Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145150 times)

MickB · « **Reply #725 on:** September 25, 2015, 02:58:12 AM »

Polished all the stainless bolt heads

Stainless before and after

Stainless on the left

MickB · « **Reply #726 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:41:41 PM »

Could someone please advise the ID and OD and length of #13 please. I think the OD is about 15mm.

Also are there any rubber cushions between the rabbit ears and the headlight to stop scratching of the headlight?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #727 on:** September 26, 2015, 07:55:24 PM »

Don't understand if you are referring to the fork ears as rabbit ears. The headlight housing or headlight bucket or the actual headlight?

There is a rubber cushioning washer between the headlight bucket and the fork ears. There is a member who sells neoprene washers and a points cover gasket for a few bucks.

MickB · « **Reply #728 on:** September 27, 2015, 01:34:38 AM »

Thanks Raf, the schematic doesn't show a rubber between the headlight bucket and the fork ears, but now I'll but one in.

MickB · « **Reply #729 on:** September 27, 2015, 01:36:21 AM »

someone please advise the ID and OD and length of #13 please. I think the OD is about 15mm?

Don't worry as Honda Australia have them in stock along with the headlight setting collars.

Headlight nearly finished, sand, repaint and clear.

Then finish the tappet spacing, points timing, idiot light holder, tank and side covers then press the button.

It's taken 2 years, it's been enjoyable and occasionally frustrating.

MickB · « **Reply #730 on:** September 29, 2015, 03:59:49 AM »

Installed the new Clutch Adjuster from CSMNL, very well made and fit perfectly.

MickB · « **Reply #731 on:** September 29, 2015, 04:14:50 AM »

42 pages on the iPhone and still going.

MickB · « **Reply #732 on:** September 29, 2015, 11:31:39 AM »

Still wondering about "thinnest project candidate", are you referring to my girth or the amount of pages in the build?

Next project I'm thinking of a black 1973 850 Norton.

bryanj · « **Reply #733 on:** September 29, 2015, 10:37:23 PM »

If you think this one was in any way difficult run away from the Norton screaming!!!

When they were a current bike and all parts available it was amazing how many mechanics went sick if one was booked in for work

MickB · « **Reply #734 on:** October 01, 2015, 01:40:47 AM »

Thanks Bryan for bursting the balloon. But I'm thinking there's always Colorado Norton to do the build and they'd be quicker than me.

Else and I'm seriously thinking a 1974 CB750.

I did own one (first brand new bike), lost my licence on my CB750 after being chased by the cops, they never caught me on the bike, I was over the blood alcohol limit by a factor of 4, doing 110mph up the 35 mph main road, their car couldn't catch me. Big mistake was going to a house of a mate and with 20 bikes in the front yard they took a stab in the dark I might be there, engine was pinging as it cooled down. Ruined a good day.

MickB · « **Reply #735 on:** October 01, 2015, 01:44:06 AM »

Points gaps done, tappet clearances done, painting - some success some fail.

Needs fixing

Fail

Needs redoing

MickB · « **Reply #736 on:** October 02, 2015, 12:57:49 AM »

Repainted the cam end caps, back to metal and POR Metal ready, painting both have come up great, lacquer tomorrow.

All tappet inspection caps on

Idiot light redone

Headlight in and all electrics going! Hooray, big thanks to Cal and BryanJ.

Looks like the battery needs recharging.

bryanj · « **Reply #737 on:** October 02, 2015, 03:45:39 AM »

At least YOU can control whether the lights are on or off, not like the later switches!!

MickB · « **Reply #738 on:** October 02, 2015, 03:52:21 AM »

I'm glad after sticking all the wiring in the headlight it still all goes.

Unfortunately just found both forks are leaking, my 2nd part of the restoration after the frame, don't remember putting in crush washers (schematics say special washer - I presume it's a crush).

RAFster122s · « **Reply #739 on:** October 02, 2015, 07:38:04 PM »

I hope the POR15 uou are using is the Chassis Black product and not the rust coating. The later has to be top coated to prevent UV breakdown. It isn't stable by itself.
David

MickB · « **Reply #740 on:** October 04, 2015, 11:00:20 PM »

David yep, I found that out after I did the rust coating, I then top coated with the Black Enamel and finally UV resistant clear.

MickB · « **Reply #741 on:** October 09, 2015, 01:04:30 AM »

Applied the bands for wiring loom to the frame.

Idiot light console bolted and the lights work!

Still to do, timing, clutch adjustment, correct tightening on the swinging arm and grease.

PAINT THE TANK and SIDE COVERS.

Cal now it's finally looking like a bike!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #742 on:** October 09, 2015, 04:40:59 AM »

Mick,
Looking good!
We all talk about that first start and it's certainly a momentous event. But that first time you turn the key after rewiring the bike and the proper lights start to work...that's a big event, too. It's one you won't forget.

Job well done, mate!

Ron

MickB · « **Reply #743 on:** October 09, 2015, 03:11:41 PM »

In your dreams Cal, it's nota patch on SR's build.

Stev-o · « **Reply #744 on:** October 09, 2015, 09:37:58 PM »

Looks like a bike to me, Mick! Check the routing of the clutch cable, don't think it's to go all the way to the right of the tach, between the 2 gauges might be better.

MickB · « **Reply #745 on:** October 10, 2015, 04:54:17 AM »

You're right Stevo, however it seems to fit that way better. I'll swap it over and try but it seems too long to go via the gauges.

bryanj · « **Reply #746 on:** October 10, 2015, 07:36:45 AM »

You have probably got UK style bars with US cable(longer for higher raise bars)

MickB · « **Reply #747 on:** October 10, 2015, 01:51:50 PM »

BJ you're correct the clutch cable came from the US, I bought bars here for $39 vs rechrome the genuine bars for $159. They look similar but I couldn't justify the extra.
The clutch cable would've worked on the original bars as they're wide and have a bigger rise in them which I never liked. I would have preferred flat bars but they weren't wide enough.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #748 on:** October 10, 2015, 10:06:29 PM »

Mick, I've got cb400 bars with a US length stock cable on mine and it works. I have mine run under the speedo and tach to the right side of the frame, back through the frame at the coils and then down in between the 1-2 carb intake manifold.

bryanj · « **Reply #749 on:** October 10, 2015, 11:29:54 PM »

It will be dearer but try a uk cable from dave silver if you don't like the one you have

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145150 times)