Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration

[Restoration Fan]

Ron thanks, i was afraid that was the case however I hope I'm right but I think it was in neutral when I put it together. I could get it in first just sitting here, but no other gear.
BryanJ quote:-
Both shafts need to be turning to shift through the gears

Yes, I saw that quote but wasn't quite sure what he was referring to by the "both shafts".  I'm also not sure about the 500 because I don't have one.  But it makes sense to me that it would be similar, if not the same to the 750's shift linkage.  But I do know this...once we put mine back together correctly, I can shift it up and down through all of the gears.

As a reference, here's the link in our thread where we were dealing with it. 
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=141761.msg1645789#msg1645789

The key is that round piece that the shift arm connects to...the notch needs to be at the 10 o'clock position at assembly for it to be in neutral.  If you haven't put your side cover on yet, how about a photo of the shift linkage assembly?

[MickB]

RestoFan

Here's arm photos of the shift arm at 2 o'clock.

[Restoration Fan]

Well, the 500 is definitely different than the 750 in the setup there.  But there are similar components.  If yours is assembled correctly, then your bike should be in neutral in those photos.  Because that arm that's sitting in the notch at the 2 o'clock position...when the wheel on that arm slips into the notch, that's the neutral position there.

Since they're a different setup, you may be just fine.  I'll let others who actually have worked on a 500 or 550 weigh in here because maybe there's something on one of them that makes it function different than the 750.  But the purpose of that whole shift arm assembly is to rotate that wheel that has the notch in it.  Because the other side of that wheel (inside the case) is the assembly where your 3 gear forks connect to the gears and rotating that shaft locks in a different gear.  I would think that would be the same as the 750 personally and would still be slightly concerned if it isn't let me change gears.

[bryanj]

You need to turn the shaft the clutch is on and the shaft the sprocket is on for the gears to in easily, if you think about it once the bike is moving both will turn nearly all the time.

As to the clutch operating mechanism it will (ok Should) never move far enough to hit the protector , also you need to read the book carefully about fitting the mechanism. There is also a bulletin posted here somewhere about the adjustment of the mechanism and where certain marks need to be for grease to get in and for smooth operation

[MickB]

I don't know what to do now, I hope I don't have to pull the engine down.
I'll get a drive chain and see if I can turn the shafts and engage each gear.

[Restoration Fan]

I don't know what to do now, I hope I don't have to pull the engine down.
I'll get a drive chain and see if I can turn the shafts and engage each gear.

Definitely don't pull it apart based on just my recommendation because I'm basing my opinion on how a 750 works.  Wait until someone who's worked on a 500 weighs in on that matter.

[bryanj]

You dont need a chain, just a third hand.
One to turn the sprocket
one to turn the clutch shaft
one to operate the gear pedal

Its worth trying just turning the sprocket and operating the gear lever at the same time as if you get things just right it will shift----just easier turning both at same time

[MickB]

Thanks BJ, I hope it works.

BTW looking at the photo of the gear change mechanism, is it in the correct position?

[bryanj]

EVERY THING IS FITTED ok AND AT THAT POINT IS IN NEUTRAL MATE

[MickB]

Thanks BJ it's good to know as I thought it was when I put it together. I did a fair bit of research on it but I'm glad you've confirmed.

I'll take off the clutch again and double check, alignment marks? I didn't notice any.

[bryanj]

Sorry for previous reply, didn't notice till too late that my dyslexic keyboard had put caps lock on.

The marks I meant are on the sprocket cover casing and the big bit of clutch adjuster mech that shows on the outside

[MickB]

Bryan can you show on a photo?

[MickB]

My clutch rod is curved on both ends, does this matter? It's 257 mm x 8 mm.

Also how much grease goes in the clutch actuator?

[bryanj]

That suggests to me that the ball bearing in the operating mechanism has been lost at some time and the rod taken the internal shape.

With the amount of heat blueing on the end i personaly would try and find a mech and rod that have not been abused, i know they are not easy orcheap but you have put a lot of time and effort into this to ruin it with a bad clutch. it may be easier to buy the mechanism complete in a cover.

