Topic: Fork rebuild question specific to CB500

[jamesbekman]

Hi Everyone,

So if you go to this link http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/honda-cb500-fork-rebuild.aspx its pretty straight forward.

My question is something not addressed in the technical article and is specific to the CB500 front suspension, specifically the damper rod.

There seems no good reason for removing it at all although its cited as a step that should be taken.  Can someone shed light on why it would be a good idea to pull the damper rod?

I also have posted about not being able to find replacement fork tube nuts for the CB500 as they are no longer made and the bottom of the nut screws into the top of the damper rod.... I have been able to source them from someone at dotheton.com $54 a bit pricey but hey at least its possible to get them.

Thanks,

James

[jamesbekman]

The fork tube nuts are machined.  Not NOS.

[Duanob]

The only nuts on the fork hold the wheels on.

Are you talking about the allen head bolts at the very bottom of the lowers? I had to drill one to get it off, I just went down to my local True Value Hardware and bought some SS ones in similar size and copper washers. Worked like a charm.

[LesterPiglet]

Top nuts on the tubes.

[MotorFist]

Hi Everyone,

So if you go to this link http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/honda-cb500-fork-rebuild.aspx its pretty straight forward.

My question is something not addressed in the technical article and is specific to the CB500 front suspension, specifically the damper rod.

There seems no good reason for removing it at all although its cited as a step that should be taken.  Can someone shed light on why it would be a good idea to pull the damper rod?

When I rebuilt he forks on my cb500, there was a fair amount of sludge under the damper rods after I removed them.  I would say "a reason " if not "the main reason" for pulling them is to properly clean everything.  Also the damper rods themselves are easier to clean out when removed. The allen screws on the bottom can be hard to remove as Duanbob mentioned but any job worth doing, is worth doing right

[MotorFist]

Are you talking about this nut that srews onto the damper and retains the spring?

[LesterPiglet]

I think he means part #18

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb500-four-k0-england_model14653/partslist/F08.html#results

[MotorFist]

If he is after fork caps, here is an option: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-suspension-fork-parts-chrome-honda-cb450-cb500-top-fork-nut-30123-300-000-cb450.html

[Duanob]

Top nuts on the tubes.

You mean the caps? Or the bolts as Honda refers to them.

Frankly I don't know what he's talking about at this point.

[LesterPiglet]

He might enlighten us one day.

[dave500]

also measure your springs to see how sagged they might be,this wasnt addressed during that fork tube replacement article.

[MotorFist]

Good call Dave. I replaced my springs with some racetech springs and updated my steering head bearings. It made my front and very happy :-)

[bryanj]

The very first 500 used 450 disc forks where the only thing stopping the front wheel and sliders coming off was the long rod all the way from the damper to the top nut!!

This was soon changed and a collar was welded into the bottom of the fork tube with a new style damper that bottomed on the collar instead of sliding all the way out, this type has to come out upwards and the long rod with locknut was discontinued along with the threaded hole in the top nut.

Yoou can modify a later top nut by simply drilling and tapping at the correct size (8mm I think)

[dave500]

their copper washer wasnt replaced or annealed either,you dont need to grab the damper rod with vice grips and tighten that lock nut down either,just nip it by hand and lock the top nut against it,it also wasnt explained to inspect the fork leg inside for scoring from perhaps the rusty tube going into it?4 out of 10 on that rebuild.