Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 91189 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #275 on:** December 15, 2014, 02:21:27 PM »

Great event!

That body drop VW Bug is nutty.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #276 on:** December 18, 2014, 04:13:29 PM »

Errrrr!! Why is it so difficult to get 550 side cover gaskets? Ordered from 2 different places (and paid for) to only say "out of stock." No bueno. Should have next week, hopefully. I'm itching to get clutch cover on and fill the bike with break-in oil.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #277 on:** December 18, 2014, 04:25:41 PM »

That's frustrating.

Kevin: Are you going on any good rides between now and the weekend after New Year's Day? You crew has a nice stable of bikes now. How do you like the Bell Bullitt helmet?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #278 on:** December 18, 2014, 04:53:01 PM »

Don. Love the comfort and large field of vision. Doesn't vent as well as my Nitek in the summer so I just take off the visor and it's great. Good get. My 2 buddies that have them use the bubble visor and they rave about the comfort.

bwaller · « **Reply #279 on:** December 18, 2014, 06:44:23 PM »

I have several gaskets if you're stuck...let me know. I use partsfish.com (Dillon) and these guys are great. BUT the parts are OEM so either Honda supplies or not.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #280 on:** December 18, 2014, 08:07:56 PM »

Thanks, Brent. Very cool of you to offer. 4 into 1 says they are shipping. If not, I may hit you up. Thanks for the source tip - new to me.

Cheers!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #281 on:** December 19, 2014, 07:32:43 PM »

Still no cover gaskets from the man in brown. Hopefully Monday.

After work today I did manage to install the clutch assembly (after soaking new friction plates in oil overnight) and the new D.I.D. x-ring chain.

The lifter plate was torqued down to 72 in. lbs. with no issues. Barnett HD springs and plates. I made sure to mark the basket and cover pressure plate to insure proper alignment. You can also see a couple of the extra oil passage holes. I think I added 4.

The D.I.D. chain is a close fit to the case, but I think I am OK. I thought I would have plenty of room for an x-ring because I changed out to 520 pitch sprockets. It clears the case, however, I might get some rubbing with the front sprocket wobble inherent in these bikes. When hand "wobbling" in neutral with the rear wheel lifted, it did not rub. I will check for wear marks at the first oil change. I went with a 18 tooth front and a 40 tooth rear sprocket for a ratio of 2.22. Stock is 2.18. So just a tad more acceralation punch at the expense of a couple extra links due to the larger than stock sprockets. I may want to switch out to a 17 tooth front sprocket, but JT no longer manufactures them and the one I received from Sprocket Specialists does not have the "shoulder" needed to stay off the case. I will need to machine a spacer for both sides. If I do switch later to a 17 front, the ratio goes to 2.35. Ignore the rear sprocket nuts - I'm waiting for the 4 high-end pincher lock nuts to arrive.

I put on the CR26s a couple days earlier.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #282 on:** December 20, 2014, 11:24:38 AM »

Decided not to use any current aftermarket headers such as motogp, Carpy or Mac. For now, I will use Kerker headers with Cone Quiet-er Core muffler.

These are out for media blast prep and satin black ceramic coating.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #283 on:** December 20, 2014, 01:54:05 PM »

Body parts back on. Sooo close.

My punch list .... really for myself, in no particular order. Still a lot to tidy up. My goal was Jan. 1st - not likely.

DONE. Replace engine side covers w/ gaskets.
DONE. Install K & N filters.
DONE. Install breather hose.
DONE. Install brake arm rod/spring.
DONE. Find/install new petcock (my new w/ hose fitting faces aft and hits the CR26s).
DONE. Wire up start push button switch.
DONE. Purchase/install bar end mirrors.
DONE. Hook up tach wire (yellow from Dyna 2000 bundle).
DONE. Hook up oil pressure and neutral switch wires.
DONE. Install brake pedal return spring (re-zinc).
DONE. Install fuel line.
DONE. Install and crimp spark plug wires.
Kinda DONE. Program m-unit (leaving settings in default mode until bike is running).
DONE. Figure out advance setting for Dyna 2000.
Adjust setting on shocks.
DONE. Install speedo magnet.... and calibrate (not done).
DONE. Bolt up front sprocket retainer.
DONE. Connect shift lever on left rearset.
Synch carbs after start up.
Re-check valve adjustment.
Cut, solder and install throttle cables.
DONE. Cut down and connect clutch cable (too long).
Weld SS bracket mount to muffler (when received).
FAIL. Install headers upon receipt from ceramic coater. Installing instead Mac 4-1 w/ Cone 12" shorty for now.
DONE. Fill w/break in oil.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #284 on:** December 20, 2014, 03:25:06 PM »

Yes.....I think that is the plan. Better than running sensor wire down rhe fork.

Thanks.

neevo · « **Reply #285 on:** December 20, 2014, 03:30:31 PM »

Quote from: Blackfin5 on December 20, 2014, 03:25:06 PM

Yes.....I think that is the plan. Better than running sensor wire down rhe fork.

Thanks.

How would this work? Modify a bolt to be magnetic or carry a magnet?

Is it large enough to have enough of a diameter to be accurate? Wouldn't it pickup the magnet as it passed on the other side?

Thinking about how I mount mine too, so interested on how this pans out.

neevo · « **Reply #286 on:** December 20, 2014, 03:42:37 PM »

Interesting. Any pics of the sensor mount?