[MickB]

Thanks Bryan, the blue colour is caused by reflection (it's not blue really), the ball bearing is still in the actuator. The rounded ends -what do you think?

Anyway, I just bought this off eBay $15 in very good condition, I'd rather put one in that looks correct.

[2strokeTrush]

Sorry to see another 500 transmission issue, I had a similar problem with my 500 which sparked my 550 swap.  I know this is late in your build, but I do have a complete 500 motor if you need anything off it let me know!

[MickB]

Thanks 2stroke

[bryanj]

That bought rod looks OK but wrong way round in the seal, rounded end goes into gearbox, flat ent into operating mechanism and $15 was a steal, new ones fetch at least $60

[MickB]

New spark plugs installed today, new rubber grommets for the battery frame and high tension clips installed. Need to take off all bolts or studs in alloy where I used copper anti seize grease and clean out and use correct grease.

I'm really struggling with the wiring loom. I need to undo the controls and make sure of the colours. The hand control wiring colours are slightly different from the wiring loom.

[MickB]

Air filter arrived and installed, peeled off the clear lacquer I'd painted on the left cover, most of the shine was lost under the lacquer.  Peel off the rest of the lacquered cases tomorrow and polish.  Installed the starter cover.

Going over the clutch again to make certain all is ok. Also tomorrow, check the valve timing, points and set the tappets. I need to put a helicoil in the left end of the rocker cover as I missed it being stripped.







The differences of colour wires in the controls vs the wires in the main loom are throwing me. I presume the light green connects onto the dark green of the main loom? I'll need to get a circuit tester to determine which wire is which.

Question. Can I join the yellow wires from the coils and join them to the main loom and the same with the black wires? See the 2nd photo. 

[bryanj]

First very important thing is to remove the green wire bolted at the coils, scrape off some of your new paint then reattach the green wire. Coils shound each have a black and white wire which connect to the double connector from the loom then one should be yellow and the other blue, these connect, via the loom and connectors by the rear brake light switch, to the points---you need to sort out which is 1&4 and which is 2&3.

As to your switch wiring if you can write down all the colours from each switch, preferable along with a pic of the internals i will do my best to sort it for you----Don't forget I am in UK and work nights permanently so give me a bit of time. Also need a pic of the loom colours that will go in the headlamp shell.

The bulletin on clutch adjuster was on this link  http://www.sohc4.net/cb500-manuals/ but i can't get to it anymora

[MickB]

BJ thank you for your tips and direction, however as to your kind offer, I'm not meaning you to sort out my wiring issues (I was expecting the wiring colours to be the same as the schematic), see what I'm talking about both coils have yellow wires not a yellow and blue as you'd expect 

I'll give it a go and if I run into problems I'll give you a shout.

BTW I'd taken the paint off the frame and engine mounts, when I put the engine in the frame.



The black & white wire on the right (from the main wiring loom has a 2 plugs at the end) I presume the black wires on the negative terminals from the coil go into the b&w wire with 2 plug ends?, it makes sense the points wiring coming up to the coils blue &. Yellow.

[MickB]

BJ any comments from you are welcome.

I'm sitting here worrying about the cam timing (I think it's correct, but I want to check to make sue), I'll take off the rocket cover and double check plus I need to be certain I have the correct advance mechanism for the 500, so I'll post a picture for comment.

[MickB]

BryanJ pity about the link

http://manuals.sohc.net/CB500/CB500SB04.pdf

on the clutch adjuster bulletin not working any longer.

[MickB]

Need some help/ advice/ comments for those know this far better than I.

Is this advance mechanism correct for my 500?

Also note the little dot on top of the advance is it set in the correct position?



Timing

1. I've set the left cylinder to just on TDC

2 the cam is set to the notch half way in the notch level with the head



3 the advance is set to the mark on the engine

You'll notice The advance mechanism is not quite spot on with the notch, it's close but not exact, is this OK?

M

Will it run on this setting? Even though I've still to set the points.

Am I on the right track?

After thinking and reading I now think I know what I've done wrong.