wiring finally completed and headlight bucket reassembled
ran into a little issue with the carb. Body number two had massive corrosion in her to the point i had to repair both the body and the drain tube. The body is repaired with JB weld (not the quick set stuff as it doesn't hold up to gasoline) but JB weld didn't seem to hold up well on the tube as the day after install she began leaking gas.
This time I pulled apart and re-cleaned, re-sanded and used Lab Metal to patch the drain tube. Fingers crossed it works this time. I'm planning on getting a new Carb #2 PDa body from another member here if she gives me any more problems but until I hear her fire up and run I don't want to pull the trigger yet.
I tried to start her yesterday, I got her to hit a time or to but not turn over. I have no exhaust on her so I wan't trying to run her, just hear her fire a few times.
I installed my new points and condenser from 4into1 but i forgot my feeler gauges at work. A standard business card is about .010 so i put it at that just for the heck of it. I also checked the timing but for some reason the whole T and F bit was too much for me to handle. I will re read the FAQ and try again once i have feeler gauges in hand.
I found that we have two dwell meters and mercury meters for carb balancing/sync at the shop. So hopefully i can get this diamond in the rough running perfect after so many years of neglect.
Fingers crossed my tank PC job and seat re-upholstery job will both be done in the next 2-3 days, both are already a week behind the ETA from the shops they are sitting at.
I'm also still waiting on the grommet for the brake stay to arrive, front inner tube, cover for AF box and the MAC 4 into 1 exhaust system.
My carb boots going from intake runners to carb are stiff as hell, really makes it a PITA to remove/re-install carbs, before i pull the trigger on some new ones has anyone ever taken a section of equal sized radiator hose and cut it down to size?
There are no markings on my boots to indicate direction or cylinder number. When i was helping a buddy set up ITB's on a B18B1 a few years back we used stock hose cut down but we used always used Crome or Hondata back then to tune...making it a little easier to dial in than about 12 jets and a needle.