Sounds much neater than a wire down the forks.

neevo · « **Reply #287 on:** December 20, 2014, 03:59:19 PM »

No probs. how did you weld the sensor to the cover? Isn't it Alu?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #288 on:** December 20, 2014, 05:20:11 PM »

Good info, Cal. But are you saying the "max" distance between face of magnet and sensor can only be 4mm? If yes, I need to come up with a different sensor mounting plan. I think I can fab a "U" bracket over the top and bottom of the sprocket or inside the cover so the bottom of the U faces the magnet. Using West 404 additive to epoxy I have had good success in bonding alum pieces - but it degrades with heat. I'm a bit worried about engine heat. But the sprocket cover tends to be a cooler part of the engine.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #289 on:** December 22, 2014, 08:36:35 AM »

Ir's been so long, I can't rememer where rubber keeper seats - the larger of the 2 rubber keepers which hold alternator wires and oil sensor and neutral switch wires. Does it seat in the inner bracket which gets bolted to inside of sprocket cover? To me, there is no readily obvious place.

Anyone have a pic?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #290 on:** December 22, 2014, 05:14:20 PM »

Doh! Figured it out. Slots into the case just aft of the starter housing.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #291 on:** December 22, 2014, 06:54:31 PM »

OK, another head scratcher because I can't remember. This pic is of the inside of the 550 front sprocket cover with the inner chain guard / bracket which is attached to the cover with two 6mm bolts. One of the bolts securing the bracket holds a clip with a tongued washer. See photo below. I figure the clip position is somewhat important because it has a tongued washer to hold it in place.

But what does the clip hold? What is it's purpose? I have all the wires from the alternator and strater secured. I looked at the parts fiche but it's still a mystery to me. I guess I can take the starter and sprocket cover off one of the other 550s sitting here, but I'd rather not if one of you guys knows the answer.

Thanks!

Bootsey · « **Reply #292 on:** December 22, 2014, 07:59:42 PM »

This is a pic of my sprocket cover(albeit very dirty) at the beginning of tear down. I can only assume that the tab is there to prevent the bolt from turning, didn't seem to have any other purpose to me?

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #293 on:** December 22, 2014, 08:10:39 PM »

Bingo. Of course...and I remember now thanks to your pic... the clip catching the edge of the circle cutout.

Thanks, Bootsey!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #294 on:** December 24, 2014, 02:23:04 PM »

The Santa in brown arrived just in the nick of time. New filters (orifices seem a bit large), gaskets and miscl. parts, like case clips for alternator wires and locator dowels for engine side covers.

Merry Christmas to all.

bwaller · « **Reply #295 on:** December 24, 2014, 05:32:30 PM »

Hey quit fooling around & get out to the shop. Get your priorities straight!

Merry Christmas.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #296 on:** December 27, 2014, 09:02:46 AM »

Priorities..... Was that my conscience speaking....?

OK - Not the moment of truth, but a milestone to finally pour break-in oil into the case. Primed the oil pump too.

In coasting the bike in neutral, there is a very slight "clicking" sound coming from under the sprocket cover. The chain rubbing on the inner chain guard, I think at the top. Will check it out later on.

Cheers!

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #297 on:** December 30, 2014, 01:35:56 PM »

Today, I finished wiring everything up and connected the battery. The plan was to test the m-lock, and see whether the m-unit was able to cycle. Did I mention the moment of truth? Well, this is the first one, then next I was going to test whether the coils are firing properly before the actual start-up. I also wanted to "school" the key fob with the master key which comes with the m-lock. Ok - so I passed the master key over the RFID m-lock and.... nothing. Checked the (+) connections and the grounds. Tried again. Still nothing, so I broke out the wiring diagrams to confirm that the m-lock and m-unit are wired properly. Then, I saw it. I'm such a dope - I am using a 15A main circuit breaker (marine grade), and it was flipped to "off." Switch on, tried again and presto. The m-unit was switched on and seems to be cycling properly.

Excuse the glare, but I was able to capture part of the m-unit sequence.

Next - static set the advance on the Dyna 2000; install the suppresion plug wires; test for spark; then program the m-unit with a temporary push button. For the Dyna, I am using advance curve #4 and the rev limiter at 10,000.

With success comes new issues. I swaped out the NOS stock petcock because the outlet was hitting the #1 CR26 carb body. I went to a '77 K petcock which has an output to the backside of the petcock. I still need about another 1/8" - 1/4" of clearance even with the tank pushed max forward.

FunJimmy, I know you also had this issue. I hope you read this. What was your solution? I really do not want to shave down the rubber tank mounts and there is no 16mm x 1.5 (77 & 78 550s) pingel or adapter collar this size for a pingel. Maybe I should try to twist it sideways to clear

Another issue is where and how to mount the remote idle adjuster cable now used on the CR26 carbs. I think the left side would be best but I have'nt found an optimal mounting location yet. It is designed to simple clip on to something and kinda just hang there. Anyone care to chime in, please do.

Happy New Year - ride safely.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #298 on:** December 30, 2014, 09:06:48 PM »

Minor panic attack. Couldn't get the starter motor to turn over. Started to second guess the wiring up of the m-unit and R/R from Rick's. Cal to the rescue! I had the green/red neutral switch wire in the alternator bundle connected to the small green wire of the starter solenoid...which also has a thin red stripe. Why would they use that color wire? Anyway, it was an easy fix with the quick connects. The solenoid is now grounded and turns over.

Next comes a test to see if coils can produce a spark. Tomorrow.

It's snowing here in San Diego! Down to 1000 ft elevation. I'm at 2800. Pretty cool.....but very chilly. Brrr.

Riceman · « **Reply #299 on:** December 30, 2014, 10:05:37 PM »

Looking really good,nice wiring job.
Would a 45º fitting work on the petcock?

edit:oh wait does the screen attach to the petcock or the bulk head fitting?

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Author Topic: Danielle CB550K Build - Toyon Moto Club #5 (Read 91189 times)