offline Tugboat

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Re: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2013, 11:08:05 AM »
Borrowed a thread chaser from a buddy of mine this weekend and gave it a shot. It's like a tap, but doesn't cut new threads; rather, it follows the old threads and sorts them out. Didn't know if there was enough left of them to be useful. So, I sprayed some WD-40 in the hole and slowly turned it in.




Worked a treat!


If I really had to torque down on this bolt I might have drilled it out and inserted a Helicoil.. but it only has to hold 9-11 ft/lbs, which is little more than finger-tight. So I think it'll do. Will be using some blue Locktite just in case.
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Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Re: Removing a broken bolt from under the water pump on my GL1100
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2013, 11:24:04 AM »
Do your other holes while you have that. They come in handy.
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)