Topic: VHT caliper paint, not expected result any input ?

[SohRon]

Por-15 is pretty much bullet proof. I use it for almost everything!





I sandblast most of my stuff and don't use a primer. Neither did Honda; all paint went on after a metal prep bath with no primer in between.

[Viktor.J]

Well seems like I shouldn't used a primer (as they recomended)....
Anyhow I emailed VHT and got this answer.

"Viktor,

Thank you for contacting VHT. We appreciate your inquiry.

You surface preparation and application processes are perfect. What is causing this issue is the way that you are bake curing the products together. A simple one time cure for 1 hour at 100 degrees C is not enough to bake cure the FlameProof Primer underneath the Caliper Paint. The Caliper Paint label directions do not include instructions if the FlameProof Primer was used previously and I apologize for that. Please bake cure the products in the following way:

1. Bake at 250F/121C for 30 minutes and let cool for 30 minutes
2. Bake at 400F/204C for 30 minutes and lets cool for 30 minutes
3. Bake at 600F/315C for 30 minutes and then let cool for 30 minutes

Bake curing the products together in this manner will yield pleasing results.

I hope you found this information helpful. Please email me back if you have any additional questions.

Regards,

Jill
VHT Product Support


My reply

"Hi Jill !

I understand that to provide the best result with the FlameProof primer I should cure as you mentioned. BUT since the cliper paint curing temperature ONLY is 100C I didn't "dare" to cure them at higher temperatures.
But after a few days and still not god result I cured them in 200C (as step two says) this is when the bubble appered.
you can see pictures here, http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=118652.0

To be clear, 7 days between primer and color coat, I cured them together at 100C @ 1 hr. then cured at 200C @ 15 min ( had to pull out due to boubles)

As I undrsatand your answer I did as you suggest ?

Viktor"

[MRieck]

600F.....you ain't going to be doing that in a household range.

[RAFster122s]

I would hope you wouldn't bake an aluminum caliper to 600F  You would need an industrial furnace or kiln to reach that temp wouldn't you?
How stable is aluminum that has been heated to that temperature?   I guess it melts at a very high temperature. (Aluminum melts at 1220.666 °F)

[Viktor.J]

Actually my kitchen oven goes up to 275C =527 F

[dave500]

this should be moved to one of those reality tv cooking shows by now i think?once you can push a fork into your caliper you can season it or some #$%*?let it sit two minutes then serve.

[Viktor.J]

Hahaha, wonder which part of the bikes that's the most tastefull bet it's not the caliper :S

Anyway I got a final answer from VHT, dont really help me now but maybe someone in the future.

"Viktor,

Thank you for contacting VHT. We appreciate your response.

I do apologize for my delayed response. I was unexpectedly out of the office.

As for my last response, I did not add a key component to the steps of advise I gave and that was to bake cure the FlameProof Primer prior to applying and curing the Caliper Paint. I am sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused you.

I hope you found this information helpful. Please email me back if you have any additional questions.

Regards,

Jill
VHT Product Support"


So what it seems like is that the primer hasn't dried yet. so yesterday I tried to bake it in the oven again for like 100C but for longer time, like 2 hours. And it actually looks a little better, the bubbles have sunken down. I will put all the parts in it for a few hours more and reply a final answer !

Thanks for the feedback guys !

[JamesH]

Por-15 is pretty much bullet proof. I use it for almost everything!





I sandblast most of my stuff and don't use a primer. Neither did Honda; all paint went on after a metal prep bath with no primer in between.

Ron - how did you apply the Por-15 in this case? Can you buy it in rattle cans?

[Lostboy Steve]

Here's the deal. The vht or rustoleum caliper paints come out very thick. The key is to do multiple extremely light coats, then let it sit for a good solid 24hours. Spray it in an area free from dust and as always the prep work will directly reflect your finished product. I never bake mine after they dry and they last indefinitely. Although, I dont spray them with brake fluid or cleaner. I usually attach a small hose to the bleeder to make sure it doesnt become a mess.

[mono]

Here's the deal. The vht or rustoleum caliper paints come out very thick. The key is to do multiple extremely light coats, then let it sit for a good solid 24hours. Spray it in an area free from dust and as always the prep work will directly reflect your finished product. I never bake mine after they dry and they last indefinitely. Although, I dont spray them with brake fluid or cleaner. I usually attach a small hose to the bleeder to make sure it doesnt become a mess.

+1 on the bleeder --- I was sloppy and my DOT3 fluid eventually ate my VHT caliper paint (not the high-heat stuff, just the regular). 

[mono]

Por-15 is pretty much bullet proof. I use it for almost everything!





I sandblast most of my stuff and don't use a primer. Neither did Honda; all paint went on after a metal prep bath with no primer in between.

nice lookin' parts, Ron -- I have had great results with POR15 on a car project.  Sandblasting+prepping etch is probably a key to the success of your parts.  I've found that the POR does not like to stick to a smooth finish as well as a sandblasted finish, or even steel with some flash rust on it.

I'm wondering the same thing as far as application - is this sprayed on?  I used foam brushes on the car project (just chassis parts) and the POR seemed to level out really well on its own.  however it does go on real thick with a brush and we had some problems with it dripping.  judging by the looks of your pieces, I'm guessing you sprayed.

[tomk1960]

I give any of you that paint a lot of credit.  Sometimes it's black magic and even the smallest amount of oil or contamination on a stripped part will ruin your day.  I stopped painting a few years ago and started powder coating my own parts and will never go back.  As long as the metal is properly blasted and prepped, you can't go wrong and the finish is tough.  Also, as someone mentioned earlier, use DOT5 fluid and you won't have to worry about the finish getting damaged if you get any drips on it.  Whenever I rebuild brake systems, I thoroughly flush the lines and switch to DOT5.

Here's a CB450 caliper done in super mirror black:



and a GL1000 rear caliper done in sheen black:



No runs, no sags, no issues.  Once they cool off after curing, they can go right back on the bike.  Just bolt and go.

If you are planning to paint and have access to a media blaster, then by all means use it.  Glass beading brake parts could be tough, however, since the paint is pretty durable.  Stripping the paint and then blasting for profile might be the better way to go.  Then wash the part thoroughly with a good metal wash and blow it dry.  If you have an old oven that you can bake it in, do so for 30 minutes at 400 degrees and that will force any residual moisture out of the pores and also burn off any oils that might remain.  Wear clean nitrile gloves while handling them prior to painting and that will keep the oil from your fingers off the clean metal.