Topic: 1972 cb500 - Charging system issue

[zenocchio]

That short that didn't start happening until you started working by the handlebars.... Sounds like a dead short on the button  (did someone solder a blob  to make a repair?perhaps that is it.)or an open wire  in the bars.
Or have you closely checked the starter wire for breaks or pinches particularly in the case  entering/through/and exiting the chain and sprocket area?could there be some insulation missing to cause a short? Anything look black or white sparked along the way in there? Are there and rub damages to same wire where it could have come in constant contact with the battery box? Did you switch this wire when you changed over to the new harness?Have you extended it ? Soldered it? Sealed and taped it in a wire loom?
If you were to put a remote starer button or switch and bypass the handle bar button, does it still blow fuses? or does it all operate properly?

Thanks for your input mate!
The wiring is all sealed and taped, so that is off the list. I will check the ones coming from the case. But first I will try to bypass the starter switch, I have a three functions switch like this one that I use for blinkers horn and starter.
No wiring through the handlebars everything is exposed for now.

[zenocchio]

The switch is the problem. I disconnect it and everything is fine now. I might have wired it wrong. Just to be sure here it is:
E and F are starter and horn (light green and yellow/red), while G and D are left and right signal power (orange and light green) A and C are connected together and are the ground (green in the original harness). I left B disconnected as for blinkers is redundant. Is my assumption correct?
At this point is my wiring is ok, the short is in the switch itself, that somehow makes a contact with the handlebar.

[zenocchio]

A quick update. I have been busy with other projects so not too much done.
I've installed grips mirrors and the new switches. I also decided for the tank colour and went with green. I replanned the electronics and battery configuration for a smaller seat, I moved everything under the seat pan and will have it professionally done here in Vancouver.
I am thinking about getting a regulator/rectifier combo to save some space, any recommendation? I see on the bay a lot of similar ones going for 90$. Is it possible to get them cheaper?

[iron_worker]

I've read of guys using automotive regulator/rectifiers. I think I remember reading about somehow who used one for a Ford Ranger? It was cheap ... like $20 I think.

Some searching around would probably pull it up.

IW

[zenocchio]

A quick update.
I have installed and wired the aftermarket switches, all good but the signals don't blink. The light are solid. I changed the relay with an electronic 2 pin one but still no flashing. I will check the grounding again, lets see if I can sort it out.
I ordered a solid state rectifier regulator combo that will help to shave off some room in the electrical box that I just re made to accommodate the battery too. Next week I will have a new seat made so it will be time to ride!
Still on my list there is synchronizing the carburetors and adjusting the tappets.
The engine turns on as soon as I push the start button, but it makes an awful valves sound.
I am now looking at different seat styles I would like to have the frame shown but the back is still original and uncutted as I haven't made an welded a seat loop. Any suggestions out there on how to mask the ugly rear part of the frame?

I would like to go with a low profile seat like these ones:

[wowbagger]

All of your example photos have a cafe loop welded in. If you want to leave the rear uncut then I'd think you'd need to either go wider on the seat pan after it passes the shock mounts or do a rear cowl that came down over the frame.

I'll be interested to see what you come up with since I'm sort of in the same boat. I want to do a lower profile flat brat seat but I like the look of the old chrome fender too much to chop it off.

The bike is looking great.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I like the brat style seat. What kind if structure supports it?

[zenocchio]

Bike is almost done, I just have to synchronize the carbs and check valves      As the engine makes a clicking and ticking sound on the head
Seat is done and electronics fixed. The electronic start doesn't work, but the bike starts at the first kick. I will check the wiring in the headlight as I feel that the solenoid is working fine.

[zenocchio]

Here is a video showing the noise coming from the head. Any suggestion?

The smoke coming from the exhaust is due to the new wraps I hope, unless I have a leak. What is the torque for the exhaust bolts?

[wowbagger]

That seat came out awesome. Any chance you could post a few shots of the underside?

As for the noise, I'd start by adjusting your tappets to spec if you haven't already.

[hondamatteo]

Bike has come together very nicely, congrats! Shouldn't be long before you have it on the road.

[zenocchio]

That seat came out awesome. Any chance you could post a few shots of the underside?

As for the noise, I'd start by adjusting your tappets to spec if you haven't already.

Thanks mate. Sorry or the bad iPhone pics but here we are:

[hondamatteo]

So I was driving past carter honda today and noticed an old cb500 in the lot. Stopped in and pretty sure it was your bike. You sell it?

[zenocchio]

So I was driving past carter honda today and noticed an old cb500 in the lot. Stopped in and pretty sure it was your bike. You sell it?

Too early to sell it, season hasn't started yet

[hondamatteo]

So you didnt sell it? Looking at your pics I am 100% sure it was yours in the lot?

