Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5

[brandEn]

I had to install spacers (washers) between the fork and caliper mounts to keep mine from binding.

[Blackfin5]

Good idea.  I can free up the calipers by bleeding off fluid so thinking I need to sand down the orange paint on the pads.  They did go in "tight" and should have known better.  No worries.

[Blackfin5]

Didn't realize how close the bracket rides above the rotor - less than 1mm.  And even though all internals are new (phenolic pistons), the pads are extra tight.  Will blow em out and sand off the orange paint to get them to slide in and out easily.  Last pic is new shop addition to compliment the rum & cokes.  It's 102° today.

[Blackfin5]

Nothing of note to report.  Waiting for new HD spacers and flange nuts for the APE studs so I can torque down the head.  Pulled the dual front calipers to "unstick" the new pads (piston bores honed).

Except.......

Thank you, Godffrey.

[iron_worker]

Awww yeeaaaahhhhh!

IW

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hells yeah!  Nice rack of CR goodness!

[Blackfin5]

Front wheel dilemma - an insignificant deviation off-center or is corrective modification necessary?

Here's the deal.  Last night in adjusting the caliper brackets on the fork mounts for the dual disc setup, I noticed that the centerline of the front wheel is not exactly centered in between the forks.  The centerline of the front wheel is almost 3mm closer to the inside of the left fork. 

I measured from the rim face on each side to the inside face of the fork case.  At first, I thought that perhaps the fork brace was applying uneven pressure upon the fork causing a deviation, so I removed it and measured again.  Nope.  Then I thought that the front axle may have been inserted from the wrong side or that the spacers were not correct.  No and no.  I measured the spacers on each side (a spacer is used in place of the speedo drive) and found everything to be correct.  When reinstalling the front wheel and axle after measuring the spacers, the axle ends fits perfectly up into the bottom fork case recesses.  I re-measured, and the front wheel is still slightly offset to the left.

Although the rear wheel is perfectly centered within the swingarm, I have not yet determined whether the centerline of the rear tire is on the frame centerline to see if there is a corresponding offset toward the left side, like the front tire.

Anyone else experience this??  Comments appreciated.

Thanks!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It is likely caused by factory lacing of the wheel with an offset biased for a single disc. See Hondaman's chapter on wheels.

[bwaller]

I don't know about all that.... It's best to have both wheels centered and aligned.

[Blackfin5]

All the posts about offsets seem limited to the 750 disc as Don suggests.  I can't determine exactly if rim is centered on hub - but it looks damn close.  I'm putting this on the back burner for a bit.  My race mechanic buddy will check on his rack with lasers.

[Blackfin5]

But I did get the dual calipers sorted out.  The right side 2nd caliper was angled from vertical so pad and disc were not parallel and binding badly.  I needed to flat file the lower bracket mount on the case and then add a washer to between the bracket and the upper 2 fork case mounts.  Adjusted so there is an .006" clearance between disc and face of inner slave pad. 

Also, Brent - adding a second caliper to the 14mm MC very much improved the feel on the lever.  No longer board like.  I am very happy with how this worked out.

[Blackfin5]

As for the forks binding, it turns out the ID of the Tarozzi brace when the halves are bolted together is smaller than the top of the fork cases.  So with the brace cranked on it was squeezing the forks at the top of the cases.  I will have to bore the brace clamps out to the OD of the cases.

[Blackfin5]

Front wheel is now centered.  One less thing to fret about.  All good except caliper bracket adjusting screws seat much differently for each side.  I first assumed this was attributable to hub faces where the discs mount are not equi-distant from centerline of the hub....with the left disc mount surface being further away from centerline.  But this does'nt seem to be the case.  Head scratcher.  I would have thought that the sliders would be perfectly symmetrical.  What else can it be?  Are longer bracket adjusting screws available?  I had to put the lock nut for the rt side on the inside of the fork case mount.  See pics.

[Slinky]

Hey man do you have a link to where you bought that seat pan? I love it!! thanks a lot

[Slinky]

Nevermind! I looked through your thread and found the answers!! Awesome bike!!

[Blackfin5]

It's been some weeks since my last post.  All head work has been brilliantly completed by Mr. MR and I have finally completed the wiring of the alternator, m-unit and Dyna 2000 with more than a few questions answered by Cal.  Rick's re-wired the stator.  Thank you, guys - very much.  You will notice there are 4 pig tails with quick connects emanating from the output side of the m-unit.  Those are for rear tail light, R & L turn signals and brake light.



I have new black leather for the seat pad, done by a local shop in San Diego.  The vinyl which came with the seat pad originally was cheap quality and very thin.  It was starting to tear along the edges just sitting. Seat is now on with confidence that the wiring underneath is correct.



With a bit up luck, the engine gets installed in the frame this weekend.  Here's the upper end.



Bike as it sits now - waiting for a new heart and 4 new lungs (the CR 26s).

[FunJimmy]

Very nice, very nice indeed.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Wow!  The seat looks so much better.  The stable is awesome.

[Blackfin5]

Thanks, Jimmy.  Your 550 was my inspiration for a frame up build.

I installed the m-blaze turn signals and used a hyper-bright LED bulb as replacement for the filament taillight bulb.  For the record, I have become negative on the m-blaze esthetics; however, I will wait to see how they look when in use in day/night conditions.  If they are super bright, they will most likely stay on the build.





I have been waiting since June for my headlight bracket to arrive from Joker Machine.  They have been lagging lately - big time.

[Blackfin5]

Cal, I like those better as well, but I like using bar end mirrors and I do not think its possible with the m-blaze bar end lights.

[Blackfin5]

Only thing is there is zero room for a bar clamp on my right side clipon bar.

[Blackfin5]

No, the Nissin MC lies tight against the bar.  I'm good with the set up - using motogadget switches - 5 push buttons.

[Blackfin5]

With frustration at a cresendo, I cancelled my Joker Machine order after several excuses and unfulfilled shipment promises.  Can someone recommend quality headlight brackets?  Need to be on the long side to accommodate a somewhat elongated dome headlight bucket.  I am not using an OEM style bucket. Thanks!

[Blackfin5]

A couple steps closer.  I ended up finding these LSL brackets through Speigel.  CNC billet.  Nice length, the look fits the build, and what I really like is the separate mounting hole for a turn signal on each side.  The brackets accomodate the 7" bucket very well.



I was able to wire up the digital gauges, turn signals and the Truck-Lite LED headlight to the output side of the m-unit and to the small idiot lights.  The wiring harness is simple and clean using the m-unit. 

[Blackfin5]

Nothing new...have a couple more pics.  I know you guys like pics.  Just more of the same...I am stalled out a bit and bored waiting on a couple small, but necessary parts like the rear brake switch, brake switch bracket, 1 amp inline fuse holder, etc; and powder coating of a few remaining parts.  But I do have all new hard faced rockers and shafts installed in cam cover and rubber pucks in head.  I am so glad all wiring is completed (except for correct Dyna 2000 wire (yellow or green) to the tack.  Thanks again, Cal).