Topic: 76 CB550F Project

[bmoren]

it doesn't look stock because its on backwards, I had to crank it down a lot to stop it from leaking, the inner O ring is just completely gone

[jude0007]

You got yourself a good bike to start with.  What is it with people in Minneapolis ripping the crap out of the wiring on 550's.  I just picked one up in decent shape except the wiring is crazy.  Tore it all out and installed new harness.

Anyways, I'm in South Minneapolis, Linden Hills area and also have a 76 550.  Let me know if I can help or bother you with questions.  Good luck!

[rb550four]

It's not just people from Minneapolis that tear up wiring harnesses, NY, MA, and PA tear them up too!
Can't see why folks think that when something attached to the electrical system fails , or they blow a fuse or a light bulb, that it must be in the wires and proceed to hack them apart. It's like no one ever heard of a test light or multi-meter. Amazing isn't it?

[bmoren]

Ok so re-did a bunch of fuel lines and stuff again, since I'm running a T to the carbs, it makes sense to replace my petcock with a single (the old one is super work out and has NO gaskets!

so here Is what I was thinking:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161102795728&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

That way I don't have to use an awkward block for the second hole coming from the petcock.

[streak09]

It's not just people from Minneapolis that tear up wiring harnesses, NY, MA, and PA tear them up too!

Add Ohio to that list too!   

Bike is looking good! So many things going on with these old bikes, but thats what the fun is all about!

[bmoren]

Ok so Its been a while since updates but here is whats happening.


I again - de-rusted the tank, this time using the apple cider vinegar method, let it sit for about a month. - got some flash rusting and I'm not sure what to do about that. I will be sandblasting bondoing and painting the tank in the next week or 2 (dark green with silver fleck is the plan)

I pulled the seat, welded on the bolts and removed the wood block the PO was using to keep the seat on. We shaped and attached new foam and I am going to go with black leather for the covering, soon to come.

I've made a google docs list of all of the stuff that I am thinking about / want to do and what I have done for the bike so far. You can look at it here:  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AqD1wQhMqO8UdEFEd3o4RHV0OU9lTUlHckZQb0t3X3c&usp=sharing

I'm still looking for a new petcock that will work, does anyone know the proper thread size? I just want to get a generic one not the Honda replacement, I've seen a few others with success on eBay but their links are all gone when I click them so I'm still in the dark there...

Sludge from the Vinegar and rust:


Drained Rust:


Tank interior post vinegar:


flash rust: (any suggestions welcome)


Pulling up the old seat:


Minimizing the rust:


Welding on the bolts for the seat attachment:


Welds:


Cutting the foam:


Spray Adhesive:


Shaping tool method (angle grinder with sanding plate turned out to work better)


Rough Shaping:


Final Seat:


On the Bike:

[jason405]

Hey man, bike looks great!

Been reading a lot about tank de rusting lately. I'm working on my first build, 78 CB550, and the tank was in pretty bad shape. Several holes I'm having a radiator shop fix then I'll get to de rusting the tank. I tried it once but then I realized I need to get the holes fixed first. It rusted back I have since read that cleaning it with phosphoric acid works best.

It eats the rust away and leaves behind a coating on the metal that prevents flash rust.

Easiest stuff to get is "Phosphoric Prep & Etch" from Home Depot. It's under $10.

I'm going to go this route after I get the holes brazed shut, then coat the inside with Caswell or KBS liner.

Give it a try. You'll need to do the same neutralizing process afterward with water and baking soda FYI.

Jason 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bmoren]

Working on the tank some more, trying to decide on the paint situation, thinking about doing a rusto hunter green, with silver metal flake covered in clear gloss.




post sanding first coat:

[bmoren]

Primed and finished the tank with POR15, 1 more coat of bondo/primer and its ready for paint!

Priming the tank - front


Priming the tank - back


Drying out the tank post POR15 Prep with a heatgun


POR15 lid was really stuck


Filling in POR15


POR15 in the hole!


