Topic: Duplicolor engine painting??????????

[mario medeiros]

Do i need to use the engine primer 1st? my cases were glass beaded clean so i removed all the old paint.The can says to use a primer for bare metal but it is not metal it is alum?Also i was told can # 1615 is the best match to org.?Thanks

[thep1pe]

I used etching primer for mine.

[rb550four]

I use duplicolor 500 degree paint on all my engines without primer. A bead blast should have given a good clean surface with plenty of tooth to stick. Would you be using a 500 degree primer? There are 2 aluminum colors , aluminum  and cast aluminum. I am a fan of the second.
  This stuff is real easy to run when applied so do light coats( I use a hairdryer to set it and stop possible runs), Then when covered well with light coats, do a uniform overall coat ( continue using hairdryer) .
  I use VHT for the pipes , but the flat black doesn't stick or ware as well as other colors.

[MRieck]

I use duplicolor 500 degree paint on all my engines without primer. A bead blast should have given a good clean surface with plenty of tooth to stick. Would you be using a 500 degree primer? There are 2 aluminum colors , aluminum  and cast aluminum. I am a fan of the second.
  This stuff is real easy to run when applied so do light coats( I use a hairdryer to set it and stop possible runs), Then when covered well with light coats, do a uniform overall coat ( continue using hairdryer) .
  I use VHT for the pipes , but the flat black doesn't stick or ware as well as other colors.

Exactly what i have done for many years and many engines. It is the ticket. Why put multiple layers of paint on? Bead blasting will give the "tooth" you need. Just put bolts in all the threaded holes and clean the crap out of them after the blasting. Every bit of advice said by the original poster is well said.

[Rigid]

I would add that i did my float bowls with the vht, baked at 200 for an hour.  Had a fuel leak and it did not lift or run the paint.  Rare for rattle can.

[MRieck]

 Heat treating is key. I'd also add that using solvent (at least lacquer thinner) as a wipe down and a tac clothe go far too. Also......put the spray can in hot water for 15 minutes prior to painting

[mario medeiros]

Can not seem to fine the engine primer,my local paint shop told me to use one step auto etch primer so i bought it but no where does it say for motors or for heat?Before i spray anyone know if i should use this or keep looking for a engine primer?Thanks

[cabrala]

Can not seem to fine the engine primer,my local paint shop told me to use one step auto etch primer so i bought it but no where does it say for motors or for heat?Before i spray anyone know if i should use this or keep looking for a engine primer?Thanks

So you've decided primer is the way to go?

Personally, I'd go with Mike and rb550's methods listed above. Apply lacquer thinner or some "Prep & Etch" solvent to the bike with a brush or paper tower/rag. Use the tac cloth after applying the solvent solution to remove any pieces of left-behind paper towel/rag or brush. This will give you a good surface to adhere paint onto.

To answer your question on the primer you found, I would be a bit worried if it isn't for high heat application. I am no expert but I do know that your final coat is only as good as your prep work, so if the primer can't withstand conditions, will the paint? I'll let others who know more chime in...