Author Topic: Runing CR carbs on stock K6 Update:They work regardless of skepticism and now...  (Read 11078 times)

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Offline crazypj

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Re: Runing CR carbs on stock K6 Update: Dyno sheet in
« Reply #75 on: August 05, 2013, 08:54:52 AM »
Was Brendon on CB360 or his new Duc? (or was he in New York?)
Your losing a LOT of power with fuel in 10:1 range, it's probably rich enough to cause problems
Way rich can wash the oil off cylinder walls which causes excessive cylinder/ring wear
I fake being smart pretty good
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'

Offline Supermex01

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Re: Runing CR carbs on stock K6 Update: Dyno sheet in
« Reply #76 on: August 05, 2013, 11:34:37 AM »
Good point.
I should correct that issue.

This is the advice I got from Dynoman.
BTW; Very pleasant to deal with, very helpful:

Quote:
(We need to know a little more about your motor to be able to help you. Up to about 4700 RPM you are lean and you have the pilot air screw set on 3/4 turn. That tells us that you would probably need a set of 62 slow jets to start with. You should then be able to come out a little on the pilot air screw and get closer to 1 turn out. When your bike idles best around 1 turn out you know that your slow jet is correct. You may also need to raise your needles up another notch as well. After 5000 RPM the motor starts to go rich according to the graph which usually means that you need to drop the main about 5 points, however a tired motor can make the same graph. If you go to a 115 main and it does not make better power in the high RPM range  you will know that the motor is making all that is has to give. Please tell us the mileage and compression of your motor and what modifications have been done to it, as this will help us to  help you.

The 62 slow jets they are $6.50 each and the shipping is $9 for Priority air.  If you would like to  order them just PayPal $35 to:    info@dynoman.net    and we will take them to the post office in the morning.

Hope this helps a little!   Have a great weekend)

End of quote.


Offline crazypj

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Re: Runing CR carbs on stock K6 Update: Dyno sheet in
« Reply #77 on: August 05, 2013, 06:00:04 PM »
Sounds good advice, bigger pilot, smaller main jet.
Most 'tuners' tell you to get top end right then fix idle/slow speed, I've never found that to work too well on street bikes plus the mid-range can get real nasty.
 I've found it better to get top end reasonable, get bottom end right, fix mid-range then tweak main jets
 Early carbs are real simple to get right compared to later 3 jet CV
I fake being smart pretty good
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'

Offline Supermex01

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Re: Runing CR carbs on stock K6 Update: Dyno sheet in
« Reply #78 on: August 07, 2013, 07:34:47 AM »
 I'll get the jets and try again, I feel like I'm getting close.

Offline Supermex01

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Not only work just fine but its a big improvement from stock if you don't mind changing, my bike being a 76 hold little historical value compared to a sandcast model so I'm fine with the results.
The jets and needle can be changed without taking the carburetor body out in about 5 minutes and works great with pods and a 4-2-1 exhaust system.
Thanks to Hondaman and Dynoman and all the other .....man  ;)  that helped out with info and or parts.

Now I'm on the process of restoring the engine cylinder and head, cast pistons slightly bored out amongst other goodies, custom made cam chain tensioner and other goodies



Offline Supermex01

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