[zenocchio]

So you didnt sell it? Looking at your pics I am 100% sure it was yours in the lot?

I took it for carbs sync,
We should go ride sometimes!

[hondamatteo]

Dang, would have let you borrow my carb sync tool if you wanted. Ya I'm always down for a weekend ride somewhere

[zenocchio]

Finally the bike is on the road!

I took it out this weekend and I had so much fun! it is not 100% sorted as few adjustments were needed. Adjusted te brakes and the clutch it is now running great and very smooth.
The only issue that I am facing now is the charging system as the battery drains in approx 80miles. I checked the alternator first and found that one of the wires of the field coil was desoldiered. Fixed that the system is still not charging.
I have a new solid regulator rectifier, i read that is should warm up and being hot but actually after a long ride it is just warm.

I will test the system as soon as I put my hands on an amperometer.
One more thing, te field coil was not bolted to the alternator cover, I have Been riding it with an awful noise and vibrations until I realized that it actually has to be bolted. Did I damaged it?

[hondamatteo]

Ya I thought I may have passed you at Spanish banks on the weekend. I was crammed on my little blue 350f with my gf, a bag and a BBQ, haha. Double check all your charging system connections but you may have damaged that stator with it bouncing around.

[wowbagger]

TT just did a good post on how to check your charging system:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=123432.msg1400579#msg1400579

I've also used this flow chart in the past:
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

[zenocchio]

i checked the system with the electrosport flowchart and the test failed: Stator at fault. Replace stator.
all my readings were at around 42V but equal.
i then tested the new RR with the diode test option and it reads good.
it is not the field coil then.

I also tested the system with the oregon motorcycle flowchart but for some reasons the alternator passed the test, and it found the RR at fault.

[zenocchio]

Here some action pictures!

[chewbacca5000]

That short that didn't start happening until you started working by the handlebars.... Sounds like a dead short on the button  (did someone solder a blob  to make a repair?perhaps that is it.)or an open wire  in the bars.
Or have you closely checked the starter wire for breaks or pinches particularly in the case  entering/through/and exiting the chain and sprocket area?could there be some insulation missing to cause a short? Anything look black or white sparked along the way in there? Are there and rub damages to same wire where it could have come in constant contact with the battery box? Did you switch this wire when you changed over to the new harness?Have you extended it ? Soldered it? Sealed and taped it in a wire loom?
If you were to put a remote starer button or switch and bypass the handle bar button, does it still blow fuses? or does it all operate properly?

Thanks for your input mate!
The wiring is all sealed and taped, so that is off the list. I will check the ones coming from the case. But first I will try to bypass the starter switch, I have a three functions switch like this one that I use for blinkers horn and starter.
No wiring through the handlebars everything is exposed for now.

Were did you get this handle bar switch.  I really like how compact it is and the chrome is nice too.

[zenocchio]

That short that didn't start happening until you started working by the handlebars.... Sounds like a dead short on the button  (did someone solder a blob  to make a repair?perhaps that is it.)or an open wire  in the bars.
Or have you closely checked the starter wire for breaks or pinches particularly in the case  entering/through/and exiting the chain and sprocket area?could there be some insulation missing to cause a short? Anything look black or white sparked along the way in there? Are there and rub damages to same wire where it could have come in constant contact with the battery box? Did you switch this wire when you changed over to the new harness?Have you extended it ? Soldered it? Sealed and taped it in a wire loom?
If you were to put a remote starer button or switch and bypass the handle bar button, does it still blow fuses? or does it all operate properly?

Thanks for your input mate!
The wiring is all sealed and taped, so that is off the list. I will check the ones coming from the case. But first I will try to bypass the starter switch, I have a three functions switch like this one that I use for blinkers horn and starter.
No wiring through the handlebars everything is exposed for now.

Were did you get this handle bar switch.  I really like how compact it is and the chrome is nice too.

I have not being able to have it working on mine, it was shorting at the handle bars. It came with a bunch of spares when I got the bike

[zenocchio]

one step forward and two steps back.
I replaced the alternator, with a used one, and the system is not charging still.
I performed the test again and found that the RR is faulty!
i did the following:
Stop the engine. Switch the multimeter to DC-Voltage (DCV or Vdc). With the block-connector disconnected
as above, connect the multimeter-leads up to the two extra wires in this connector (apart from the three
YELLOW wires), this in the connector-block emerging from the wiring-loom, not the other side going to the
generator. If there's only one extra wire, connect it to one multimeter-lead and connect the other multimeterlead to the engine-casing. When you switch on the ignition, Check the reading on the display.

I got about 0.4V instead of 12V = RR at fault. Replace it with a new one.

that sucks because it was a new unit.
is there a way to repair it, what could have fried it?