Before/After POR12 #1


Before/After POR12 #2

[flatlander]

great project, and it's coming together nicely. i'm also impressed with your google docs list - very organised!

i've got a 76 550f myself. they're great bikes. mine's in pretty good shape and runs well so i take it slowly with improvements, doing them more gradually over time.

[bmoren]

Update!

Ive not finished painting the tank and making a new seat check it out!

second round bondo:



Undercoat Green:


Green Micro Flake (this does not do it justice):



Figuring out the seat pattern:



Cutting the Seat pattern:


Sewing it together:




Attaching the cover with rivets:


All done!




Up next is a fancy new wiring harness:

[Tews19]

I like the paint on the tank. Is that flake I see in it?

[bmoren]

SOS - I need some help with this wiring harness from parts n more, Things seem to all be hooked up and most things are working but I have some spots that do not match up with the original parts colors. I am getting the signals to turn on but the relay is not firing. also I am getting the rear light to come on ONLY when it it is in park mode, I know from the PO that the ignition switch is not the original so maybe that has something to do with it. If you are in the minneapolis area and are a good wiring person I would certainly toss you a couple beers/dollars to come look at my bike and help sort this thing out!  I just want to ride! this is the last thing!

thanks,
Ben

[Tews19]

I can not remember of the top of my head but I think the turn signals need to be grounded.... what colors wires are not hooked up?

[eastyork1977]

Just had this come up on two bikes last week.

You're right, the tail light Brown wire goes to the starter switch. And all green grounds should be connected. Here's the three solves that I came up with the in past.

1. Replace bulb or complete sealed tail light. If the tail isn't too dirty you can usually see if the two filaments are still good, the brake and the running tail light. I made sure both were visible before moving on.

2. Check that you've got the correct fuse in the correct slot. The tail light takes 7 AMPS fuse on its circuit.

3. If those two don't do it I'd try and correct or redo any base connection at the start switch on the frame or at the centre pilot controls. Sometimes you can get cracked ignition switches at the molex connection.

[bmoren]

OK, good news to report!

I have got the wiring all figured out from this new parts n more harness, a bunch of the colors are not matching up with the stock diagram that I have for the 550F
I will try to get a list of the color conversions here so someone else can use them in the future the save a headache! Turns out that I have bypassed the turn signal buzzer which was giving the signals hot all the time. Issue 2 was that I was missing a circuit that needed to be connected to another, again, more on the color chart soon, i need to cross reference the bike. Shortly after getting everything running and during the last step reassembly - putting on the headlight - my main 15A fuse was getting blown all the time. It was a short in the left turn signal controls from where the PO made a really bad wire solder job. Anyway, all running now, I have put on about 50 miles and seems like everything is running very smooth! I also added new riser bars on to make a little more comfortable ride. Tell me what you think of the bars on there... I'm still thinking about clubmans...

Removing old harness:


Old Harness out!


New harness in:


Workspace:


All in and clean!


As it stands (again the paint is not done justice here):

[eastyork1977]

x2 on the vinegar method. I just finished my 350 tank this way. Took two passes with the vinegar to get all the varnish and rust out but man did it work!

Did the water method as well and there are solution you can use to chase it out after.

Timing is crucial so get all your stages ready, flash rust can happen within a minute.

I used 2 stroke oil and gas to cover the inside after flushing the water and neutralized solutions out. I also overkilled it with some fogging oil on the top side just to be safe.

Best way i heard to coat the inside is just a good enamel. Apparently this was widely used in the 50s for tanks.

[Bankerdanny]

Except in the 50's gas wasn't diluted with 10% caustic ethynol. If you want to coat the inside, and if you have no leaks there is no reason to, use a proper tank liner.

[eastyork1977]

I've already confirmed this an old school british bike builder. The right kind will work.
Plus if you're getting the right kinda gas in your bike, it shouldn't have any ethanol.
Up here in Canada, 91-94 won't have ethanol. Shell gas has very little ethanol here as well.

I wouldn't use anything under 91 ever in these old girls!
Plus, you will notice a HUGE difference in performance with higher octane.
94 all the way for my 550. So what if its 17 bucks to fill my tank instead of 12.