Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145159 times)

MickB · « **Reply #675 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:20:32 AM »

Only a guess on my part, for all I know it may have been made for some other 4 cylinder bike.

As for on selling its been heated up and adjusted so many times it's not as pretty any longer.

MickB · « **Reply #676 on:** August 13, 2015, 08:01:44 PM »

Well exhaust is on, finally! I would have preferred 4:2 but I'm happy the 4:1 stainless looks good on the bike.

Finalise the wiring tomorrow, Ivan the Ace Mechanic is coming over to assist.

Tews19 · « **Reply #677 on:** August 13, 2015, 08:05:08 PM »

Oh we need a video of the sound of the bike with that exhaust!

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #678 on:** August 13, 2015, 09:05:28 PM »

Looking good Mick! Let's see a side shot of that exhaust!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #679 on:** August 13, 2015, 09:54:06 PM »

Excellent!

MickB · « **Reply #680 on:** August 13, 2015, 10:33:23 PM »

Thanks for the compliments, I must admit it does look good and appears to be very well made.

Still lots to do- WIRING, tappets, finish prep and paint tank, timing, shorten brake hose and bleed brakes. All smallish jobs so hopefully in the next few weeks.

Petrol in tank then push button.

Side view

There 3 settings for the exhaust, quiet, louder and straight through (which I'll probably use).

MickB · « **Reply #681 on:** August 14, 2015, 03:47:50 AM »

Good tip, thanks Cal

MickB · « **Reply #682 on:** August 14, 2015, 04:01:09 AM »

Black tappet covers to highlight along with cam covers and breather cover.

All black parts to be repainted as they've been off and on too many times.

Scuffed, whaaaat, just went and had a look at no1 pipe, looks ok, I can't see any scuff marks. Also after the scotch brite....

MickB · « **Reply #683 on:** August 14, 2015, 04:45:35 AM »

Yes all are going to be repainted.

MickB · « **Reply #684 on:** August 14, 2015, 09:33:28 PM »

One more job completed. The seat strap!, the strap reminds me of my school days, many and frequently by a sadistic bunch of frustrated non Christian brothers.

Question.

I think this is the problem why I have no power the the rest of the bike, the red wrap wire should be on the other solenoid post, shouldn't it?

MickB · « **Reply #685 on:** August 15, 2015, 02:34:20 PM »

Cal thanks but I don't understand your answer, looking at the photo the post on the right goes to the battery + terminal and the left to the starter, if I connect them left and right posts the starter spins.

Btw the fuse is ok.

All this is as a result of Ivan the Ace Mechanic not coming, he got caught up with a major problem on his customer's car.

I'm thinking the rest of the bike isn't getting power unless I move the red wrapped wire to the post where the battery wire is connected.

Btw I moved the red wire, still not working with the starter button, but either the tail or the brake light stays on (obviously to much tension on the switch), I turn the key and the idiot light flash on for a second. I must be on the right path if power is in the loom. I put a meter on the red wire where the ignition switch plugs in and I've got 12.97 volts at the plug.

The yellow/red from the solenoid
goes to the starter button which must be the connection between the left and right posts I presume, what's the black wire for?

Could the rectifier or regulator (tested ok prior to installation) be shot?

DH · « **Reply #686 on:** August 15, 2015, 06:49:58 PM »

Red wire= fused wire that supplies 12v. to the key switch
Black wire= Gets 12v when keyswitch is turned ON
Yel/red wire= goes to start button, where it gets grounded if the start button is pressed. This the wire that
activates the starter relay internally. when the relay is activated by this wire, it has the same effect as jumping the big terminals on the outside of the relay with a screwdriver.
Red/white wire= feeds 12v. to rectifier assy. It should always have 12v., regardless of keyswitch position, on or off.

viewing the relay as if it were a clock, and the small black wire comes out of the relay housing at the 6 o clock position, the LARGE relay terminal that connects the BATTERY + cable, red fused 12v, and red/wht going to rectifier, WILL BE ON THE RIGHT.
The STARTER CABLE mounts by itself on the LEFT.

Someone verify this please.....Ya .beat me cal

MickB · « **Reply #687 on:** August 16, 2015, 04:41:22 AM »

Thanks that makes it clearer, your explanation was ok I just don't get electrics and the jargon.

MickB · « **Reply #688 on:** August 16, 2015, 11:26:55 AM »

Thanks DH

MickB · « **Reply #689 on:** August 20, 2015, 12:56:26 AM »

Still no luck with starter, horn works on accessory, brake light on with ignition on.

This is the starter button wires, where does green/red go? Wiring diagram stayed to earth?

MickB · « **Reply #690 on:** August 20, 2015, 01:13:55 AM »

Found red wire pulled out of pin, power now to ignition.

MickB · « **Reply #691 on:** August 20, 2015, 11:17:28 PM »

Does anyone know how to wire a 550 the control switch to work with a 500? Same for the LH side.

Or, am I better getting the correct RH Control Switch?

I feel the later, but the first one'll be cheaper.

MickB · « **Reply #692 on:** August 21, 2015, 04:25:03 AM »

After looking at the 500 and 550 wiring diagrams I'll go the correct control (Z1 had one on eBay). The problem is the starter button isn't grounding and it's a bit beyond me. I can just manage connecting the correct coloured wires together.

I can put the 550 RH control (unused) on eBay.

I know I have a 550 LH control but the wiring's straight forward, indicators, horn and hi/Lo beam.

Another 1st timer mistake.

I checked the wiring loom and it is a 500 loom.

MickB · « **Reply #693 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:06:50 PM »

The key to first notch I have power to the black wire at the ignition plug, coils have power, horn works, 2nd notch no power? Is the ignition switch faulty? It's brand new.

I ground the y/r wire from the solenoid and starter doesn't turn. If I short the posts the starter turns.

MickB · « **Reply #694 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:27:53 PM »

I think I also have a 550 LH Control Switch as the colours don't match the 500 colours. However I should be able to make them work by matching up where they're supposed to go I presume?

Here's the LH Control Switch

These are wires from the LH switch.

From the right here do the LtB, Br/B, R/Br, Y and Gr/W go?

These are plugged in, the left indicator is Y/W going into Orange and I have continuity , right indicator is B/W going into blue and I have continuity.

bryanj · « **Reply #695 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:46:01 PM »

I don't get on here much any more so i will help if i can and mail me direct on blj@blj.org.uk(never reply using reply key as i have several puters and the.org address goes to all)

On the RH switch check with your mutimeter if the yellow/red and green/red connect when the button is pushed. Also id there a lights on/off on it

On the LH swith check if there is just one or two wires to the horn button and what collour wire go to the dip switch.

With that info i can get both to work with the loom you have

MickB · « **Reply #696 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:51:27 PM »

BJ thanks for chiming in, yes, lights on/ off is on the switch. Do I use the 12V or continuity?

I'm wondering if I should join the G/R wires from the push button and the clutch together?

MickB · « **Reply #697 on:** August 26, 2015, 10:53:56 PM »

Push button Y/R and G/R show continuity.

MickB · « **Reply #698 on:** August 26, 2015, 11:29:05 PM »

Just noticed the fork boots have split (must've bought cheap rubbish), I've ordered new ones and'll drop the forks out to replace the boots. Any tips on correct fitting of boots apart from holes down and seams facing E/W?

MickB · « **Reply #699 on:** August 27, 2015, 09:36:04 PM »

Cal I used a screwdriver across the solenoid posts.

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145159 times)

DH